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RE: 2010 Peterbilt 387 HELP - Rawze - 12-17-2019
If those are origional miles then that engine is done .... DO NOT DRIVE IT!!!! --- IT IS A TICKING TIMB BOMB WAITING TO SEND A PISTON THROUGHT THE BLOCK WITH ZERO WARNING!!! --- The wrist pin bushings are done for at that mileage if they are still original and especially so if the rod/mains were not done at 800k like they were supposed to be.
START BY having it inframed!!!!! --- Either take it to Mr. hags so that it can be done right,.. or do it yourself and follow the recommendations of this forum on how to do it properly + make it stronger, more reliable, or you will regret the hell out of it!
RE: 2010 Peterbilt 387 HELP - Sedrick - 12-17-2019
(12-17-2019 )Rawze Wrote: If those are origional miles then that engine is done .... DO NOT DRIVE IT!!!! --- IT IS A TICKING TIMB BOMB WAITING TO SEND A PISTON THROUGHT THE BLOCK WITH ZERO WARNING!!! --- The wrist pin bushings are done for at that mileage if they are still original and especially so if the rod/mains were not done at 800k like they were supposed to be.
START BY having it inframed!!!!! --- Either take it to Mr. hags so that it can be done right,.. or do it yourself and follow the recommendations of this forum on how to do it properly + make it stronger, more reliable, or you will regret the hell out of it!
Who is Mr. Hags ?
Is there anyway to tell if an inframe has been done ?
RE: 2010 Peterbilt 387 HELP - tree98 - 12-18-2019
Mr hag
Haggai Automotive And Diesel Repair
https://www.yelp.com/biz/haggai-automotive-and-diesel-repair-griffin?utm_source=ashare&utm_medium=status_quo_share&utm_campaign=status_quo_sheet&ref=yelp-android
Even if an inframe has been done, odds are greatly against you that it was done correctly.
RE: 2010 Peterbilt 387 HELP - Rawze - 12-18-2019
(12-17-2019 )Sedrick Wrote:(12-17-2019 )Rawze Wrote: If those are origional miles then that engine is done .... DO NOT DRIVE IT!!!! --- IT IS A TICKING TIMB BOMB WAITING TO SEND A PISTON THROUGHT THE BLOCK WITH ZERO WARNING!!! --- The wrist pin bushings are done for at that mileage if they are still original and especially so if the rod/mains were not done at 800k like they were supposed to be.
START BY having it inframed!!!!! --- Either take it to Mr. hags so that it can be done right,.. or do it yourself and follow the recommendations of this forum on how to do it properly + make it stronger, more reliable, or you will regret the hell out of it!
Who is Mr. Hags ?
Is there anyway to tell if an inframe has been done ?
I know it sounds like i am panicking... because i am...
I have seen at least a dozen people over the last several years drive theirt ISX -- well past a million miles,.. thinking to themselves --- I can get a few more miles out of it...it is running great... smooth, no vibration... everything good... nothing wrong.
-- i make that warning to them.. and they don;t listen to it, they say i am just being a bit paranoid....
then they call me about 1/2 year later or sometimes less.... and say they regret the hell out of not listening to this advice... while they are on the side of the road, and there is a window in the block that happened without any warning or signs of impending doom whatsoever.
--that is what the ISX does when the rest of the engine makes it that far, and it has been well cared for and get up in the 1.2-1.4 million mile range without an inframe+wrist pin bushings.
-- its just a very predictable "here is what your failure is going to be at that mileage and nothing touched on its insides" and one of those "Well, You were warned, what did you expect" kinda thing at that engine age.
-- Hopefully, you find out that the rod and main bearings were done at 800k miles or os... hopefully you find out that it had an inframe and that it possibly was done right,. but the "doing it right" is the biggest highly doubtful, too many people don't understand this engine to make them right on an inframe. this is especially true with the OEM and Stealers%it network of rip-off mechanics out there.
RE: 2010 Peterbilt 387 HELP - adjuliman - 01-03-2020
So best thing to do is get new rods at overhaul time?
RE: 2010 Peterbilt 387 HELP - Waterloo - 01-03-2020
(01-03-2020 )adjuliman Wrote: So best thing to do is get new rods at overhaul time?
Here you go, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OfPxx9vEoQU
That is Jerry, (Mr Hagg) and Rawze is filming...
In frame the motor, take it to Mr Hagg or do it yourself, do not trust a shop to do this properly, they rarely ever do. I am a testament to that, and there are more than a few of us here. My FIRST in frame, licensed and certified Cummins shop, she made it roughly 100,000 miles, the motor was shot due to piss poor workmanship and just plain old laziness. My $38,000 in frame made it 70,000 miles before showing symptoms of a fretted liner, which took out the head. I played with it for a bit, not wanting to admit my mistake, I nursed her another 30,000 miles, and then there was no denying... $38,000 got me 100,000 miles and a drive to Atlanta GA with a rag zip tied to my coolant jug for a lesson in how to PROPERLY in frame a Cummins ISX CM-871. .
Rawze invited me to his house to repair the damage the licensed and certified dealership did to my motor. We rebuilt it in his driveway, outside, under a canopy I picked up at Home Depot. Rawze and others warned me this would be the case... That was a $38,000 mistake you do not want to make.
Here is the kicker, this shop installed CM-2350 parts, liners, injectors, cam shafts etc, into my CM-871. It was a mess, they dry started it, injector cam scissor gear was ready to blow apart, they reused some parts that are one time use, never machined the block for the liners, did not set proper liner protrusions, they were all over the map, and a few other things... Certified Cummins repair facility.
You have been warned... LOL! If you want to join the club, have at it, I just hope you have deep pockets. Listen to the advice given here, the bad in frame club is not the club the cool kids fight to join.
Your truck sounds a lot like mine, it sat for a long period, had lot rot, needed an in frame, etc. I would say just on the mechanical side, if you can do most of the work, figure around $80,000 +/- to get her road worthy. I have easily twice that much in my 2008 ProStar, and then figure in lost income, I would say close to a half a million in costs and loses.
These are not the trucks of our grandfather, shoot some ether in the air intake and go to work, those days are LOOOOOOOOOOONG GONE.
You sir did not buy a truck, you opened a can of worms.