Rawze.com: Rawze's ISX Technical Discussion and more

Here is what I use...

(when doing only the enigne itself): For the Doser pipe,.. I remove the pipe that goes down towards the DPF,.. Then I stuff this inside, and inflate it to 35-PSI.

https://amzn.to/2EdGuLn

For the intake, I remove the air filter and stuff one of these (depends on size of pipe) into the pipe, inflating it to 35-PSI ...

https://amzn.to/2JCbxEe (4 to 6 inch intake pipes)

or...

https://amzn.to/2JE1EWq (8 inch intake pipes / bigger KW's etc.).

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I use a bicycle pump to inflate them.

After I plug the entire engine,.. I remove the turbo inlet temp sensor and have an adapter I made to put about 10-20 PSI of air (with a really good regulator and pressure gauge).


I listen for leaks (it needs to be fairly quiet around the truck),.. and use soapy water on every pipe and gasket, the CAC, and a lot of other components too. It is extremely effective in finding fuel mileage loss and boost leak problems... Even if they are minor.

I also use this with my EVAP machine sometimes and that is very effective too.

You would be surprised at the places that engines will leak, such as a bad air compressor head leaking boost into the crank case, etc. -- I even found a bad EGR cooler once this way that was putting pressure into the coolant system.

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I have always been able to find leaks with the tools I mentioned above, but in your case though,.. you might want to have something made that will allow for even higher pressures to be used.

I also own an EVAP machine. This is a good compliment to being able to plug off the whole engine and/or its exhaust system too and find leaks ...
here is the one I have: https://amzn.to/3iW1e1D

(10-07-2016 )VNL670 Wrote: [ -> ]

(10-07-2016 )snailexpress Wrote: [ -> ]Check the air compressor intake connection to the intake manifold. There is behind air compressor head piece of rubber between head and pipe. If clamp is loose or rubber is bad it will do what you have.

Are you referring to the hose with the red arrow or yellow arrow or both?

Yellow one. Look where hose connected to the air compressor head.

(10-08-2016 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]Here is what I use...

For the Doser pipe,.. I remove the pipe that goes down towards the DPF,.. Then I stuff this inside, and inflate it to 35-PSI.

http://amzn.com/B000BQN6OK

For the intake, I remove the air filter and stuff one of these (depends on size of pipe) into the pipe, inflating it to 35-PSI ...

http://amzn.com/B0038QGLVU (4 to 6 inch intake pipes)


http://amzn.com/B0038QJ25W (8 inch intake pipes / bigger KW's etc.).

Thanks I was looking at those, I wanted to confirm they were the right thing before I ordered them...I can't wait to see what I may find.

I would unplug egr valve or block the intake would be a better way. I think that the egr is blowing open or something. This would be my first check for this problem for sure. Not leave it this way but for test purpose. The delta p could be reading wrong and causing the egr to do the wrong thing.

(10-08-2016 )Rawze Wrote: [ -> ]Here is what I use...

For the Doser pipe,.. I remove the pipe that goes down towards the DPF,.. Then I stuff this inside, and inflate it to 35-PSI.

http://amzn.com/B000BQN6OK

For the intake, I remove the air filter and stuff one of these (depends on size of pipe) into the pipe, inflating it to 35-PSI ...

http://amzn.com/B0038QGLVU (4 to 6 inch intake pipes)

or...

http://amzn.com/B0038QJ25W (8 inch intake pipes / bigger KW's etc.).

======

I use a bicycle pump to inflate them.

After I plug the entire engine,.. I remove the turbo inlet temp sensor and have an adapter I made to put about 10-20 PSI of air (with a really good regulator and pressure gauge).


I listen for leaks (it needs to be fairly quiet around the truck),.. and use soapy water on every pipe and gasket, the CAC, and a lot of other components too. It is extremely effective in finding fuel mileage loss and boost leak problems... Even if they are minor.

I also use this with my EVAP machine sometimes and that is very effective too.

You would be surprised at the places that engines will leak, such as a bad air compressor head leaking boost into the crank case, etc. -- I even found a bad EGR cooler once this way that was putting pressure into the coolant system.

======

I have always been able to find leaks with the tools I mentioned above, but in your case though,.. you might want to have something made that will allow for even higher pressures to be used.

Tags:

pipe plugs, boost leaks, pressurize engine, pressurize entire engine, engine testing

Thanks Rawze for the info. I have found this online http://otrperformance.com/product/volvo-...tester-xl/
Let me know if you think this will do the trick. Oh and I wanted to mention that I only have EGR (No DPF Thank god).

(10-08-2016 )snailexpress Wrote: [ -> ]

(10-07-2016 )VNL670 Wrote: [ -> ]

(10-07-2016 )snailexpress Wrote: [ -> ]Check the air compressor intake connection to the intake manifold. There is behind air compressor head piece of rubber between head and pipe. If clamp is loose or rubber is bad it will do what you have.

Are you referring to the hose with the red arrow or yellow arrow or both?

Yellow one. Look where hose connected to the air compressor head.

Took that hose out and pressure tested it by it's self and it was good. It was worth a try.

Here is the update on the fan problem. We applied direct pressure (110 psi) to the fan directly, using a regular tire air valve with a hose clamp over the line going to the fan, but unfortunately it did not disengage. So we concluded that the fan clutch is shot!

(10-08-2016 )gearhead Wrote: [ -> ]I would unplug egr valve or block the intake would be a better way. I think that the egr is blowing open or something. This would be my first check for this problem for sure. Not leave it this way but for test purpose. The delta p could be reading wrong and causing the egr to do the wrong thing.

I agree with gearhead completely.
Logical testing order;
1 CAC
2 EGR circuit
3 air compressor
These are the most likely and easiest to test without the aforementioned plugs...
You seem to have eliminated #3. I say "seam to" because it wasn't tested "in situ", so you have eliminated the plumbing but not the compressor itself.
You're convinced it's not #1, but test it anyway.

(10-08-2016 )VNL670 Wrote: [ -> ]Here is the update on the fan problem. We applied direct pressure (110 psi) to the fan directly, using a regular tire air valve with a hose clamp over the line going to the fan, but unfortunately it did not disengage. So we concluded that the fan clutch is shot!

My fan clutch will stick if it sits for several days after a rain. You could apply air and smackmit with a hammer. Works on mine every time.