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+--- Thread: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions (/showthread.php?tid=557)
Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - Hammerhead - 06-28-2016
So today I had the actuator off the turbo, and the arm cycles freely fully through its range, both obvious and using the gauge. It is squeaky as it moves throughout the range but it is smooth, there are no hang-ups or tough/sticky spots as it swings.
Should the turbo be replaced or is it fine for now?
Yes I have Insite/Inline so I did the proper install and calibration following instructions and every step/test passed.
Also since the turbo had no obvious failure I didn't remove it at this time, so I drilled and tapped the pyro port aft of the turbo, question regarding these GlowShift pyro's; they come with the probe radiused to 90*, can I un-bend it some for nice smooth wire running without destroying the probe? I assume so, but I thought I'd ask if anyone else has done this and had issues? I'd like to run it up to and along the lines above the engine than parallel along the exhaust pipe.
As per Rawze's advise I will be ordering a second sending unit to clamp directly to the manifold/turbo mating surface and putting it on a switch to see which I prefer or just to have both options..
[attachment=1620]
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - ynot - 06-28-2016
If the vgt is still sliding smoothly, an the compressor/turbine wheels have no back and forth and up down movement when you reach your hand in and try to move them, I'd still run that turbo.
I replaced my turbo a couple weeks ago cause the actuator was giving me trouble it wouldn't slide past 60% so my Jake brake was useless and so I just replaced the whole thing I've still got the old turbo someday I'll take it apart and see if it was the actuator or the vgt ring causing he problems.
I'm one of the i think few guys running two pyros, I don't know how guys are many are but I don't think it's very many. If your looking to get into playing with your motor and tweaking an tuning it and trying new things, I'd really recommend going with a digital gauge for the internal probe the level of precision they offer over an analogue gauge is awesome for tuning an tweaking, before I changed my turbo and looking at the temps of the internal pyro I could pretty much tell you the fuel rate I was at an could back off to save fuel or say OK I can give it a bit bit and not hurt my mpg too much. I don't even look at the probe on the outside of the manifold anymore unless I'm climbing a big long hill, and checking for heat soak.
Another plus for the digital gauge it's been extremely helpful slowly dialing in this custom monster of a vgt(I'm gonna start a thread about it someday soon) using the internal probe to get pin point egt's I can see how quickly they raising falling and using that too set.my boost so it's not spiking too crazy or using more then I need and of course making sure I'm using enough boost so she don't burn up.
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - ynot - 06-28-2016
Two pyros for the win!!
[attachment=1623]
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - Hammerhead - 06-28-2016
Oh, and a dumb question...how do you put more that one pic in a post? I'm using an iPad and if I try adding a second attachment, it just copies the first one?
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - ynot - 06-28-2016
Ya jist choose another file and add it, then insert it into the post. You'll know ots working when your start to see a list of files you've chosen at the bottom of the post that you can pick from too insert
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - Hammerhead - 06-28-2016
I was having a tapping sound coming from my engine in the 12-1400 rpm range, also my Jakes were taking a second or so to build up pressure. Cummins told me to try doing a top end set, sometimes that takes care of it. It reduced it but didn't eliminate it...so out came the rear rocker shaft. Number 4 & 5 detent holes have obvious wear in them. In went the new shaft and now I can't wait to get my rad back to hear my motor all quiet and tap free...
[attachment=1624]
Top is worn one, you can see the wear towards the upper side of the hole
Bottom is new replacement for comparison
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - snailexpress - 06-28-2016
(06-28-2016 )Hammerhead Wrote: I was having a tapping sound coming from my engine in the 12-1400 rpm range, also my Jakes were taking a second or so to build up pressure. Cummins told me to try doing a top end set, sometimes that takes care of it. It reduced it but didn't eliminate it...so out came the rear rocker shaft. Number 4 & 5 detent holes have obvious wear in them. In went the new shaft and now I can't wait to get my rad back to hear my motor all quiet and tap free...Do you replace shaft and rockers?
Top is worn one, you can see the wear towards the upper side of the hole
Bottom is new replacement for comparison
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - Mr Hagg - 06-28-2016
Hammer head a word to the wise. Remove the snap ring on the jake rockers and stretch the spring a bit. I put new shafts on one and it still clicked. SO I pulled the valve cover back off and ran it till I found the one clicking. So I removed it to find the spring was weak. The dealer said they didn't sell that part but I needed the whole thing at a cost about 350. So seeing nothing was really bad I removed the spring and stretched it. I also did the rest and man what a difference that made. THis is just my 2 cents of what I have done in the past.
RE: Turbo, Actuator, and Pyro questions - Wiseman - 06-28-2016
Hammerhead , if not too late replace both shafts and all six rocker detents ! They're really cheap . Detents are wearing on the edges too . Mine was the same as yours . Do em all . You're not going to regret.