Gona replace clutch brake tomorrow with two piece. Figured I would try that first. Need to buy a little time. I think it's time for clutch but it's go time right now. So any good methods to get old one piece out. I have some long skinny sawzall blades thought I would try that. I seen a drill tool. Maybe try and drill it some how. Really not wanting to torch it out. Seems kinda cave man with a torch on the transmission input shaft.
Try one of this first clutch brake spacer between the clutch brake and the transmission
(10-24-2017 )gatow900 Wrote: [ -> ]Try one of this first clutch brake spacer between the clutch brake and the transmission
Cut just enough to push it on to the shaft
Check if your clutch brake is spinning on the shaft(broken teeth). Check your master and slave cylinders for leaks, also your clutch pedal itself, I've seen a few cracked at the base plate. Do you have self adjust or not in it?
Update. I went cave man and used torch. Put a two piece Babcock clutch brake. Next time I'll try a different kind. It's working now. Probably one of the shittiest jobs a fellow could have to do. Volvo hydraulic clutch doesn't give you much room to work with.
In the future I wouldn't use a tourch as eaton strongly advises against it due to the possible weakening of the input shaft.
Update new 2250 easy pedal new input shaft surface fly wheel pilot,throughout the works. I guess the input shaft was Grooved really bad. Pilot bearing had a lot of play also. I don't know if a 2250 is the right number but that's what was on paper work. Feels real nice now. There you go all. More info.
(10-24-2017 )marek4792 Wrote: [ -> ]In the future I wouldn't use a tourch as eaton strongly advises against it due to the possible weakening of the input shaft.
An air chisel is probably best to use.
(11-25-2018 )Makmak Wrote: [ -> ]An air chisel is probably best to use.
Eaton actually recommends that you use a chisel to get it out. Which on a Volvo can be a daunting task especially with that clutch fork in the way..