Driveline noise/vibration

[JimT]

(01-08-2021 )Chamberpains Wrote:  Also coraseal and por-15 it all for another go round of a good chunk of a million miles.

Don't get me started on coraseal and por-15 right now. I have to completely repaint my oil pan as the coraseal + por-15 + red spray paint from my inframe is all peeling off, in large sections. I think the coraseal didn't bond well (maybe from the humidity? it is latex/water based) . Next time I might just try por-15 with a top coat of red paint.

[Chamberpains]

A clean dry surface. Absolutely no oil residue. Other than that it'll peal.

*****

When you drop the oil there should be only a small amount of fine shavings on the magnetic plug (normal wear) other than that your searching for chunks or a big wooly worm of shavings or usually both.

[Rawze]

(01-08-2021 )JimT Wrote:  Also, any opinions on the u-joints? Meritor vs Spicer?
...

if you have Merreitor drive shafts then you need Merritor U-joints. - if you have a Spicer drive shaft, then use Spicer u-joints.

[Rawze]

(01-08-2021 )JimT Wrote:  

(01-08-2021 )Chamberpains Wrote:  Also coraseal and por-15 it all for another go round of a good chunk of a million miles.

Don't get me started on coraseal and por-15 right now. I have to completely repaint my oil pan as the coraseal + por-15 + red spray paint from my inframe is all peeling off, in large sections. I think the coraseal didn't bond well (maybe from the humidity? it is latex/water based) . Next time I might just try por-15 with a top coat of red paint.

I have used that combo to paint a lot of metal things ... never have I seen it peel or flake off when its done right.

Must use lighter fluid (for any grease buildup), followed by some type of de-greaser to get rest of the oils off, followed by soap (dawn works well) and water, followed by a water-only scrub / scotchbrite pads to clean the metal very well. Acetone can be used but it must be followed by a scrub with water. ... bare metal ready to rust ... Otherwise it will not stick. No oil residues or even brake cleaner residue is allowed ... The correseal is a mild acid with a polemer that attacks the metal, seeps into the pores, and hardens like a plastic. The por-15 is ... well.. tough as all h%$ell nails. You can use the por-15 directly but my experience is that it is tougher when you apply the correseal first. The surface also needs to be well scuffed up for good adhesion too. Polished and smooth is not your friend when painting metal parts.

The correseal will turn the metal black when applied right. If there are any purple or lighter colored spots then it did not bond due to oily residue left on the metal.

Matter of fact, I replaced my own oil pan a few months ago. the new one was not painted at all. I corresealed it 1 coat, por-15'd it about 2 coats ... It is looking really good. A hammer would not chip that paint.

[Tanker93]

You said it all started after the carrier bearing was changed, I wonder if the shop that did the work didnt mark the driveshafts and put it back together 'out of phase'. These shafts are balanced together which means they can only go back together 1 way or you will have vibration/pulsation issues. Might pay to take the whole shaft assembly (Gearbox-front diff) off and give it to a drive line shop for them to balance. They couldve even put it back together the right way but accidentally knocked one of the weights off

[JimT]

I thought about that. Thing is I tried to change the bearing myself before bringing it down the street to the shop. (I didn't have an impact to get it off) So it had all the markings on it from me and I verified they all lined up afterward. Only thing I can think of is maybe it's mounted a little off center. Either way it was very minimal, but figured I'd mention it for completeness.

I had actually been reading other posts on here about driveline issues, center bearings and exactly what you mention prior to attempting it myself.

[Tanker93]

Id honestly just give it to a shop to balance. Seems too odd that the issue began straight after work was done on that component. You need to rule that out or you'll kick yourself later if that ends up being the issue.
Jack the drive axles up, put them on stands and run the truck up to see what happens, do this before and after the shaft is balanced.

You seem clued on enough but obviously practice with caution when doing so!

[JimT]

(01-08-2021 )Rawze Wrote:  

(01-08-2021 )JimT Wrote:  Also, any opinions on the u-joints? Meritor vs Spicer?
...

if you have Merreitor drive shafts then you need Merritor U-joints. - if you have a Spicer drive shaft, then use Spicer u-joints.

Not sure exactly what drive shafts are there, but the pete dealer was gonna supply Spicer products. They supplied a Spicer center/carrier bearing in the past. Those I mentioned above are listed as replacements for the meritor u-joints.

Is there a significant difference? There's a lot that's still new to me and I'm trying to learn as I go. Did some more searching and I can get the meritor parts at nearly the same cost as the spicer. So don't think price is a factor in my question here.

[Tanker93]

Ive used both brands many times. No issues with either on road train work in west Aus