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Full Version: Demandated and pushing soot past the puck.
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Ok so I have a 2012 CM2250 with 885k. It was properly demandated by the pros from this site about 285K ago. Which included a proper stainless steel puck after the bellows before the elbow that starts the EGR chain. I am noticing a bit of soot for the first time getting squeezed past each of the joints on the crossover pipe.??

My question: I have about 3000 miles already booked in two short loads and the DH back home before I can take it apart and see what’s happening.

Will it be ok to run like that for the next 3000 miles, or will I cause any sort of damage?? I don’t think it is getting past the block plate on the intake side. As the oil is still as clean as can be…

Thanks!
if you suspect a failure of the exhaust manifold block-plate...

if the exhaust block-plate has failed then it is a serious matter. Pieces of it are able to go thru the turbo, destroying it.
Thank you Rawze, have you seen this before?? What are the chances the plate is intact just leaking around the edges?? Maybe from soot eating at the sealing surface?? It will be a task to pull it overnight before my next load to take a peek, but if that is what needs to be done, I will stay up overnight and do it.

If I find it to be damaged can I run it without the puck on the exhaust side and just the block plate on the intake side until I get home?
On the programming for Africa G on the 2250, is the EGR valve commanded to stay shut?
[attachment=8385][attachment=8384]Well I pulled the EGR tract apart on both sides of the motor. The puck on the exhaust manifold side and the block plate on the intake side both look fine. The puck had a few hard soot deposits around the edges so I cleaned it up really good and reinstalled everything.

Now, i don’t know where the soot is coming from. I feel there must be an exhaust leak somewhere on the motor that is getting blown around while driving and using the engine fan and it had just collected on those crossover tube joints??

Anyhow, I feel a lot better about it now and I will pressure test for exhaust leaks when I get back home.
(05-02-2022 )JMBT Wrote: [ -> ]Well I pulled the EGR tract apart on both sides of the motor. The puck on the exhaust manifold side and the block plate on the intake side both look fine. The puck had a few hard soot deposits around the edges so I cleaned it up really good and reinstalled everything.

Now, i don’t know where the soot is coming from. I feel there must be an exhaust leak somewhere on the motor that is getting blown around while driving and using the engine fan and it had just collected on those crossover tube joints??

Anyhow, I feel a lot better about it now and I will pressure test for exhaust leaks when I get back home.

at least you know its ok to drive. that is the most important thing.

when you re-install that "hockey-puck" .. make sure you remove the metal gasket for that joint that is normally there. - It has been found that sometimes, when the gasket is still present in the joint.. it holds it apart just enough that it does not clamp the "hockey-puck" very tight. It either leaks.. or the puck vibrates and eventually has a chance for the edges of it to break off. Without the gasket in the joint, the puck itself will seal the joint.. and be held much tighter. - just letting you know.
Thank you for the info Rawze. I will pull it off again after todays little load and get the gasket off.
Here is another alternative to the exhaust manifold block-plates...

Someone gave me this link not too long ago, thought is would be usefull for others to know it exists. Not advertising for them.. just showing that something like this is out there...

[attachment=8419]
https://michiganperformance.com/products...70-new-isx



Tags:
exhaust bung, manifold bung, manifold adapter, delete adapter, delete kit, ISX manifold front piece
(05-31-2022 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]Here is another alternative to the exhaust manifold block-plates...

Someone gave me this link not too long ago, thought is would be usefull for others to know it exists. Not advertising for them.. just showing that something like this is out there...


https://michiganperformance.com/products...70-new-isx

2 out of two that I got were garbage with a loose, sloppy fit. I drilled one of the standouts on the center section and tapped for a M12 bubble flare instead.
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