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+--- Thread: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) (/showthread.php?tid=5736)
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Lonestar10 - 01-26-2020
My socket sets are craftsman, my overhead nm torque wrench came from Amazon same one rawze uses in video, most of the rest come from harbor freight. If you want all the tools to do almost everything budget about 1,000 bucks and go quality on torque wrench type items and sockets so you don't over/under torque or bust nuckles when getting jiggy with a bolt.
ID recommed 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 in torque wrenches 1/4 for inch lbs items 3/8 for medium ft lbs and 1/2 for bit ft lbs. One thing to keep in mind is all torque wrenches are most accurate in the middle of what they can do. So a 0-100 ft lbs wrench is most accurate at 40-60 ft lbs.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-26-2020
(01-26-2020 )Brock Wrote:(01-26-2020 )D_Y_F_B_A_E Wrote: What is a good tool to use, to hollow out my cans?
Should I use a hacksaw blade? Or would any sharp or blunt tool do the job?
Or maybe even my hand?
I don't even know what the material is that it's made out of.
I assume that it would be some sort of special fabric?
Crowbar or rebar and a hammer, punch your bar through all the way with the hammer then it will all start coming apart easy.
Thanks for the method!
Since I can't remove the DOC, do you think it would be okay to poke it through with the rebar as well, and then pull the pieces out?
Google Photos Link-> https://drive.google.com/open?id=153e7HnZmpEuhlIyTIsw9bxPCBgxuGwE_
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Lonestar10 - 01-27-2020
Yeah use whatever you blast through doc same thing with dpf
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-27-2020
I have been hammering away at the DPF and realized it's nothing like how I thought it would be. It's tough!
If the DOC is anything like the DPF, there's no way I'd be able to hammer it in while it's still attached to the underside of my truck.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Old Driver - 01-27-2020
Using a sawzall speeds up the process quite a bit.
Since you've got a CM871 while your doing the egr tuneup might as well replace the crankcase filter to the new maintenance free version. Part 3691476
I had to the opportunity to run my first overhead at a pilot and my first rawze egr tune up. Its best to nose into a spot and I liked to use cardboard under the truck so I didnt have to lay on the floor.
Ive seen one guy who does his oil changes at a cabelas.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Old Driver - 01-27-2020
Some tools that stay in the truck at all times.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-27-2020
(01-27-2020 )Bahdan Wrote: Using a sawzall speeds up the process quite a bit.
Since you've got a CM871 while your doing the egr tuneup might as well replace the crankcase filter to the new maintenance free version. Part 3691476
I had to the opportunity to run my first overhead at a pilot and my first rawze egr tune up. Its best to nose into a spot and I liked to use cardboard under the truck so I didnt have to lay on the floor.
Ive seen one guy who does his oil changes at a cabelas.
So with this maintenance-free Crank Case Breather Insert, will it no longer be necessary to drill the hole into the crank case filter?
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - D_Y_F_B_A_E - 01-27-2020
Okay, so I finished doing karate on the DPF.
Have a look at the photos-> https://drive.google.com/open?id=153e7HnZmpEuhlIyTIsw9bxPCBgxuGwE_
Is that sufficient? Or should it be wider?
Now I have to do the DOC. According to the guide I should remove HALF of it. Should I do that in a similar pattern as the DPF, starting from the middle and removing 50%? Or should I literally just remove half of it, so that it looks like a half-moon when it's all done?
I want to thank you all again for all of your help! I appreciate it, and I understand that you guys know more than me about this topic, so I'm looking to you as my superiors.
RE: ProStar CM871 Turbo (Before Milk2) - Old Driver - 01-27-2020
(01-27-2020 )D_Y_F_B_A_E Wrote:(01-27-2020 )Bahdan Wrote: Using a sawzall speeds up the process quite a bit.
Since you've got a CM871 while your doing the egr tuneup might as well replace the crankcase filter to the new maintenance free version. Part 3691476
I had to the opportunity to run my first overhead at a pilot and my first rawze egr tune up. Its best to nose into a spot and I liked to use cardboard under the truck so I didnt have to lay on the floor.
Ive seen one guy who does his oil changes at a cabelas.
So with this maintenance-free Crank Case Breather Insert, will it no longer be necessary to drill the hole into the crank case filter?
Here is what the updated filter looks like. Its a one time buy and needs no replacement anymore.