(08-18-2016 )Mrkentee Wrote:  The hardest part is getting the old one off. I sprayed wd40 all around it and started working it with a couple of big pry bars. I was afraid to crack the pulley. I read that they could be real tough to budge. I worked it some more and the front ring popped off and the pulley came loose. Just had to work it off the shaft, over the corrosion on the end. Same with the damper itself. I cleaned up the end of the crankshaft with sandpaper. I used a little die grinder in the holes of the pulley and ring to clean them up, very lightly. Everything slid right on nice. As stated above, you line up the pin. It only goes one way. Put some oil on the bolts, and torque to 130 lb ft in a star pattern.
If you haven't already, you can register your engine serial number on quickserve and open a free account. You'll have access to procedures, part numbers, diagnostics, codes etc.

(08-19-2016 )Rawze Wrote:  

(08-18-2016 )Mrkentee Wrote:  The hardest part is getting the old one off. I sprayed wd40 all around it and started working it with a couple of big pry bars. I was afraid to crack the pulley. I read that they could be real tough to budge. I worked it some more and the front ring popped off and the pulley came loose. Just had to work it off the shaft, over the corrosion on the end. Same with the damper itself. I cleaned up the end of the crankshaft with sandpaper. I used a little die grinder in the holes of the pulley and ring to clean them up, very lightly. Everything slid right on nice. As stated above, you line up the pin. It only goes one way. Put some oil on the bolts, and torque to 130 lb ft in a star pattern.
If you haven't already, you can register your engine serial number on quickserve and open a free account. You'll have access to procedures, part numbers, diagnostics, codes etc.

Yup, I did all that when replacing mine -- soaked it, sanded the shaft, scraped the rust out of the joints, soaked it more, beat on it, pulled at it,. put a 12-ton puller on it,... heated it with a butaine torch, soaked it some more,... cursed for a couple days and soaked and pulled at it ... had others help to pry on it (with the puller maxed out at 12 tons), tried and tried to break it free... Eventually (after damaging its outside and forced to remove it now),.... lightly tapped it with a 40-lb sledge hammer and the puller maxed out. -- It STILL DID NOT BUDGE!!!--- So I Slammed it full swing with the sledge hammer in utter complete frustration!!! ---- It jumped about 1/32 inch the first hit, but did move. --- About 6 more full force swings later, and determined to get it off even if it damages the crank at this point,... it finally jumped off.

I.E. -- I must haver had a "worse case scenario" on mine. -- All you guys who changed it so easily are lucky. LOL

Just make sure you don't pry against the gear cover,.. It will leak badly and you will regret it.

(08-17-2016 )74bassman Wrote:  Still looking for instruction on this.

(06-28-2019 )Andre_The_Giant Wrote:  Thanks everyone for all of the information on this, is it necessary to paint the back side of the new dampener too? Or is just the front & outer markings edge fine. Also should i tape up the mounting surfaces (bolt holes) or just paint it bolted on

(06-28-2019 )Waterloo Wrote:  

(06-28-2019 )Andre_The_Giant Wrote:  Thanks everyone for all of the information on this, is it necessary to paint the back side of the new dampener too? Or is just the front & outer markings edge fine. Also should i tape up the mounting surfaces (bolt holes) or just paint it bolted on

Best to paint the entire thing, front and back, they do rust. I would do that and then install. Use the Cummins factory OEM paint, it is not cheap, but it holds up better than anything you will find at Home Depot. I would highlight the timing marks too with an offset color. Save you frustration down the road.