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RE: tuning question - schISM - 05-17-2022
Got it, thanks for the explanation Rawze. I have a 2250 I “Africanized“ and it seems like the “snappy” throttle response of the stock cal. isn’t there. I thought the OFC mods were to blame. I’ll change it back to the recommended settings.
RE: tuning question - ptlogan77 - 05-17-2022
Thats a lot of information!
Thanks for looking at the ECM file and reviewing it!
Now, with the information you have provided me, how do I go about getting the proper tune for my engine?
RE: tuning question - Rawze - 05-17-2022
(05-17-2022 )ptlogan77 Wrote: Thats a lot of information!
Thanks for looking at the ECM file and reviewing it!
Now, with the information you have provided me, how do I go about getting the proper tune for my engine?
Since it can be easily fixed, there is no need to go about wiping out the program and starting over like most people would have to do. I can simply fix it and send it back to ya. - Putting it back into your truck will be up to you. Putting it back in is almost the same process as copying it out. The only real question is what power/torque, etc. that it should be set to.
RE: tuning question - ptlogan77 - 05-21-2022
First Trip Update!
I downloaded the corrected ECM files to my truck an took a short trip from the coast to Spokane and back. (about 850 miles round trip with a lot of hills)
First impressions are:
Obvious higher useable RPM range.
Was 1100 to 1500 RPM, Now 1400 to 1800.
Sweet spot for pulling is 1500.
I pulled Snoqualmie Pass at 1500 RPM and the pyrometer sat at 900 steady, @ 32lbs of boost MAX.
Tried 1600 RPM, and pyro would climb to 1000.
At 1700 on a hard pull I could get 1050.
So, I'm sure that were on the bleeding edge of too much boost, but what a pulling beast at 1500 where before you'd have to lug it down into the Basement Beating RPM's.
The pyrometer acts the same as before...the higher the RPM the higher the EGT's, but for my money this setup works great as I can pull any hill at 15-1600 and not be concerned as much about the lower end getting punished and the EGT's stay at a comfortable level.
The hills I pulled with the same load as last week I pulled at 8-10 MPH faster and a half gear higher than before, so I cant give an accurate fuel mileage update yet, but when cruising on the flat stretches it used far less boost to cruise, and the current fuel mileage data showed a vast improvement from before.
No tune is going to make up for the 3.25 rear gears that I have, or the large flat grille I'm pushing down the road, but to say that I'm anything less than extremely pleased with the changes done to the tune would be unfair to Rawze, as he has found a few tweaks that effectively move the functional RPM range of the engine up to a safer, more useable area with no downside noticed.
If the original tuner was to apply some changes to his tune raising the RPM range and decreasing the low RPM fuel load along with fixing the derate issue, (there is obviously far more available power now) I believe that the liner pounding, block fretting tunes could eventually just be a bad memory like so many other tricks we've tried like backing off the aneroid, the green and yellow spring, and over-shimming the pump...Live and learn!
I'll be interested to see the fuel mileage numbers next month when I start traveling to Northern B.C., where there are some LONG stretches of flat road where I can get some real information on flat ground mileage.
Thanks to Rawze for looking over my tune and making some minor adjustments that when put together made a major improvement!
I downloaded the corrected ECM files to my truck an took a short trip from the coast to Spokane and back. (about 850 miles round trip with a lot of hills)
First impressions are:
Obvious higher useable RPM range.
Was 1100 to 1500 RPM, Now 1400 to 1800.
Sweet spot for pulling is 1500.
I pulled Snoqualmie Pass at 1500 RPM and the pyrometer sat at 900 steady, @ 32lbs of boost MAX.
Tried 1600 RPM, and pyro would climb to 1000.
At 1700 on a hard pull I could get 1050.
So, I'm sure that were on the bleeding edge of too much boost, but what a pulling beast at 1500 where before you'd have to lug it down into the Basement Beating RPM's.
The pyrometer acts the same as before...the higher the RPM the higher the EGT's, but for my money this setup works great as I can pull any hill at 15-1600 and not be concerned as much about the lower end getting punished and the EGT's stay at a comfortable level.
