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+--- Thread: Getting ready to change doser at the turbo (/showthread.php?tid=6177)
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RE: Getting ready to change doser at the turbo - Meanwhile - 05-28-2020
When I ordered the NOX sensor, I also ordered the head gasket for the fuel pump. Whoever ordered the gasket put the wrong number in and got me the one for mounting to the block. When I ordered I asked about the barrel and plungers for the fuel pump and was told it looked like they couldn't order them and I'd have to get the whole head assembly at about $1,500. I'll have to check around some more.
Tomorrow I plan on getting started with this project. I was wondering since I've never replaced any of these parts, is there a good source for torque specs online? I'm wondering about the housing for the thermostat. Also, for this thermostat housing gasket, the one between the housing and the block, what would you all recommend for sealing it? A light coat of silicone?
RE: Getting ready to change doser at the turbo - the missing link - 05-28-2020
I would change the antifreeze filter and check to make sure the shutoff for the antifreeze filter is working .
RE: Getting ready to change doser at the turbo - Meanwhile - 05-28-2020
I picked up the antifreeze filter also. I stopped at Napa to see about the antifreeze test strips, they had a pack of 30ish for about $35 but they expired in 2017. I passed on that one.
RE: Getting ready to change doser at the turbo - JimT - 05-29-2020
(05-28-2020 )Meanwhile Wrote: I picked up the antifreeze filter also. I stopped at Napa to see about the antifreeze test strips, they had a pack of 30ish for about $35 but they expired in 2017. I passed on that one.
good catch on the expiration.
For the others reading, how often should you change the power steering filter? I had the reservoir replaced just shy of 2 years ago, i assume the filter was also new then.
A word of caution, be careful adding gear lube to the truck that still has a DPF. If/when you start burning a lot of oil the gear lube in there will create more ash and start clogging up the DPF faster. If your oil consumption is low then it's probably not a big deal. But as you get closer to needing an inframe and start consuming more oil then you may end up with more ash collecting in the DPF. It's the reason why most of those additives were removed from the motor oil in the first place. Good for the engine, but bad for the DPF.
RE: Getting ready to change doser at the turbo - Meanwhile - 05-29-2020
I check my oil every day and it doesn't seem to drop much between changes, antifreeze I may add about a quart every 2-3 months.
I had that nagging curiosity to see what my EGR valve looked like inside, how much garbage may have collected, that little voice kept saying to leave it alone. I ended up breaking 2 out of 3 clamps. I was patient, put a little oil on the threads and worked the nut back and forth. I guess it was time for new ones so I have all 3 set aside. The EGR wasn't to bad in my opinion, I cleaned it up and now I'm wondering if I should clean out everything from the cooler to the intake. I don't think I'll have time to do the intake this weekend.
Another thing I wondered, whats a good oil pressure at low idle? I started paying more attention to mine after posting and low idle mines about 20 pounds and going down the road its about 38-40.
Have a good weekend all!
RE: Getting ready to change doser at the turbo - JimT - 05-29-2020
My 2250 runs between 18-20 psi at idle (720rpm) and about 36-38 or so at about 1500-1600. These numbers are based on the needle in the dash, not an actual reading from insite, so my reading of them could be slightly off. Oh and thats only after the engine temp reaches 185F. At cold start it idles at about 40psi and slowly drops as the temp rises. If I don't let the engine get up to at least 150F before driving I could see the pressure get up to 60psi (that's with gear oil added) at 1500 or so. I let that happen once after first adding the gear oil, never again. Even 1100 rpm fast idle on a cold start can push the pressure over 50psi until it starts to warm up.
As for the warning about gear oil, was more of an fyi for the future when you start burnin more oil and the dpf/doc are also getting old and worn out. Makes for the perfect combination to have constant regens/dpf issues. Too much ash will clog up the internal passages in the DPF and any moisture that makes its way in there could turn the ash into mud. Eventually it causes too much restriction in air flow and the only way (that i'm aware of) to fix it is to drop the cans and get them cleaned, baked/de-ashed/flow tested.
As for cleaning the rest of the intake system, yes, do it as soon as you have time. You shouldn't need to go all the way to the CAC. just from the crossover tube to the intake.