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+--- Thread: Aftermath of Metering/Timing actuators. HELP! (/showthread.php?tid=1377)
Aftermath of Metering/Timing actuators. HELP! - Grizzly - 01-20-2017
Ok heres the scenario.
Took off both metering and timing actuators to check them as I was losing fuel mileage and power and idling rough. I found 3 worn and with side play. 1 Metering and 2 Timing. Bought new put them on. Trucking ran like dog shi#t and threw a fuel rail pressure code and was chugging black smoke. The truck eventually died and wouldn't re-start.
I pulled the new ones I bought and went back and got my old ones back which are now re-installed, as I figured 1 (not knowing which 1) of them was bad.
Pulled the DPF and DOC which were thoroughly caked with soot by now and took them to be cleaned. Which the DPF has now been deemed not cleanable and trashed. So theres $2100 gone.
Since I'm told the truck has to run for AT LEAST 10 minutes to clear stuff up, I'm now running it with the DOC and DPF removed. I got 5 solid minutes out of it (as I am now completely overly paranoid the truck is going to blow up, catch fire, ruin something else I don't have money for) (I also only ran 5 minutes as it is clouding my neighborhood too, as well coating my driveway and house with soot, its a flippin mess) and got 2 egr temp sensor codes, which I expected, and another fuel rail pressure with the red shut engine down light on the dash.
During this time it at least doesnt sound like the a rod is trying to blow through the side of motor but its loping in idle. From 6 to 11 and back. Up and down, Up and down.
So the questions are:
A: Is this still normal, do I keep pressing on letting it idle until the soot clears, regardless of the dash light and codes?
B: Is doing this now clogging up the rest of my EGR system.
C: Is this now clogging up my EGR valve.
D: Is this now clogging up my EGR cooler.
Anyone else do this type of stuff on the fuel system and have to go thru this.
Please give me ALL details of what I will incur or should do.
Many thanks for help!
RE: Aftermath of Metering/Timing actuators. HELP! - preacherboy24 - 01-20-2017
Its conceivable you may have put a metering in place of a timing actuator. Look up the video on the fuel system in a 871 and it will show you the path the fuel takes. Just make sure you are not putting the wrong actuator over the wrong spot. They could also be labeled wrong. If the truck was running ok before this nightmare and you put on different actuators and its worse then something isnt where its supposed to be or its just plain shot. If there is a truck wrecking yard near you who will sell you used actuators you may want to consider getting a set just for testing. Another issue may be you just plain have a really bad injector (s) and putting on the new actuators aggravated the problem.
You are getting way too much fuel and the fuel code is telling me the low pressure is not coming from a leak outside the engine but inside......like an injector is dousing a cylinder. Put a heat gun to the exhaust manifold and see if a cylinder is cold or hot. Cut out that cylinder with Insite and see if the smoke goes away.
RE: Aftermath of Metering/Timing actuators. HELP! - Rawze - 01-21-2017
(01-20-2017 )Grizzly Wrote: Ok heres the scenario.
Took off both metering and timing actuators to check them as I was losing fuel mileage and power and idling rough. I found 3 worn and with side play. 1 Metering and 2 Timing. Bought new put them on. Trucking ran like dog shi#t and threw a fuel rail pressure code and was chugging black smoke. The truck eventually died and wouldn't re-start.
I pulled the new ones I bought and went back and got my old ones back which are now re-installed, as I figured 1 (not knowing which 1) of them was bad.
Pulled the DPF and DOC which were thoroughly caked with soot by now and took them to be cleaned. Which the DPF has now been deemed not cleanable and trashed. So theres $2100 gone.
Since I'm told the truck has to run for AT LEAST 10 minutes to clear stuff up, I'm now running it with the DOC and DPF removed. I got 5 solid minutes out of it (as I am now completely overly paranoid the truck is going to blow up, catch fire, ruin something else I don't have money for) (I also only ran 5 minutes as it is clouding my neighborhood too, as well coating my driveway and house with soot, its a flippin mess) and got 2 egr temp sensor codes, which I expected, and another fuel rail pressure with the red shut engine down light on the dash.
During this time it at least doesnt sound like the a rod is trying to blow through the side of motor but its loping in idle. From 6 to 11 and back. Up and down, Up and down.
So the questions are:
A: Is this still normal, do I keep pressing on letting it idle until the soot clears, regardless of the dash light and codes?
B: Is doing this now clogging up the rest of my EGR system.
C: Is this now clogging up my EGR valve.
D: Is this now clogging up my EGR cooler.
Anyone else do this type of stuff on the fuel system and have to go thru this.
Please give me ALL details of what I will incur or should do.
Many thanks for help!
After having the fuel system apart, the truck will run like crap for about 10 minutes or so,.. but IT SHOULD NOT BE BELLOWING BLACK SMOKE LIKE MAD!--- YOU HAVE SOMETHING ELSE WRONG!@.
Here is one cranking for the first time when everything has been apart at 7:09 in the video...
it should not smoke for more than about 10-15 seconds or so,.. then it will miss a lot, and run like crap, but not smoke like mad.
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I WOULD BET that your DPF can has been clogged and has been bad for a while,.. and that is why it ran like total crap, even before you tried replacing actuators. --- You likely cooked your injectors by running it against a blocked up DPf can, and now you are paying the price for it.
Still,.. it can be a different problem than actuators and/or injectors that can cause it to run like crap! --- Maybe your fuel pump failed? -- What is the rail pressure when it is cranking? --- Can you run the engine on 3 cylinders at a time using the Insite software??? --- front 3 cylinders? -- back 3? -- do cutout test on front 3, then back 3 using Insite and find out what cylinder(s) are making all the bellowing smoke. DO NOT resort to unplugging the actuators --- Use Insite for this ONLY!. The engine will fail an actuator for several minutes sometimes if you unplug one and it will fool you very badly, and is a waste of time!.
You could have also lost an injector completely, or an injector tip. This can have some serious consequences and make it run really badly. -- Perform an injector leak test before you go any further!...
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REMOVE the venturi pipe going to the intake and ensure it is not wet with coolant from the EGR cooler!. Your EGR cooler may have failed and it could be sucking coolant into the engine and running like crap!>
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Lastly,... Your turbocharger could have licked up at 100% closed position, and the ECM not know it. This would totally choke off the exhaust manifold amd make a LOT of black smoke and make the engine barely run. --- Perhaps you should drain your coolant and inspect your turbo while you are at it...