So I got a few good weeks after replacing the injectors, then noticed an oil leak from the rear injector cam cover.
I wouldn't think this should have contact, correct? Trying to figure out the cause - Thrust support? Gear? Both?
I'm VERY tempted to just order new Cummins liners, pistons, and a new head and be done guessing. Oil usage is a gallon @ 6k, but oil samples have been good.
(10-11-2019 )Nostalgic Wrote: [ -> ]So I got a few good weeks after replacing the injectors, then noticed an oil leak from the rear injector cam cover.
I wouldn't think this should have contact, correct? Trying to figure out the cause - Thrust support? Gear? Both?
I'm VERY tempted to just order new Cummins liners, pistons, and a new head and be done guessing. Oil usage is a gallon @ 6k, but oil samples have been good.
That plate is also the thrust retainer for the cam. It is supposed to rub on the flat area, but yours looks a bit excessive and at a slight angle. Perhaps bad machining on the head or cam areas? Or perhaps like maybe it ran dry at some point?
-- BTW: if u ever do decide to tear into it again (and have the money for the parts), I would likely be up for helping you with it next time around so that its done 100% right. Be prepared to replace the head though if u bring it here -- I don't fool around with components even if they are slightly questionable. And your right, that high oil consumption is too high for a fresh inframe.
(10-11-2019 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]That plate is also the thrust retainer for the cam. It is supposed to rub on the flat area, but yours looks a bit excessive and at a slight angle. Perhaps bad machining on the head or cam areas? Or perhaps like maybe it ran dry at some point?
-- BTW: if u ever do decide to tear into it again (and have the money for the parts), I would likely be up for helping you with it next time around so that its done 100% right. Be prepared to replace the head though if u bring it here -- I don't fool around with components even if they are slightly questionable. And your right, that high oil consumption is too high for a fresh inframe.
I replaced the gasket for now and ordered a new plate. I was hoping to replace my axle housings next before tearing into the engine if it allows me that luxury. But you know how it goes (and you have quite a few "I told you so's" to dish out).
I may take you up on the offer - I'd really love a set of experienced eyes on stuff during teardown if I can convince myself I don't really need a forklift to pull the hood (it makes it so much easier lol) or some of the comforts of home.
If I pick up a head and paint it ahead of time, 3-5 days should be doable?
Rawze has his medieval gantry crane to lift the hood...
I don't do much of the "I told u so" --- That part is on you, as a lot of people have to learn things on their own. It is not my cup of tea to linger on the past. - I figure I yell strongly enough up front that what follows is not necessary.
The fact that you have documented your journey in great detail on here, just in itself, will likely help others in their own plight by sharing your overall experience, albeit good, bad, or otherwise.
(10-11-2019 )Nostalgic Wrote: [ -> ]...
If I pick up a head and paint it ahead of time, 3-5 days should be doable?
how long it takes is up to u .. I don't do the work, I only lend an occasional hand or skill (like counter-boring or other high precision things) if necessary and keep someone from making mistakes or making bad decisions.
Next: Buying the head ahead of time is also a waste of money. - Mr. Hag can get a brand spanking new head (not reman) at damn near wholesale cost, hell of a lot cheaper than anywhere else, and its certified. He does not mark the parts price up when I am helping someone here in the driveway.
And yeah, I have an outdoor overhead crane. - Makes it easy to remove hoods, radiator, head, or anything else for that matter.
Still, if you plan heavily on 3-5 days down time,.. your better off not bringing it here. <- Sorry, but I don't do "hurry-up" engine building here. It gets done right, proper preparations, cleaning, surfacing, etc. torque wrenches and not speed guns are used here for tightening bolts + all the rest that goes with it takes place. Expect at least about 2 weeks or so minimum to be more realistic about it, I am not a repair shop by any means, nor set up as such. -- I will likely also find a dozen or so other things that needs to be done that were unforeseen too. Here is how long it took the last guy that was here...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...0#pid39390
I'd really be curious what all you find wrong if you do decide to head south to have this looked at. You've documented quite well that you built this engine to Rawze strict standards and specifications. You just decided to use some non OEM parts on some stuff.
I'd like to see if you're liners stayed at .014" and did something break on first startup? Or is something wrong with the head allowing oil to get in the cylinder. The failure analysis of your build would definitely show where an average guy making decisions can go wrong. I would definitely learn from this tear down.
I have my suspicions that it's a ring or piston issue. When I did the injectors, there was nothing I could see on the liners, but didn't have a mag light to cannibalize to get better lit pics. Overhead has been good every time I've had the cover off, and of course set when I did the injectors. Oil samples shows Soot has been 0.5% over the last 3 changes (I'm not running a bypass filter.) and I have more blowby than I should.
When I replaced the exhaust manifold, exhaust valves were dry.
One thing I have not checked is the timing - not sure why, but I never thought to pin it and drop the wedges in one of the times I had the VC off.
I really don't think the main issue is the chineazium head, but that being said, if/when it comes off, it's not going back on.
Loaded up and headed to Atlanta. Hopefully I can catch up with Yiyito, Rawze and Mr Hags and find out what all I'm buying this week...
