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This is getting frustrating!!! This is what I've got now after retune, truck stays cool on the pyro until I hit that 30 lbs on the boost then it climbs to 900, that 30 lbs is the max it will do. Truck fills week on power also. I've noticed when I let the fuel tank get below that half tank mark it stays cool as in won't go over 800 deg at 30 lbs boost even climbing a hill flat footed will not hit that 900 mark until I fill the tank? The truck will not get over 30 lbs for nothing. I thought I had all leaks found but using lots of soapy water. So could I still have a air leak? Or something with fuel? I just changed all fuel lines from tanks to filter. New fuel pump, all new sensors on motor. Can timing cause a problem like this. I just saw the post about plugging motor and pressuring for leaks, I didn't know that an air compressor can also be a problem? I'm just out of ideas on what to do. Forgot to mention going down highway at solid 20 lbs boost the egt stays at 600 deg. But climbing is horrible. Thanks for any help...
who did the programming?
What kind of truck? What Rawze asked? What regions of the country are you running in? Elevations? How are you pressurizing the CAC system? Whole system inclucing exhaust? What have you checked physically on the turbo? Have you removed the actuator and made sure you have full smooth movement of the VGturbo ring?
Momaburt did the tune but were not done with it he wants me to try to remotely connect truck so he can watch it while I drive. Im in central states Missouri, Oklahoma,,ect. The truck is a 2007 KW w900, and as of pressuring I have not ever pressurized the system. I have only used soppy water. Turbo is more less new been on for 4 months now. This motor is shining with all new parts. Going to have timing checked today, just a shot?
Is there anyone in the Kansas City area that you know of that pressurizes these motors? The truck also has new head and reman cummins injectors.
https://amzn.to/2Y2exxB

Something like this or the otc version to pressurize the system and check for leaks.... if you have an air compressor already it will be cheaper or same cost as paying someone else to do it. Then you have the tool for life and can help friends.

There are also adapters you can get for the fuel tank to pressurize them and check lines for leaks if you are having fuel issues. Can end being used more down the road for other things.
(03-15-2019 )RyanC Wrote: [ -> ]...
Something like this or the otc version to pressurize the system and check for leaks.... if you have an air compressor already it will be cheaper or same cost as paying someone else to do it. Then you have the tool for life and can help friends.

There are also adapters you can get for the fuel tank to pressurize them and check lines for leaks if you are having fuel issues. Can end being used more down the road for other things.

not so good for entire engine. Those things only check CAC.
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...07#pid8307
Make an appointment with Mr Hagg in Georgia. Grab a load and head that way if you don't want to deal with it yourself. But if I were you I'd go the way RyanC and Rawze are saying. Get hands on, buy the tools and understand that big ol w9 you got. Its by far one of the easiest to get into and get your head and hands on any problems you have.
With the turbo on your engine, it can compensate for a lot of little CAC leaks. But with the compensation comes a more restricted exhaust and higher EGT's. You need to be sure you have a leak free charged air system. Pressurize the whole engine and then get your soapy water out.
Alright it’s not that I don’t want to get dirty it’s just I didn’t know what to do but I got the job done and no leaks at all in system. Got me a 4 in water line bubble and put it in exhaust of turbo and aired it up tight, used a tractor tire valve stem and put it in the intake temperature sensor hold sealed, took a 4x4 plum quick sewer line and put a 4 in floor drain plug with lots of thread tape around the threads and secured tightly with a C clamp. Aired system up didn’t hear anything aired up some more didn’t hear anything and blew the sewer Drain plug clean apart. Glad no one was standing there. So for that said no engine leaks. And as of yesterday I poped the top and checked timing just to be safe there and timing was set at 4 and 6 so good there. If i knew how I would post pics of how I got this set up for checking the whole engine for leaks. Moma wants to run insite while I’m driving this thing but my host with the computer was busy yesterday and never got it done. So my fault there. Any other ideas? Checked with what injectors was put it by pulling records and numbers matched with Cummins, did leak test on them and good, have new metering and timing actuators.
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