10-25-2017,
If you didn't purge air properly it can cause spot overheat in the rear part of the block and head. Drain some coolant and start over to save engine.
(10-25-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: [ -> ]Ok, did the overhead, installed new CAC, put everything back together, went to start and I have coolant spraying everywhere! Coming out of the coolant bottle, and somewhere else. I shut it down, thinking WTF! Now what!
When I took the coolant bottle off to replace the CAC, I drained about three gallons of coolant out of the system to drain the bottle. I filled it up after getting everything back together and burped the motor.
I looked all over the motor, pressure tested the cooling system, nada.
Restarted the motor, purring like a kitten, the coolant is keeping its level in the bottle. Sits overnight, and pressure has built up in the system near as I can tell. Could it be something as simple as a bad radiator cap?
Now I start it today, and same thing! Spraying coolant everywhere, after sitting overnight. Restarted and all is fine...
Don't tell me a head gasket.
(10-25-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: [ -> ]...
I took the coolant bottle off to replace the CAC
...
(10-25-2017 )snailexpress Wrote: [ -> ](10-25-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: [ -> ]I have not tried with the cap off. I start the motor cold, cap on, she sprays, I shut her down, and immediately restart, no issue on the restart with cap on or off. The system itself does not seem to be building any pressure other than what would normally expect, a bit of water cavataion in the bottle. I put my hand over the coolant jug top for a few minutes, I felt no pressure on the palm of my bare hand at all.You didn't read Cummins coolant fill instruction.
What it says -
Close the bleed valve on the upper radiator pipe, or install the
pipe plug. Do *not* install the coolant pressure cap at this time
* Start the engine and allow it to reach an operating temperature of
85°C [185°F], or until the thermostats opens.
* Shut the engine off and check the coolant level. Adjust the coolant
level, as necessary.
If any drained coolant remains after filling, there is an air pocket in
the system which *must* be purged. Allow the engine to reach operating
temperature and top-off the system with coolant.
NOTE: Proper fill and deareration of the system is critical to
EGR cooler life.
(10-26-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: [ -> ]Yep, heater core... All makes sense now. Thanks Rawze, I will pull a vacuum on the system, I have the tools... And I have not driven the truck yet, she is not leaving the driveway until this is fixed. I tell ya, it does not take much to upset these trucks.
And you are correct, not all of the coolant went back in. Dumb ass mistake on my part, I should have figured this out by myself. But, that is how we learn and the reason for this site. ;-)
(10-26-2017 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ](10-26-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: [ -> ]Yep, heater core... All makes sense now. Thanks Rawze, I will pull a vacuum on the system, I have the tools... And I have not driven the truck yet, she is not leaving the driveway until this is fixed. I tell ya, it does not take much to upset these trucks.
And you are correct, not all of the coolant went back in. Dumb ass mistake on my part, I should have figured this out by myself. But, that is how we learn and the reason for this site. ;-)
I have even seen where repair shops make that mistake and kill someones engine.
Worse case scenario, you can drive it somewhere if need be with the cap loose + a rag zip-tied over the neck to hold cap in place after it pukes out some coolant and the system settles. That is, as long as it shows a few inches or more above the bottom of the bottle.
(10-26-2017 )Waterloo Wrote: [ -> ]...