(02-13-2019 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ] (02-13-2019 )Mluper7 Wrote: [ -> ]...
I was told by one of our Cummins experts that when a actuator starts to go bad that's a sure sign
sound like your "experts" are possibly the typical OEM under-trained parts changers... this is what they should have told you. Starting at Item "C" in this post...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...3#pid34503
something I just discovered. There are two decent sized wires coming off my alternator that come up and over my motor with the engine harness that go to two different large connectors. I believe one is white and the other red. I found a run through spot on both and bad corrosion. Those aren't power supplies to my ECM are they?
They usually are the wires that run over to the starter for charging purposes. There will also be the wires that run the a\c compressor, a\c high pressure switch, EGR valve wires, exhaust gas pressure sensor, turbo speed sensor, coolant temp sensor, exhaust pyro sensor (if equiped) and sometimes the low coolant level sensor wires (depending on where the coolant surge tank is) they run all these wires over the engine between the front gear case and valve cover.
(02-14-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote: [ -> ]They usually are the wires that run over to the starter for charging purposes. There will also be the wires that run the a\c compressor, a\c high pressure switch, EGR valve wires, exhaust gas pressure sensor, turbo speed sensor, coolant temp sensor, exhaust pyro sensor (if equiped) and sometimes the low coolant level sensor wires (depending on where the coolant surge tank is) they run all these wires over the engine between the front gear case and valve cover.
Yeah I read the forum on checking the actuators. The wires running over the motor from the alternator to two large round plugs right by the steering shaft coming from the firewall. I'll try to get some pics uploaded. But the two wires are about the same diameter as a number 2 pencil.
Heck it finally warmed up to 21 deg F. It was down around 5 so now I'll feel a little better about working in the cold.
So far I've replaced my turbo air control valve, cleaned my intake manifold pressure sensor, Intake manifold temp sensor, exhaust pressure sensor, and my EGR temp sensor. My EGR and EGR cooler are less than a year old and still fairly clean.
I took it to a dealership today to do a cylinder cut out test, turbo and EGR test and everything checked out. When we went through to cut each injector number 4 seemed a bit week. So we did a cut out test with one injector on and went through them all. They all seemed strong and had no stuttering or stalling issues.
My engine harness is pretty ragged so I bought a new one today and I'm going to install it in the morning. Every now and then when I turn my ignition on I'll get a check engine light, and my Road Relay will tell me "Intake manifold pressure sensor circuit, service soon. Voltage Normal".
My boost issues and black smoke didn't really get bad until I cleaned all my intake sensors. Since I've done all this trouble shooting my current status is no boost when idling. I'll start driving and will have 3 lbs of boost until I get onto the highway and pick up speed.
My engine clatters and now is surging when at high idle (1200 PRM). The truck will rock and surge for as long as it's in a high idle with no boost. Black smoke is still very heavy when I shift gears and mash on it.
When I go to install my engine harness in the morning I plan to rebuild and clean my metering actuators. An other suggestions fellas?
(02-16-2019 )Mluper7 Wrote: [ -> ]...
did a cut out test with one injector on and went through them all. They all seemed strong and
...
...
An other suggestions fellas?
before you do a cut-out test, you need to adjust the overhead valves properly, then to an injector leak test,... that and only then can you do a cut-out test properly, as if you have leaky injector(s), the cut-out test will give you false results.
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...4#pid35344
(02-16-2019 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ] (02-16-2019 )Mluper7 Wrote: [ -> ]...
did a cut out test with one injector on and went through them all. They all seemed strong and
...
...
An other suggestions fellas?
before you do a cut-out test, you need to adjust the overhead valves properly, then to an injector leak test,... that and only then can you do a cut-out test properly, as if you have leaky injector(s), the cut-out test will give you false results.
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...4#pid35344
It is due for a over head.