Chinese under bunk diesel heater

[Waterloo]

(11-26-2022 )Silberstrom Wrote:  This isn't completely off topic. I recently found out that the espar d2 that is attached to the thermoking evaluation can be separated from the apu by ordering a controller and doing some rewiring. Thought I would pass along the knowledge.

I discovered the same too on the controls with the Evolution, you would need a new harness, $200 and the controller, I think around another $200 +/-.

I just cleaned and rebuilt my Airtronic D2, all of the Espar parts are on either eBay or Amazon. Did the gaskets, which I would recommend if you take the unit apart to clean. New glow pug, new fuel filter and the gasket set, then the filter in the fuel pump. I think everything was around $80 and an hour of my time cleaning and replacing parts.

I did purchase one the the less expensive fuel line kits for the hose clamps, $9, I would suggest doing that if you take your fuel pump off the truck to service. I had one of the fuel line clamps break on me, and they are not something you are going to find at your local hardware store, at least not at mine. Also, the stainless intake and exhaust tubes, I replaced those with the Chinesium ones, two pack, I think $20, they worked.

The mounting studs on the bottom of the Airtronic unit, three were toast. They used regular nuts on them, and they rusted up to the point it was a chore to remove them. So, I took the unit with me up to my local hardware and fitted the correct length stainless steel bolts. I think they were an M4 1.5 pitch. I believe roughly 1/2" to 3/4" in length.

I was surprised at how easy it was to rebuild one of these units, and not that expensive if you shop the parts. And the fuel pump, the screen in that is a big culprit if not changed out say every 18 months to two years, preferably in October before the snow flies.

I wish one of those Chinesium control boards and harnesses would work with the Airtronic units, many features that Airtronic does not offer.

[Silberstrom]

The service manager looked at me cross eyed when I asked if the bunk heater could be separated from the Apu, after a short explanation of why he understood and offered the information. I too serviced my d2 before it started to get cold however mine set some kind of a power code and wouldn't work. does anyone have a reliable source for the (e d i t h) software and connector? What i have found online are stupid expensive and doesn't make sense to purchase it for one heater. Honestly it would be far more cost effective to buy a new knock off every two years.

A quick service note: if you notice the heater starting to smoke run a good dose of Diesel clean thru the system usually will clear it up fairly quick. kerosene does the same however it's much easier to use the gray bottle.

[Rawze]

This is what I do to mine every year to keep it running healthy. Has not failed me in over a million miles ...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...0#pid31140

[snailexpress]

Found interesting channel from Estonia testing china heaters.
Click on CC and translate to English to have subtitles.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hor2G5qyBwY

[Waterloo]

(11-27-2022 )Rawze Wrote:  This is what I do to mine every year to keep it running healthy. Has not failed me in over a million miles ...
ref: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...0#pid31140

I did not know that about multiple failed starts... In my case, it was the external fuel filter at the little fuel pump, the screen in there did its job. It was completely plugged up, and it took quite a few years to get that way. I think if that little filter is changed out, say every couple of years, the need to rebuild one of these would be far and few between... No regrets rebuilding mine either, it was worthwhile to see how these little heaters operate.

[snailexpress]

(11-27-2022 )Silberstrom Wrote:  The service manager looked at me cross eyed when I asked if the bunk heater could be separated from the Apu, after a short explanation of why he understood and offered the information. I too serviced my d2 before it started to get cold however mine set some kind of a power code and wouldn't work. does anyone have a reliable source for the (e d i t h) software and connector? What i have found online are stupid expensive and doesn't make sense to purchase it for one heater. Honestly it would be far more cost effective to buy a new knock off every two years.

A quick service note: if you notice the heater starting to smoke run a good dose of Diesel clean thru the system usually will clear it up fairly quick. kerosene does the same however it's much easier to use the gray bottle.

Heater diagnostic dongle is $50 on Ebay.

[smorgan87]

(11-20-2022 )alborz Wrote:  

(11-20-2022 )smorgan87 Wrote:  I installed one on my camper. Havent found any problems aside from the normal too much heat if its not 0 or below out. I set it up to pull fresh air from outside instead of recycle air. The controller is a pain to set up as ya gotta really read the instructions to program it and learn your celsius conversions cause it does not display F.

What brand?

I dont remember the brand. It was either from amazon or fleabay. Red and black case. About the only thing i can see thats changed with em are the controllers.

[barf]

An update on my Chinesium one that I bought Oct. 2020. It died last month! The electric heater element to start it quit working. I was away from home, so I tried hot-wiring it directly, but crossed polarities and fried it real good. Oh well, it was getting to the point of being so cold that I almost needed the big engine running anyway. Got 2 years + out of it, and now it's all new again for less than $150.