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+--- Thread: My Pete rebuild (/showthread.php?tid=3217)
RE: My Pete rebuild - pearce trucking - 09-26-2018
Hmmm.
Mine comes from the manifold you posted a pic of a few posts back. Where exactly is yours coming from?
RE: My Pete rebuild - Nostalgic - 09-26-2018
Ok, after spending way too much time on the subject, I finally have an answer to the my madness.
The new one in the picture is the one hanging on the E-6 Valve that supplies air for the seats. It's 3/8"Inlet, 1/4" outlets with a red cap that opens at 85 +/- psi, and closes at 67 +/- psi.
Part# 223-685
The painted black one, which was hanging off my secondary air tank, supplies the transmission. It's 1/2" inlet, 1/4" outlets, with a red cap that specs say opens at ≤100 and closes at ≥70. Part# 223-585 According to Bendix tech, for my model # AD-IS, 801266, the acc. ports both open AND close @ approx 109 psi, even though that doesn't sound entirely accurate...
All of this just so I know WHY I should spend $60 on a valve that didn't have a clear explanation as to why it was there.
RE: My Pete rebuild - dhirocz - 09-26-2018
I just did my torsion bars a couple months back. Put in those atro beefier ones with the poly bushings (which I like so far, by the way).
My KW uses those spacers. I made sure to snap pictures before removing them...your brain might forget where they go...a picture won't.
Something else I'll pass along. I made sure to put some anti seize on the shank of the bolt when I slid them back in. Two of mine were so bad I had to cut the old rods to get them out. My truck is only a '10 with 765k on it, road salt must have found a home in there.
RE: My Pete rebuild - Nostalgic - 10-05-2018
Finally finished running all new air lines, installed new relay valves and abs modulators on the rear. Split loomed everything individually and then tucked them into a big split loom to run the frame rail. I'll get pictures the next time I get it in to work on...
I have one fitting to replace, but after spraying everything down and watching for a couple of hours, I'm 99% leak free. Truck has been sitting for 5 days now and still has air in the cab and suspension bags.
Backlog of work for a little cash flow, and taking a much needed a break from the 18-20 hour days has left the truck on the back burner while I try to get some fall things taken care of before winter decides to make life miserable.
I finally got backordered battery box/fender mount plates... My wife saw the ones I blasted and primed and laughed at me for even thinking about reusing. The metal was getting a little thin I guess.
A little bump in the road with my bumper that I'm hopeful gets resolved soon. First I noticed the passenger side tweaked out at the bottom.
(compared to driver side)
But then to add insult to injury, I found that my pitman arm contacts the d.s. mount. So I flipped them, thinking hey, maybe I put them on wrong... Nope, nothing seems to line up with much of anything, and either way the mounts are installed makes contact with the pitman arm.
Next on the agenda is finally dropping my fuel tanks to check under the straps for corrosion, and pull my pickup tubes and senders. I'm either drawing from only the left tank, or returning more to the right tank, and right sender is reading open. Fuel lines is the only thing I didn't replace, only because there was a new return valve, and the lines looked like they were replaced shortly before the truck died. Another thing I miss from the 90's, when fuel tanks had crossover lines and ball valves to shut them off.
RE: My Pete rebuild - Chamberpains - 10-06-2018
You may want to have where the fuel tank straps ride beefed with an extra welded in piece of aluminum. Or at very least look in to 3M Weatherstripping adhesive to put between the tank and the rubber buffer that goes between the strap and the tank. It's not a bulletproof way of keeping dirt and road chemicals from getting between the strap and the tank and pitting holes in the tank, but it at least extends the some protection from it.
RE: My Pete rebuild - kryten - 10-06-2018
(10-05-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote: The metal was getting a little thin I guess.
That's not a rust hole. It's part of a strategic weight reduction program designed to increase payload and reduce fuel consumption.
RE: My Pete rebuild - Nostalgic - 10-06-2018
(10-06-2018 )Chamberpains Wrote: You may want to have where the fuel tank straps ride beefed with an extra welded in piece of aluminum. Or at very least look in to 3M Weatherstripping adhesive to put between the tank and the rubber buffer that goes between the strap and the tank. It's not a bulletproof way of keeping dirt and road chemicals from getting between the strap and the tank and pitting holes in the tank, but it at least extends the some protection from it.
I thought about all of that, but won't know what it looks like until I drop them. Passenger side is dented up in front of and @ the front strap. New tanks are </= $1k. If there's any amount of substantial patching or repairing needed, I'm probably just going to put new ones on. I have little patience for cruddy fuel tanks after my boat's aluminum tank decided to blow a hole in a corroded spot and pour 100 gallons of gas into my bilge and cuddy. Of course then the bilge pump kicked on and made a gas fountain to accent what was already pouring out of the plug onto my freshly paved driveway lol. At least the truck doesn't need to be split in 2 to change tanks.
RE: My Pete rebuild - Chamberpains - 10-07-2018
Hahaha, That fuel bilge pump mis-hap puts a hilarious image in my head. Some real 3 stooges slap stick funny.
I think I caught that your over in western PA. So If you think your tanks are in any kind of shape to be repaired there is a shop in Selinsgrove, Pa that everyone in the capital area sends there tanks to including myself. I've sent 3 to have the ends cut off and baffles welded back in and strap areas thickened and patched plus 1 crumpled end completely replaced. PM me if your interested.
RE: My Pete rebuild - Mrkentee - 10-12-2018
On my 2010 386, when I put a Valley Chrome bumper on, it had to be all the way forward for the pitman arm not to hit. As opposed to being lined up with the front edge of the hood. It still looks ok like that.