So i'm on the site day and night if anyone hasnt noticed learning and studying lol.
So i have a TRLO-18913A 13 spd. I made a post about doing a transmission swap or working on it my self. I'm calling around too see what its going to cost me to put in a clutch if the transmission isnt beat to all hell. Its about the same price as putting in a new clutch or a reman transmission + or - parts that need to be removed from old to new.
So in nostalgics post when he mentioned should have went with a Lipe clutch but went with a Easy pedal. What are the differences here? as far as i see they are just brands? correct me if im wrong.
So im assuming the easy pedal is a light clutch? and the lipe is a much harder clutch to work with. I am unsure as to what kind of clutch i have in the transmission right now.... I also don't know what size i need for my model transmission.
I am figuring at worst case scenario for a shop to do it at rate of $110/hr and fix some of the other issues is going to cost me 6.5k-7k. " the other issues that need taking care of, i can do and am going to do " but if it were all done in a shop im thinking 10k would be a low amount.
It has 2 big positives for the DIY'er. EASY adjustment, and a lot lighter to install.
Despite that, I went with the Easy Pedal w/VCT 2050 - 308925-25 from Petetruckparts.
Install wasn't hard, all I used was a spare input shaft, a floor jack, and a couple long 7/16 studs. It's the easiest pedal I've ever used. I would compare it more to a car or light truck, but then again, I've been running old farm equipment the last 13 years - almost anything is easier lol.
Price comparison, a Lipe was around $600-650, the Eaton was $780.
Been told to always upgrade to the higher torque rated clutch, exactly like Nostalgic has if going the easy pedal route. You should also consider who is driving the unit. Slipping clutch is cheaper than broken driveshaft or axle. Quality clutch can “forgive” mild very occasional abuse
(09-06-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote: [ -> ]Here's a video on Lipe
It has 2 big positives for the DIY'er. EASY adjustment, and a lot lighter to install.
Despite that, I went with the Easy Pedal w/VCT 2050 - 308925-25 from Petetruckparts.
Install wasn't hard, all I used was a spare input shaft, a floor jack, and a couple long 7/16 studs. It's the easiest pedal I've ever used. I would compare it more to a car or light truck, but then again, I've been running old farm equipment the last 13 years - almost anything is easier lol.
Price comparison, a Lipe was around $600-650, the Eaton was $780.
So after watching the Video and seeing what it looks like inside, I think i have Lipe clutch in it right now and..... i dislike it a bunch. I'm in a lot of city traffic and well.... i got bad knee after playing sports for 15 years " football " soccer ", tennis, basketball and 3 other various martial arts " so when i wanna give me knee a break, i cant lol... it just gives out on me lol ;(.
I'm going to go with easy pedal clutch, screw the easy adjustment when a knee is way more expensive to adjust lol.
So how many miles should a clutch last for, if its not been abused?
(09-06-2018 )redbeard Wrote: [ -> ]Been told to always upgrade to the higher torque rated clutch, exactly like Nostalgic has if going the easy pedal route. You should also consider who is driving the unit. Slipping clutch is cheaper than broken driveshaft or axle. Quality clutch can “forgive” mild very occasional abuse
I was thinking on upgrade.... cuz i cant afford to down grade only to end up shooting my self in the foot later for not upgrading. thnks bud!
Clutch time is a good time to consider:
-flywheel housing gasket
-rear main seal
-engine mounts
-transmission rebuild
-replacing your cooler
-shift tower/shifter bushings
-having driveshafts checked(wear and straightness/out of balance)
-starter
-bellcrank/rod ends or any other clutch linkage issues
-throwout bearing
-splitter in your case
-hi/low range switch on the shifter
I'm sure I'm missing a few things. I plan on having mine done all the way at that time. Just some food for thought.
How long that clutch lasts depends on a number of things, including your driving style, the lanes you run, if it was set up properly to begin with and what kind of clutch it is, weight, etc...
I've got going on 200k on mine, no problems so far. I also make a point to not do things some driver's do like start in higher gears or otherwise overuse/abuse the clutch and I creep up to lights so I don't always have to take it out of gear. I also make a point to grease it up often.
(09-06-2018 )dhirocz Wrote: [ -> ]Clutch time is a good time to consider:
-flywheel housing gasket
-rear main seal
-engine mounts
-transmission rebuild
-replacing your cooler
-shift tower/shifter bushings
-having driveshafts checked(wear and straightness/out of balance)
-starter
-bellcrank/rod ends or any other clutch linkage issues
-throwout bearing
-splitter in your case
-hi/low range switch on the shifter
I'm sure I'm missing a few things. I plan on having mine done all the way at that time. Just some food for thought.
How long that clutch lasts depends on a number of things, including your driving style, the lanes you run, if it was set up properly to begin with and what kind of clutch it is, weight, etc...
I've got going on 200k on mine, no problems so far. I also make a point to not do things some driver's do like start in higher gears or otherwise overuse/abuse the clutch and I creep up to lights so I don't always have to take it out of gear. I also make a point to grease it up often.
appreciate the list man, its something worth asking the mechanics if they checked it and how much life they have. I will make another post after i get the truck into the shop and see how things look internally.
I've got going on 200k on mine, no problems so far. I also make a point to not do things some driver's do like start in higher gears or otherwise overuse/abuse the clutch
^^^^^what he said^^^^^
Its called "FIRST" gear for a reason...Just my $0.02.