Was wondering if anyone knows the capacity on a 2011 prostar with thermistors. Think I have a bad expansion valve as it was squealing loudly and now is not cooling on that coil. The rear coil is blowing ice cubes so I know the systems working yet both high and low pressure lines are identical in temperature yet the expansion valve is cool and sweating. Going to do a evac and recharge but my capacity label is illegible.
Thanks,
Nilao
3lbs... Check your expansion valve, mine is adjustable. Mine has a brass fitting on the side with a screw, turn it counter clockwise to back it off... Should stop the squealing.
It quit squealing, and cooling lol...I backed it out..it's now out so far there are 2 threads showing...I'm sure it's toast.
(05-02-2016 )Nilao Wrote: [ -> ]It quit squealing, and cooling lol...I backed it out..it's now out so far there are 2 threads showing...I'm sure it's toast.
If you are to that point, yes, it is toast. If you have had any failures in the system where metal has been present, you will need to replace the condenser. They are not serviceable, or flushable, you will need a new one. The AC on these trucks SUCKS. And check the high pressure sensor up front by the radiator CAC, that goes bad quite often. I had the part number posted on the old site... It is gone.
yes, new compressor, condenser, and receiver/drier. Fan cycles on and off with compressor running. International quoted 179 for that little sensor...I laughed at them before I hung up.
(05-02-2016 )Nilao Wrote: [ -> ]It quit squealing, and cooling lol...I backed it out..it's now out so far there are 2 threads showing...I'm sure it's toast.
if I remember right, about 3 threads showing on that brass cap, -- and the whole valve will blow up in your face dangerously, spewing refrigerant and valve guts at high velocity all over you in one big mega-blast!!!--- Do NO SAY you weeren't warned!@!! Turning that brass piece is extremely dangerous if there is pressure in the system!> It can have more than than 350 PSI on its face on a hot summer day and that needle valve in it can shoot out like a bullet, right into your eyes!.!.
THAT BRASS CAP IS IT IS ACTUALLY NOT SUPPOSED TO BE USED AS AN ADJUSTMENT SCREW!
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I did this before out of my own sheer stupidity!@ -- And I found the cap about 40 feet away. Luckily, I was not standing in the way, but I did get my face soaked and covered in green refrigerant snot really badly.
(05-02-2016 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ] (05-02-2016 )Nilao Wrote: [ -> ]It quit squealing, and cooling lol...I backed it out..it's now out so far there are 2 threads showing...I'm sure it's toast.
if I remember right, about 3 threads showing on that brass cap, -- and the whole valve will blow up in your face dangerously, spewing refrigerant and valve guts at high velocity all over you in one big mega-blast!!!--- Do NO SAY you weeren't warned!@!! Turning that brass piece is extremely dangerous if there is pressure in the system!> It can have more than than 350 PSI on its face on a hot summer day and that needle valve in it can shoot out like a bullet, right into your eyes!.!.
THAT BRASS CAP IS IT IS ACTUALLY NOT SUPPOSED TO BE USED AS AN ADJUSTMENT SCREW!
=============
I did this before out of my own sheer stupidity!@ -- And I found the cap about 40 feet away. Luckily, I was not standing in the way, but I did get my face soaked and covered in green refrigerant snot really badly.
My AC system was squealing too, sounded like a French Horn under my hood. Is there a REAL fix for this Rawze other than turning that brass screw? I have been through this to many times to count. What causes this high pressure in the expansion valve?
What causes the fan to sometimes not cycle at idle? Is it the high pressure sensor he was talking about or something else?
I believe the high pressure switch is what is giving you problems with your fan. It is supposed to turn it on when the pressure, and resulting heat trigger it.