+- Rawze.com: Rawze's ISX Technical Discussion and more (http://rawze.com/forums)
+-- Forum: Big Truck Technical Discussion... (/forumdisplay.php?fid=1)
+--- Forum: ISX Related Help (/forumdisplay.php?fid=68)
+--- Thread: crank case pressure (/showthread.php?tid=65)
RE: crank case pressure - scowman - 03-06-2016
Changed and drilled filter. Changed the sensor. No check engine light for 3000 miles.
Thanks
RE: crank case pressure - tariqzai - 07-23-2016
I had turbo actuator code come up few weeks a go, local Cummins dealer changed both. Turbo and actuator. Just 200 miles after new turbo installed, I got crankcase pressure code, while changing cc filter I saw milky liquid In filter case, it did not smell coolent, well again after 5000 miles got cc code, this time again lot of milky liquid. I have put new filter again, truck loosing coolent, small amount, as well. Plus help if any clue.
RE: crank case pressure - Vin - 07-23-2016
(07-23-2016 )tariqzai Wrote: I had turbo actuator code come up few weeks a go, local Cummins dealer changed both. Turbo and actuator. Just 200 miles after new turbo installed, I got crankcase pressure code, while changing cc filter I saw milky liquid In filter case, it did not smell coolent, well again after 5000 miles got cc code, this time again lot of milky liquid. I have put new filter again, truck loosing coolent, small amount, as well. Plus help if any clue.
How many mile interval do you change the oil? How many miles on the truck? Has the head ever been off or replaced?
The turbo seal could be leaking boost pressure into the oil drain pressurizing the crank case.
Have you taken the truck back to Cummins dealer that installed turbo for warranty and what did they say?
RE: crank case pressure - tariqzai - 07-24-2016
(07-23-2016 )Vin Wrote:(07-23-2016 )tariqzai Wrote: I had turbo actuator code come up few weeks a go, local Cummins dealer changed both. Turbo and actuator. Just 200 miles after new turbo installed, I got crankcase pressure code, while changing cc filter I saw milky liquid In filter case, it did not smell coolent, well again after 5000 miles got cc code, this time again lot of milky liquid. I have put new filter again, truck loosing coolent, small amount, as well. Plus help if any clue.
How many mile interval do you change the oil? How many miles on the truck? Has the head ever been off or replaced?
The turbo seal could be leaking boost pressure into the oil drain pressurizing the crank case.
Have you taken the truck back to Cummins dealer that installed turbo for warranty and what did they say?
Oil changed every 15k, truck has 625k miles, head never been off, did not take back to Cummins, spent 6k on turbo and m afraid they would come up with another high $$$ bill since I don't know if this issue is related to turbo or not, I checked oil on dip stick, it's clean, nothing in air tank, cc filter was wet and heavy and milky liquid and water dripping out when I changed it, oil and water mix muddy stuff around the case and I wiped it out. This truck had been losing coolent before turbo went bad and it's still leaking a small amount, I noticed that when I took the reservire cap off, the coolent level went up a little. Just dont know where to start looking, EGR, oil cooler, air compressor or just take it back to Cummins and pay whatever they ask. Truck is running fine after I changed the filter, no crank case code anymore, I am just afraid it does not look right for the watery and milky mix accumulating in ccc filter that quick.
RE: crank case pressure - Nilao - 07-24-2016
I know there is a thread on here that shows what the cc filter cover looks like if there's a coolant leak. It's green slime even if it's red coolant. I'm not sure about milky oil other than its water contamination. Where it's coming from I'm not sure. High humidity with low overnight temps causing a condensation issue? I'd expect to see coolant rise in the bottle after you take the pressure off of it. There are literally so many places to lose coolant it's not funny. You could have a hot water leak at a clamp, or any number of internal drips. I'm the kind of guy who hates shops that won't let me watch or even assist. I ask too many questions. Why is that bad? Why can't that be reused? I guess techs today don't like people challenging their diagnosis lol. I believe that I should always be educating myself. That's one reason I'm here almost daily.
RE: crank case pressure - Waterloo - 07-24-2016
If the coolant in your bottle is rising, it is more than likely the head or gasket with the miles on your truck. Are there any sever overheats in the ECM history, a good thing to check. Me, I would go to NAPA, or other auto parts store and purchase a block test kit. It only takes a matter of minutes to do, and will tell you if you have exhaust gas leaking in to your coolant system. I bought mine at NAPA, it diagnosed my bad head in a matter of seconds, literally. https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/BK_7001006/
One other thing you can check is your air compressor, sometimes they clog with soot and divert air back into the system. I'm having a brain fart, and cannot remember the line you remove and plug to test, one of the guys will chime in on how to do that, or do a search here on the site. Or, you can drain the air out of the tanks, leave the tanks open and start the truck. If the pressure build up in your coolant system stops, check the air compressor. That is a simple test to do... But I'm thinking head or possibly a dropped liner from what you are describing.
A little History, I bought my ProStar with 690,000 miles on her. Looking back, it had a bad head or gasket when I bought her. The DPF EGR issues I was having masked this problem, and I was totally uneducated on these systems. The DPF eventually cracked at 780,000 miles and I did the mandate removal. I did not have $7000 for a new DPF/DOC can and associated parts and pieces.
I drove mine like that for nearly a year, with the bad head and mandate removed, but that head had it's consequences. I was blowing coolant lines, blew my radiator apart (thankfully while parked at a customer and not driving) and lots and lots of coolant, hoses and downtime to make repairs. When it finally gave up the ghost, I had coolant shooting a few feet in the air out of my open coolant bottle... That was at the same time it took out my Tri-Pac lines and left me stranded on the side of the road... It was time. If you are to the point your coolant is rising in the bottle in a matter of seconds, you do not have much time left IF it is the head or gasket.
If it is the head, go new, not reman, they are having issues with Cummins reman heads according to a few of the mechanics on here that do this kind of work. They are roughly $400 to $600 more than a Cummins reman, spend the extra money and do it right with a Cummins factory OEM new head. It is also a good time to be rid of the mandate, but that is just my opinion. I feel for you, this is not fun, not fun at all.
I hope this is something simple like a sooted up compressor line, fingers crossed, praying for you and throwing chicken bones!
RE: crank case pressure - Vin - 07-24-2016
Pressure testing the coolant system would be one of my next steps, see
RE: crank case pressure - tariqzai - 07-25-2016
I just used the Crack head test tool on this engine and it came positve, I noticed that coolent level been less than minimum before i took the cap off, truck been sitting with engine off for two days and while talking the cup off it still had pressure, coolent level went further up when i took the cap off, when cranked the truck in few minutes it over flew and kept coming up like boiling water. I assume it has a head gasket issue.
RE: crank case pressure - in2trux - 07-25-2016
You assume correctly. Sorry to hear that. Get it fixed before it takes out the rest of the engine and it will, fast.
625,000 miles, almost exactly the same as our inframe. Time to check counterbores, cut and shim so the problem doesn't come right back.
If the head has never been off, it's due too.