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+--- Thread: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours (/showthread.php?tid=7743)
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - Volvo8873 - 10-01-2021
(09-30-2021 )FnG92 Wrote: I've looked for cheaper trucks. If you have been seeing cheaper trucks where are you finding them?
Trucks are ridiculously expensive right now. You should take notes on what drivers have for rigs on here. My setup is a 2011 Volvo VNL day cab ISX 2250 with a manual Eaton 10 speed with 3.73 rear ends. Nothing special.... Wish I was in a Prostar but it works for me and what I profit from a business stand point.
I am not sure where you are looking but you should look REAL hard on trucks and scan everything on the inter webs and whatsoever. Trucks are out there you just need to keep a good eye out at this time. Have you looked on truckpaper.com?
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - FnG92 - 10-01-2021
Yes I have, I've looked everywhere I can find online. Frieghtliner dealership tried selling me an 18 evolution for 90k with 430k miles. The 500k mile trucks were 50k ). kenworth has no inventory same as Frieghtliner. I didn't plan to go to a dealer but I found the t800 online. Frieght rates I have seen are 3/mile right now and my plan is to A. Have enough to pay off the truck at any given time and sell for a loss or B. Pay for an inflame. My goal is to run as much as I can and live within my means and pay off truck and still have inframe money.
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - tree98 - 10-01-2021
If you buy that truck or any truck with a cummins, you'll need to make an account on quickserve.com it's free. It's a cummins website that uses your engine serial number to give you specific parts and service information for your engine. With this and the cummins insite program you'll be set up with exactly what the dealers have and you can look up parts for yourself and not rely on the stealer to give you the right information.
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - amermextrucker - 10-01-2021
(09-30-2021 )FnG92 Wrote: I've looked for cheaper trucks. If you have been seeing cheaper trucks where are you finding them?I purchased my truck at rush truck centers. Be patient, don't rush into anything. I've been looking at truck paper magazine and if u look carefully there are some reasonably priced trucks, you just have to look thru.
When u narrow it down and u have the truck u think is the one, send an oil sample out , make sure u watch them as they pull it. If it comes back good tell them to pull valve cover off and inspect also open up fuel pump , if they say it will cost you imo it wouldn't be a problem for me.
Also what u can do is write down engine serial # and call Cummins, get thru to the shop and tell them your looking into buying a truck with a Cummins and ask if they can give u any info on any work being done to it. That's what I did I called them at least 5 times and they where always helpful. Good luck to you.
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - Rawze - 10-01-2021
Richie brothers auctions...
This is definitely the way to go ... cut out the middle-man, as all these used truck dealers do is buy at auction, wash-em, bake the DPF for about $400 bucks.. and sell em for 2-3x as much as they got em for.
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=6334&pid=55156#pid55156
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - tree98 - 10-01-2021
Personally I've never seen any kind of deal at a RB auction. There marketing is so strong, there seems to always be someone willing to pay to much. I've also often wondered if they don't buy it back with an inside bid if it doesn't bring what they want it to. Just my own observations.
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - SquareOne - 10-01-2021
(10-01-2021 )tree98 Wrote: Personally I've never seen any kind of deal at a RB auction..... I've also often wondered if they don't buy it back with an inside bid if it doesn't bring what they want it to....
Shill bidding <---- thats the term you're lookin for, and it happens at EVERY auction I've ever been to (I had a dealership for awhile, so I've been to a few lol).
I've watched plenty of guys have their buddies run up the bid so they can get what they want out of the vehicle, especially when those same people spotted 'green' bidders on their units. If you step back and pay attention, you can usually see who's doing what. Auctions are meant to be exciting, rushed and very confusing all at the same time....Usually that's when you'll pay too much. Money is made when ya buy the vehicle, not when ya sell it!
Typically, I did the best at larger auction with plenty people and units. Best deals were usually found at the end of the lanes when most people have either spent their money or just left because they were tired of standing. The odds of a good deal are much more in your favor without 30 other people trying to get it. The most important thing to remember is it only takes 2 people to want something for the bidding to skyrocket very quickly. ( I watched 2 people who hated each other drive the price of a Corvette through the roof just so the other one couldn't get it....only person who won that deal was the seller. ) Your best bet is to put a price in your head and walk away if it climbs higher. No matter how much the auctioneer and their 'assistants' badger you, just walk away. They'll be another deal to be had.
Good luck on what you decide.
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - Meanwhile - 10-02-2021
Maybe I'm looking at this all wrong but, the price of the truck and the in-frame money you're willing to put out comes to $96,000? What can you buy now at that price that will last you a couple years without putting a pile of money into it? If I had $30,000 on the side for a possible in-frame and were looking for a truck, I'd look at all the options out there.
RE: Buying 2015 isx 2350 234k miles high hours - FnG92 - 10-02-2021
I just purchased the amsoil filter kit I saw rawze post a link to (bmk30). If I have the oil changed the kit says that it adds approximately 1 gallon to the oil capacity. So if I tell them to add cummins recommend oil and then add one gallon of gear oil? Is there a specific type of oil + the gear oil? Am I thinking about this properly?