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+--- Thread: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) (/showthread.php?tid=5736)
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Waterloo - 01-26-2020
I spoke with DY, this truck has sat for quite awhile, there are definitely going to be other issues coming his way. Lot rot is not a pretty thing, and can get very expensive. Trust me on that, as I have the receipts to prove it.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Chamberpains - 01-26-2020
I spoke with him the other day too. He seems to be smart enough to figure this all out. His mechanical knowledge is limited but he's got the right attitude to get in there, figure it out and get it done. He understands and has a great analogy on how mechanical things are put together. I heard him taking notes on what I was telling him. So hopefully he writes the rest of the stuff that is pointed out, down and continues to look in to it deeper. The pictures posted allow him to have experienced eyes on what he's dealing with. I know intimately what conditions he's working in. Central PA, outside this week is in the 30-40° range during the day. It's better than last week but still a shivering knuckle busting ordeal. I offered my driveway as a place to help him out last week but he had his truck in the shop still. Unfortunately for him I'm hopefully heading back OTR this week to make some of my repair costs back. If I get up through his way, I'll surely swing off and take a look at things with him.
If the AC compressor is shot, then more than likely the idler and tension pulleys are on their way out too. If that's the case, what shape is the fan hub in? All questions that need an answer before it seizes a pulley, slings the belt and leaves him sitting in BFE.
Rawze says the turbo slobber is possibly normal due to extended Idle. The pictures inside the turbo and piping will let us see if its excessive or not.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-26-2020
(01-26-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: Why is there no belt going over your AC compressor? I see major rust on the pulley. Is it short belted? If so, you probably have a lot worn out or shot parts on the front of the truck.
Also that fuel filter in your Davco (FF5369W) is a 25 micron filter. If you want your fuel system to stay clean and get some serious longevity out of its parts (pumps, injectors and such) you'll want to look in to a 10 micron filter for it. I dont know for sure but looking at the but I believe this should be it (FS1039W). Get one and compare the size to be sure.
Here's a big one. Take the black rubber pipe and the aluminum red pipe off in this picture and take VERY good clear (with flash on) pictures of the inside of them and back in to the turbo. Also on the drivers side, take the blue rubber hose off and check for oil. Take good clear pictures inside that as well. So we can see how bad that turbo is leaking.
The AC compressor is not functional, so I had the belt removed.
That's a relatively new fuel filter installed on there, but I will look into the one you recommend.
I'll try to take the pipping off as soon as I can, and take those pictures inside.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-26-2020
I got the DPF off today, took it home and I'll do some karate on it later tonight. I just want to make sure I do it according to procedure. The DOC doesn't come off, so I suppose I will have to do that part on the truckstop lot.
The only fault code that I had, was due to the DOC. I ran the After-treatment Maintenance Reset, and cleared out all the fault codes with Insite. I will use the milk overlay tomorrow, to see if the truck even runs.
Then I will continue with cleaning out the maniflold and appropriate sensors.
I'm going to buy some better serious tools today.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Chamberpains - 01-26-2020
Which tools are looking to buy? We may be able to point you in a good quality and maybe more affordable route.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - JimT - 01-26-2020
(01-26-2020 )D_Y_F_B_A_E Wrote: I got the DPF off today, took it home and I'll do some karate on it later tonight. I just want to make sure I do it according to procedure. The DOC doesn't come off, so I suppose I will have to do that part on the truckstop lot.
If it's like mine, the front of the DOC starts out as a 5" exhaust pipe before opening up to the larger can size. Just remove the first clamp you find and take the entire section out. That entire piece along with the DPF is normally taken to be cleaned and flow tested together.
Keep in mind that DOC efficiency and the DPF regen temperature is also dependant on the EGR, Doser Injector and Turbo all functioning properly, so your true problem probably lies elsewhere.
(01-26-2020 )D_Y_F_B_A_E Wrote: I'm going to buy some better serious tools today.
You can never have enough tools, but you sure can do a lot with a basic set of wrenches, ratchets and sockets. Make sure you have sizes above 3/4" and 18mm. I use 19-24mm a lot as well as 1" sockets. Shallow and deep sockets along with various extensions and swivel adaptors help. A couple different torque wrenches and a breaker bar (or my preference, a pipe for an extension). Everything else you'll acquire slowly as you find a need for it.
Then you have the non-essential but extremely helpful items:
zip ties
gorilla tape
anti-seize
Fast Orange Hand Wipes (or whatever brand you prefer)
a box of nitrile or latex exam gloves - 7 or 9 mil is good and strong
shop towels
and last but not least, a piece of cardboard to put on the ground and lay on. easier to transport than a creeper and helps you slide underneath the truck on all kinds of surfaces.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-26-2020
(01-26-2020 )Chamberpains Wrote: Which tools are looking to buy? We may be able to point you in a good quality and maybe more affordable route.
Right now I just have some tools from Walmart. It feels like a toy set.
One of the sockets has already cracked.
It's time that I step up, and actually buy a quality set of tools.
Since, my smart dumb brain so badly wants to believe that all tools made of metal are equal.. I'm going to have to take the advice of you guys that know better. Please point me in the right direction, and I will do some research.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-26-2020
What is a good tool to use, to hollow out my cans?
Should I use a hacksaw blade? Or would any sharp or blunt tool do the job?
Or maybe even my hand?
I don't even know what the material is that it's made out of.
I assume that it would be some sort of special fabric?
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Brock - 01-26-2020
(01-26-2020 )D_Y_F_B_A_E Wrote: What is a good tool to use, to hollow out my cans?
Should I use a hacksaw blade? Or would any sharp or blunt tool do the job?
Or maybe even my hand?
I don't even know what the material is that it's made out of.
I assume that it would be some sort of special fabric?
Crowbar or rebar and a hammer, punch your bar through all the way with the hammer then it will all start coming apart easy.