Hello new to the site and first time posting.
Bought the truck with 730k on it
Changed oil had a sample done on came back a little high on iron and withtrace amounts of coolant. I have not ran an overhead yet due to lack of time and shop space. However I plan on doing that when I fix some front cover gaskets and replace the damper.
I plan on doing a short service interval 5k or so to check oil/coolant consumption before I pull trigger on inframe. Truck runs fine as far as I can tell (used to cat engines) no smoke of any kind exctfor a little right at start up.
Now that there’s a little background info my question is how do I tell if I have a bad demandate
The guy I bought it from had it done from a shop who supposedly does good work. I don’t have insite but may get it if it’s required. I plan on keeping this truck for sometime so I want to keep it in good shape. I believe it was “fixed” at 610k
Also any info or recommendations on the inframe would be appreciated I plan on using all Cummins parts new head and injectors and have a solid mechanic to do it.
Sorry for long post and thanks In advance. This is a great site!
Red engines need special care and love when re-building them to get them right. Otherwise your efforts are wasted. Looks like you have a lot of reading and education on front of you to avoid problems. Here is some related reading...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...4#pid35624
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and as far as coolant goes,... before putting it on the roads, if you suspect coolant in oil, it will eat the engine up alive real fast. - Pull the oil pan off it and let it sit over night with 20-PSI on the coolant system. Take no chances with it...
(04-06-2018 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]...
- We let it sit over night with 22-PSI pressure on it and pulled the oil pan off the next morning. Low and behold, we searched and searched and there was zero signs of coolant getting into the oil. None whatsoever. We wiped everything down and spun the engine a few times over with the pan off and could not find any kind of coolant intrusion problem even though it is clear that there is a problem with the head, a gasket, liner... something.
After a couple hours of looking and wiping things down under the engine, we decided to bar the engine by hand slowly to see if we could get a better view. While turning the engine over by hand very slowly, when piston number 5 came up on a compression stroke, it started to gurgle and tiny droplets of water/coolant started to pour down the inside of the liner wall. Number 5 piston was leaking coolant out of the bottom of the piston. So far this tells us that there is a problem in the head or the head gasket.
...
ref:
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...6#pid25356
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As far as oil consumption,... almost never does the piston rings wear out first on the ISX unless it has had some kind of severe carbon packing issue. The head and/or mid-stop on the liners wears out long before the piston rings do.
It having 750k on it, the rod and main bearings are due. - Drain the oil and pull the pan off it. Perform the coolant leak test mentioned above while it is off to see if it is getting coolant in the oil while your at it. -- Being lazy and not doing the rod/main bearings at 800k is the kiss of death for the ISX, where the next thing in the bottom end that wears out will be a wrist pin, sending a piston through the block with no warning whatsoever.
Lastly, do a few oil changes at 3,000 mile intervals to flush out all the years of soot buildup in the block and engine. Neglect and not changing oil often enough to keep soot amnd deposits out is what makes them eat overhead cams up.
(03-20-2019 )Scoot5869 Wrote: [ -> ]...
my question is how do I tell if I have a bad demandate
...
Unless you know 100% for sure that it was done by someone highly recommended on this forum, ASSUME IT IS BAD --- ALWAYS, no matter how much someone says a shops work is good when it comes to de-mandate programming.
99.999% of everyone doing that kind of work are horrible at it, and especially the well known big-name places that charge big $$$.
You have a couple options...
* (my recommendation) Get the software to pull the file yourself, get your own 'inline-5' or 'inline-6' adapter, and a decent laptop. Pull the file out of it using CT, e-mail it to me and I will inspect it for you with an objective opinion.
or...
* Get with Unilevers or Mommaburt on the forum here and have one of them help you get the program pulled out of it for proper inspection.
or...
* If you are in the ATL,ga area and I am not busy, I can help you look at it directly, but I am not always avail for people to just stop by any time they like without notice.
Thanks I’ve been doin a lot of reading and watched about half the rebuild videos good stuff there thanks for that. Truck is sitting right now until I can get it back in shop. Is it possible that coolant could leak through the egr system if it’s not operational. Also what’s the best way to clean engine the soot, just run cheap oil through it till it clears up? My oil was black after I changed it. I was also thinking of installing the oil bypass filter to help keep it clean. I plan on doing 10-12k service depending on work load
Another thing I’d like to know is if the ecm has been replaced (mine says it’s a reman) would that cause my hr meter in the cab the reset, or could that be a result of programming. Meter says it’s at 3600 hr and I know that’s not true.
You said coolant and EGR system, did they remove the EGR cooler or block off the cooling function? That too could spell disaster if that was done. And is the OEM turbo still on the motor?
It’s has an oem turbo that’s been replaced and I don’t believe it’s blocked. Guy said it was Was done correctly but that’s his word. I was goin to call the shop that did it and inquire about their procedure. But I don’t have much faith in getting an answer
Well I called the shop and they were actually helpful. They said it was there own file they use not a big name and that egr was welded shut and functionality was turned off.
I’d still like to pull file and have it examined.
The insite on eBay to buy is it legit or are there ones to avoid thanks