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+--- Thread: Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from isx15 Engines (/showthread.php?tid=3221)
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RE: Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from isx15 Engines - Brock - 06-16-2018
To flush the coolant system I use dish soap and water. To flush the oil, I think all you can do is blow the oil galleys out as best you can.
You can remove the oil cooler if your feeling froggy but I think that may be just overkill, I'd take a couple ports off the oil cooler and another on the intake side and blow air through them while your engines tore right down.
The amount of coolant left in there would be a couple tablespoons mixed with the fresh 40 litres of oil is nothing....... plus your bearings will all be coated with assembly line to help for the start up..... for good measure, on your first fire up I would drain the oil after a couple minutes of running.
This is opinion of a driver and not a engine builder so don't take it as the worst of God, hopefully one of the wise men will pipe in here.
RE: Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from isx15 Engines - Rawze - 06-17-2018
I just pre-lube the engine after assembly for good measure. I pump all 11+ gallons of oil in using this pump...
https://amzn.to/2GSenSy
I remove the plug and valve at position #2 in this post and install a garden hose fitting ...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=108&pid=873#pid873
I also turn on the key-switch in the dash and watch for oil pressure while doing so.
RE: Procedure for Cleaning Glycol from isx15 Engines - Waterloo - 06-17-2018
(06-16-2018 )same101us Wrote: I am still tearing it down. Engine was rebuilt 2 months before it dropped a valve. I am planning on just replacing the cracked liner, piston, injector and the head.
That seems odd after a fresh in frame for all of that to happen. Unless you got the Waterloo treatment. Did they use a reman head or just stick the old one back on? How about the parts? OEM or some aftermarket outfit? WAS THE BLOCK MACHINED?
As far as your plan, you are just playing with fire. You will be back in the same position your are in now in short order. I asked Mr Hagg about this plan when at his shop, as this seems to be pretty common, just replace a piston and liner along with the head. These motors fail soon after, usually within a few months, if not sooner. Total in frame, machine the block and new head, he will not entertain the thought of what you are proposing on doing.
Just on a side note, Rawze had to head over to a concrete outfit to look at a truck. I tagged along... They had a Fitzgerald Detroit Series 60 motor on a stand in the shop. These guys bought a lot of Fitzgerald tractors for obvious reasons. Well, it seems that Fitzgerald has two motor options, one with a Detroit reman block and the other with aftermarket in house built by Fitzgerald motors.
Well, the in house aftermarket stuff was good for around 200,000 miles according to this shop we were visiting. The mechanic said these motors failed in various spots internally from the poor quality aftermarket parts, big name aftermarket parts supplier. They have enough of these trucks in their fleet to verify this. They have hundreds of these trucks. 200,000 miles was the magic number, they in frame these motors in their own shops, so I think they know what they are speaking of.
In other words, I wonder what was done to your motor?