What brand of injectors should a guy get?
I've been chasing a miss in motor and it was an one owner before I got it. And they are saying they never put injectors in it . It has just over 1million on it.
I don't know it it's the problem but I'm sure they are all used up.
There are a cpl places close to me,cummins and a power train shop that sells delphi rebuilt ones that are almost 200 a piece cheaper.
I'm going to do myself don't want to do it more than once , right away anyways lol
(12-25-2016 )race7820000 Wrote: [ -> ]What brand of injectors should a guy get?
I've been chasing a miss in motor and it was an one owner before I got it. And they are saying they never put injectors in it . It has just over 1million on it.
I don't know it it's the problem but I'm sure they are all used up.
There are a cpl places close to me,cummins and a power train shop that sells delphi rebuilt ones that are almost 200 a piece cheaper.
I'm going to do myself don't want to do it more than once , right away anyways lol
Cheaper is not always better, If it was my truck and I had isx cummins, I am going directly to cummins to get my injector brand new no rebuilt ones, I rather spend the couple extra dollar just to have them brand new. This is just my opinion of what I will do.
"I am traveling man from the west to east. Always in the darkness coming to the light"
dont buy the delphi injectors - save yourself the trouble. i believe i explained this in another thread but i have experience with them, and they dont work.
I'll call cummins tomorrow, they quoted me $630 ? But never said what new ones were.
Also truck has been sitting for 2 days, I started it and noticed after touching exhaust manifold that number 1 wasent as hot as rest. number 1 was luke warm at best, then I took a digital temp gauge and noticed it was 96 degrees and the rest were around 160 give or take a cpl degrees.
The shop that did cutout test said it passed. I did the bubble test with that tool from cummins and it made a bubble on front bank but was super small , I posted a video of it a cpl months ago
I'm assuming it isn't firing?
Here is pic of what cylinder I'm calling number 1, also makes a tick or a clicking noise towards front of engine. Can hear I more on drivers side
My engine has never been abused, nor has ever suffered reflected heat damage to the injectors due to clogging exhaust components and failing DPF cans.
I changed the back 3 at 950k miles when i did my inframe just because one of them got a very large leak, made a lot of bubbles on a test and engine started to surge sometimes.
I have small bubbles on my front bank, too small to find when turning by hand. The injectors have more than a million miles on them now. The engine sometimes runs slightly rough too but truck is still breaking 8-9 mpg. I am NOT going to change them until they start to cost me money in lost fuel mileage or they start to fail enough to find when turning by hand.
My own take on it is that a perfectly smooth running engine is nice to listen to, but do they make you any more money than one with worn components? -- Usually not, unless it becomes bad enough to make the engine have unstable operation and/or starts effecting your fuel mileage in a measurable way.
For my own truck, I will change my front 3 if my fuel mileage drops and I see the bubbles easily when turning the motor by hand. Until then, I will not waste money on them.
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Slightly rough running engine can be many things. Engine running moderately rough, something should likely be done about it, and very rough running engine will definitely cost you extra money to operate. With a million+ miles on it, if it has not been in-framed yet, you should have, or have saved enough money for to inframe it, or have that established plan in place, waiting for that day it gives up the goat. It would be poor business planning not to have this in place.
Just some words of wisdom ...
If you have not done so, At 1 million miles on it,.. pulling injectors that are leaky and replacing them if needed should also be accompanied with a LOT of other tests, and pulling/replacing rod/main bearings, boroscoping the engine, and finding out really what you have, and how worn it is overall. that way you can start planning on what to do with it to restore it, or replace it. -- I.E. -- no matter what you do -- S#$#T don't last forever. - Otherwise, you are only fooling yourself. - Would I change all 6? -- Myself, probably not, unless I saw evidence or cause to do so. I would change a leaky one, but I would start to focus on the metering and timing actuators first if they are that old too. Getting an engine that old running nice and smooth again will likely require both injectors AND actuators at the very least.
I was planning on doing in frame around 1.2 if I can help it. I've had trucks go 1.5 1.6 maybe I'm just lucky ,but by them I'm adding oil every day lolol
Now I go 1 gal every 10k miles, that's how often I change the oil also. It leaks more out side and back of head than it burns though.
I thought about doing head but If I go through all that work I might as well do who thing cause once heads off its right there.
I see what your saying about injectors, why change them if you don't have to.
The actuators look to be original.
Cummins said it's in trans/rear-end and the power train shop that specializes in trans and reareads says it's in motor.
The motor sounds like it misses. It's more noticeable pulling a load or in the high range.
Definitely more noticeable between 13 and 1500
In natural is vibrates at that rpm also. When I changed clutch I started without trans and it vibrated the same so I think it's in motor myself.
Sounds like 85 gmc pickup with a 305 with a plug wire burned off pulling a loaded car trailer.
When it's loaded it's way worse to the point I back off. Oil pressure is good it's at 40 going 65mph.doesn't run hit whatsoever.
Air cooler doesn't leak.
Boost doesn't go above 36 ish
Pyro at idle shows 240 250
Going down road it's 550 to 700 depending on Hill etc. It's never been past 750
I've changed the balancer
I've done overhead
Alternator
And soon going to change waterpump as its starting to leak out the back, but only when it gets 10degrees or colder, it's the original also
I know everyone is guessing at this point, and if I don't get it figured out soon I'll come visit u!!!! I have family that lives in locust Grove !!
I was thinking about getting wedges and checking that. The motor is 550hp. But runs like 250hp. It doesn't not stick u in the Seat at all when u mash throttle
(12-25-2016 )Unilevers Wrote: [ -> ]dont buy the delphi injectors - save yourself the trouble. i believe i explained this in another thread but i have experience with them, and they dont work.
Good to know. I have a shop trying to peddle me Delphi injectors and they swear by them (of course)
On the other hand, another shop who's in Acheson said they even used to rebuild injector's and still recommend oem cat reman for me. They say they've tested every kind out there and never get good enough results, even their reman's they did in house were a cheaper alternative but not recommended.
(12-26-2016 )Brock Wrote: [ -> ] (12-25-2016 )Unilevers Wrote: [ -> ]dont buy the delphi injectors - save yourself the trouble. i believe i explained this in another thread but i have experience with them, and they dont work.
another shop who's in Acheson
Sounds like Dave's Diesel. I had them do a bunch of work on my Pete before I retired it. Starting to think parking it was the biggest mistake I ever made. It was a 1996 377 with a 5EK Cat, 18 double over. Had 2.2 million km on it when I parked it. In 9 years it only broke down once, bad enough to not at least get to a terminal, while under dispatch. The 2 Volvos have had to be rescued at least 6 times. Once with the 07 the transmission voltage doubler crapped out spiking the computer so it was stuck in high gear (was a Meritor autoshift), and about 5-6 times with the 2011 all for sensor and or aftertreatment.