01-09-2018,
Your a good man hammer although I am sure your going WTF right about now , just think of the hack job she would have got not to mention all the shi#t they would have missed just about anywhere up here .
(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote: [ -> ]First of all, I’m jealous-of the garage, equipment, knowledge, and time you have to do this. I do a lot of stuff in my residential driveway, but I stop at pulling transmissions, and that. And the truck doesn’t fit in my garage, so not much work gets done outside in the winter (Massachusetts).I here ya, that's why renting a shop is part of my business plan, it allows me to do stuff like this. As far as the time, I hadn't planned it to take this long, but life has interfered and I am taking/have taken personal time outs because of that and it is making this drag out, but that's ok because she's worth it.
(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote: [ -> ]But I just arranged to drop off my truck for the very same thing (to a good independent shop).It’s not real bad yet, but I want to catch it before it gets worse.I hate the fact that I'm a damn perfectionist! I am at the point I've had so much subpar work done, I just don't trust anybody to do a half decent job anymore so that's why I'm doing this, I wish I knew of one I could trust like you.
(01-09-2018 )the missing link Wrote: [ -> ]Your a good man hammer although I am sure your going WTF right about now , just think of the hack job she would have got not to mention all the shi#t they would have missed just about anywhere up here .Thanks buddy...WTF is the PG version of how I'm feeling. I've got lots of beer and Forty Creek if you're in the neighborhood...
(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote: [ -> ]They will do rear motor mounts, and probably rear main seal. My clutch is only two years old. I don’t plan on replacing it. Maybe replace pilot bearing and throw-out bearing. My trans functions ok. I wish I had money to go through it like you are. (825,000 miles).Rear motor mounts are removed to do this job, so replacing them only makes sense, it adds 0 seconds of labour and only costs the parts, so now is the time. The rear main seal is compromised and is also replaced as part of this job.
(01-09-2018 )Mrkentee Wrote: [ -> ]What about your oil pump? I was thinking of that, too.
Should I change the oil pump? I think I should probably do the trans also.
(01-10-2018 )Hammerhead Wrote: [ -> ]...
So I found a mystery O-ring in the oil cavity at the back of the block pushed partially into the drivers side oil rifle! Talk about feeling jitters! It's clearly been in there for quite a while as it was hardened solid. I have used Baldwin filters for several years and wonder if this is one of the O-rings from the infamous shitty batch of Fleetguard oil filters that were famously coming loose and plugging up piston cooling jet nozzles and taking out motors. I pulled an O-ring out of a Baldwin filter sitting in the waste filter bin, and sure enough I can ply it to match the inner dia of this O-ring. I have no idea what F/G uses now, but the Baldwin filter O-ring is easily twice as thick as this one, so I'm still not 100% sure, but I am 110% sure damn happy I found it when I did! There were wear marks from the machined edges of the oil rifle, and this O-ring would certainly have broken in a matter of time and I'm sure cost me a lot of sadness & money.
...
(01-10-2018 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]I have seen a lot of engines with melted pistons due to that mystery o-ring. It is a good thing you found it before it broke apart and took out a piston.
I have always used fleetguard filters because of this. They replaced the filter design where that o-ring resides into a full-on gasket with flaps to prevent this very thing.
Other manufacturers put thicker o-rings like the one you pointed out there in that filter... not sure if I trust it though, so that is why I only use the more expensive fleece-guard now.
(01-10-2018 )Ragindirt Wrote: [ -> ]Lost my clutch brake yesterday; dinged up the input shift some, and granny is getting harder to select down to low. 10 speed in truck currently, if synchronizing gear is shot or any other gears I am opting to install a 15, anybody have a name of good eaton shop in the middle of US.A 15 is good , lots of bottom gears but the top end sucks . Personally I would go with a 18 or a 13 . The 13 you can't spilt the bottom side but can the top . I would be lost without a 18 anymore .
Don't pull 100K but 5 days a week 84K+ through the flint hills.
(01-10-2018 )the missing link Wrote: [ -> ](01-10-2018 )Ragindirt Wrote: [ -> ]Lost my clutch brake yesterday; dinged up the input shift some, and granny is getting harder to select down to low. 10 speed in truck currently, if synchronizing gear is shot or any other gears I am opting to install a 15, anybody have a name of good eaton shop in the middle of US.A 15 is good , lots of bottom gears but the top end sucks . Personally I would go with a 18 or a 13 . The 13 you can't spilt the bottom side but can the top . I would be lost without a 18 anymore .
Don't pull 100K but 5 days a week 84K+ through the flint hills.
I had a 15 in a body job sand truck , great in that application because you always could have proper rpm for speed you wanted for the pto . The top side just took a little longer climbing hills .
With that being side all I have ever ran are 13/18 .
I would pull out of the yard with that 15 and jake shift a pile of gears and the guys would look out of the shop figuring I was doing 40 km/ hr and I would just be crawing , hahaha
P.s a 18 or 13 will give you a 250 rpm split a 15 on the top side is 500 rpm ... That's a big difference
(01-06-2018 )Hammerhead Wrote: [ -> ](01-06-2018 )mastergregor Wrote: [ -> ]Quick question hammerhead, what did you use to jack up the rear of the motor to take the flywheel housing off? Single jack setup or some kind of double jack contraption? Also, where did you jack it up, on the oil pan flange or some place else? Thanks in advance.
I'm at moms for the w/end, I'll post pics of who, what, where, and how on Monday for ya.
But 2 bottle jacks, oil pan removed, and on the flat flange along where the pan would mount with thin wood shims so it's not steel on steel.
Because I have them, the jacks are on 4' long hernia blocks* to built a solid foundation as I have the truck up on 5" of blocks at the rear and on 8" of Jack stands on the front to make more room and working underside more conducive for a fat bastard with short arms...and to also make enough clearance to get the tranny out from under the truck to service it.
*Hernia blocks are 10" X 12" X4' hardwood blocks I use for loads that weigh 260# each, hence the term, they'll give you one if you aren't ready for it