The hills I pulled with the same load as last week I pulled at 8-10 MPH faster and a half gear higher than before, so I cant give an accurate fuel mileage update yet, but when cruising on the flat stretches it used far less boost to cruise, and the current fuel mileage data showed a vast improvement from before.
No tune is going to make up for the 3.25 rear gears that I have, or the large flat grille I'm pushing down the road, but to say that I'm anything less than extremely pleased with the changes done to the tune would be unfair to Rawze, as he has found a few tweaks that effectively move the functional RPM range of the engine up to a safer, more useable area with no downside noticed.
If the original tuner was to apply some changes to his tune raising the RPM range and decreasing the low RPM fuel load along with fixing the derate issue, (there is obviously far more available power now) I believe that the liner pounding, block fretting tunes could eventually just be a bad memory like so many other tricks we've tried like backing off the aneroid, the green and yellow spring, and over-shimming the pump...Live and learn!
I'll be interested to see the fuel mileage numbers next month when I start traveling to Northern B.C., where there are some LONG stretches of flat road where I can get some real information on flat ground mileage.
Thanks to Rawze for looking over my tune and making some minor adjustments that when put together made a major improvement!
RE: tuning question - ptlogan77 - 08-18-2022
Okay...
40,000 miles into this new tune, running hard up north, eh!
The truck runs good, but on long pulls, as I go above 1500RPM the pyro starts to rise above 1050 pretty fast, and the oil temp rises above 230 pretty quickly as well.
I'm forced to pull hills at 1400-1500, to keep the temps in check, and I'm afraid of long term bottom end damage by not being able to run at a higher rpm on hard pulls due to the temps.
On flat ground and short hills I'm able to run at 1600-1800, but even then I see the oil temp rise. I also am virtually unable to use the third stage on the engine brake, as it rises above 32psi immediately. second stage is fine for most hills, but stage 3 would be nice at times.
With the cargo that I am hauling (live seafood), I have to run the engine during stops to keep the air pumps running. I always idle up to 900 rpm, and have no slobber or other idle related issues, but would like to know if the tune can be optimized for efficient running during high idle to reduce the risk of liner polishing and fuel wash.
The tune is a great improvement from stock, but I feel a few tweaks are now needed to allow the engine to run at a higher rpm without temperature issues, and allow usage of the third stage on the jakes without potential damage.
any input regarding these concerns would be greatly appreciated.
RE: tuning question - Rawze - 08-18-2022
is the pyro sensor pre-turbo.. in the manifold itself.. or post turbo, in the exhaust past it?.
and if the engine brake are all back at factory settings, then you should not have to be worrying about it on stage-3.
RE: tuning question - ptlogan77 - 08-18-2022
Pyro sensor is post turbo in the spot where the doser used to be.
The engine brake is set as it was when I got the tune.
RE: tuning question - Rawze - 08-18-2022
(08-18-2022 )ptlogan77 Wrote: Pyro sensor is post turbo in the spot where the doser used to be.
The engine brake is set as it was when I got the tune.
Many people with X15's are report that their boost pressures during engine braking is higher than older model engines.
on older models like the CM871, about 28 psi or so is expected.. and about 30-32 or so on the CM2250's and CM2350's max.. but on the X15's, some people are reporting they are running 36 and higher depending on the situation... even on factory stock programming. Personally, I would think that 36-38 would be pushing your luck with one unless the X15's maybe have stronger valve springs, or something else to allow it?... or maybe having it mapped so that it falls off more sharply at higher RPM ranges?.
RE: tuning question - Aleeex - 08-21-2022
I’m no expert, just asking questions to try to understand more myself.
When the engine brake is on, there’s no fuel being delivered - right?
So there’s no combustion?
Would the higher boost or positive pressure still be bad for the engine? Air compressed and isn’t that what slows down the engine?
I understand that higher pressures could float the valves if the valve springs aren’t designed for this. (Back when I had a 12 valve 5.9 we had to upgrade the valve springs to run an exhaust brake so the valves don’t float)