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Help needed - INTERPRO - 10-08-2017
Good morning,
My brother's 2009 Prostar started having problems yesterday. He drove 40 miles and started having problems. He said he was loosing power when he had a loaded trailer and the check engine started flickering when it was going over a hill. He is guesstimating that he is losing about 30% power. He drove another 100 miles and pulled out the codes with the Jpro (check report on attached file 1). He cleared all the codes and drove back 140 miles since he didn't want to risk damaging the engine and pulled the codes again with Jpro (check report on attached file 2). We noticed that the cluster LCD display has a defect that looks like a cigarette burn look. Where should we begin troubleshooting this? Anyone had a similar experience.
Thanks
Some of the truck's info, let me know if you need more info.
@m*m^2 485HP my ESN is 79343871 and the cal number is AV10064.44 (running great since 07/2015)
DPF Removed
EGR blocked with stainless steel washers.
13 Speed Eaton manual transmission.
APU= truck hardly idles.
RE: Help needed - kmk - 10-08-2017
Check your brake lights and cruise operation. The brake switch code is likely caused by corrosion in the wiring. Start from the BCM connectors and the switch connectors, any "green crusties"... Make sure all of them are clean and the connector female contacts are not spread apart, make good contact. Check the resistance values on the j1939 terminating resistors at the test plug.
J4 Connector is for the Cab. there Shouldnt be anything on pin f11.
J5 has pinouts for J1939 datalink and zero volt reference, make sure its clean and makes good contact. Really important.
Check all of them.
ECM connectors too. Power and grounds too. You are likely chasing intermittent data link problems due to excessive resistance. Get yourself wiring diagrams.
Fuses and breakers too, any discoloration there just replace them. Make sure they make good contact too.
I would start at the BCM and test plug then chase the rest. See how things respond.
Post your results, so we can all learn from them.
RE: Help needed - Rawze - 10-08-2017
Keep this in mind... Mine happened to get plagued with only steering wheel button problems, but it could have been a dozen other ghost problems that tarnished fuses creates too ...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=1514&pid=12861#pid12861
Just something to consider.
RE: Help needed - INTERPRO - 10-08-2017
Thanks for the replies,
I am going to start by doing that. Should I also replace the gauge cluster? Its kind of weird that I am getting cluster communications problems and that defect that looks like a cigarette burn. If I do end up replacing the cluster gauge is there anything programing wise i have to do? or is it just plug and play?
Thanks again.
RE: Help needed - kmk - 10-08-2017
Take a photo of it and post it. Any of your gauges not working?
RE: Help needed - INTERPRO - 10-08-2017
Here is the picture of the cluster. It just started showing yesterday. all the gauges work.
RE: Help needed - INTERPRO - 10-08-2017
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I followed this procedure and it shows a fluctuation from 60-90 ohms from pins D and C. If i remove the front resistor (under the venturi pipe where we block off the egr with the washers) it has the same values. I checked the resistor in the front out of the circuit and it shows 120.6ohms which should be fine. I haven't been able to find the other resistor. Does anyone know where I could find it? It looks like there could be a bad resistor or a short somewhere
RE: Help needed - Rawze - 10-08-2017
(10-08-2017 )INTERPRO Wrote: Here is the picture of the cluster. It just started showing yesterday. all the gauges work.
A prostar,.. a burned out gauge cluster and acting up cab controller,,.. There is a well known culprit,... EVERY SINGLE PROSTAR has these problems if this culprit is not fixed that I mentioned here ...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=1962&pid=16882#pid16882
RE: Help needed - INTERPRO - 10-08-2017
update on the last test with fluctuating ohms. I checked my meter and found that one of my leads what a exposed cable. Replaced the fluke's cable and now I did a full test from nominal and resistance tests and found no problem. I will continue by replacing all the tarnish fuses and clean the rest of the breakers in the fuse panel. There are 3 out of 5 led's burned on my rear break light. Will update once i get done with that.