2012 Volvo D13

[FLdriver]

Just picked up a 2012 D13. Is there something similar to the EGR Tune Up Rawze recommends for the Cummins? First one, got it for a stupid good deal so I'm going to give it a try.

[marek4792]

Pretty much the same deal like cummins.

[RollinCoal]

You can pick up used volvos from snider used trucks dirt cheap as well as AAA Cooper,
You need help with the D13 hit me up unfortunately Im pretty familiar with them lol

[hhow55]

Injector cup issues?

[FLdriver]

(06-27-2025 )RollinCoal Wrote:  You can pick up used volvos from snider used trucks dirt cheap as well as AAA Cooper,
You need help with the D13 hit me up unfortunately Im pretty familiar with them lol

Picked this one up for $4,600 at a bankruptcy auction. I wanted for a stepdeck they had, backed out last second and forgot I had made a prebid on it.Thought it needed the DEF sensors replaced. So far that's turned out to just someone not putting the little wire in the battery box back on after putting in new batteries. Now I just have to figure out why the VSS only works above 20mph

506k miles

[mikkhh]

Where I live those volvo trucks are cabovers. Lots of D13 engines last million miles before rebuild or any serious issues. It is not uncommon for those to be used for 55tons gross (sometimes even up to 80t) loads hauling logs.

BUT wiring issues are common on FH Volvo s on engine and on frame side.


4600 seems fair deal.

Tuneup wise clean the intake, wash egr cooler
If sensors are still factory originals from ten years ago or aftermarket junk then replace imap, back pressure sensor, differential pressure sensor. Those sensors must be genuine originals that are truck or engine manufacturer brand part since they are crucial to ensure correct fuelling for the engine.

I have tried cheap junk aftermarket sensors on my own equipment. Tested on tier4 deere 4.5l engine imap sensor that was brand new aftermarket read 0psi of boost with engine running at idle, good working sensor readed 0.3psi of boost at idle. BUT when revving engine to redline at standstill aftermarket sensor showed 11psi of boost, known good one 4psi of boost. Genuine part costs 10x more than aftermarket crap that is not working. Same 10-30x price difference on def injector. Guy at the parts store showed me that they have sold lots of these aftermarket sensors and I am the only person to complain...

Since this Volvo is old and has seen life you should have the exhaust dpf, doc cans baked or wet cleaned (BUT it is the last resort final clean, after that filter is junk, since you are washing away the precious metals). After that last clean filter should last you 100k-200k miles.

https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=27

Read that article, there are two links, one link has videos too. It does not matter what make model mandated engine it is, the emissions systems need to be regularly maintained to keep them operating. If you are diy you should clean imap, back pressure sensor YEARLY and monitor the readings to make sure those sensors are reading properly.


Since there are all kinds of exhaust filters you are not going to immediately notice black smoke or something else being wrong with engine running improperly, but instead you are going to get all kinds of emissions related faults, dpf alarms and so on.

[hhow55]

(06-28-2025 )mikkhh Wrote:  Where I live those volvo trucks are cabovers. Lots of D13 engines last million miles before rebuild or any serious issues. It is not uncommon for those to be used for 55tons gross (sometimes even up to 80t) loads hauling logs.

BUT wiring issues are common on FH Volvo s on engine and on frame side.


4600 seems fair deal.

Tuneup wise clean the intake, wash egr cooler
If sensors are still factory originals from ten years ago or aftermarket junk then replace imap, back pressure sensor, differential pressure sensor. Those sensors must be genuine originals that are truck or engine manufacturer brand part since they are crucial to ensure correct fuelling for the engine.

I have tried cheap junk aftermarket sensors on my own equipment. Tested on tier4 deere 4.5l engine imap sensor that was brand new aftermarket read 0psi of boost with engine running at idle, good working sensor readed 0.3psi of boost at idle. BUT when revving engine to redline at standstill aftermarket sensor showed 11psi of boost, known good one 4psi of boost. Genuine part costs 10x more than aftermarket crap that is not working. Same 10-30x price difference on def injector. Guy at the parts store showed me that they have sold lots of these aftermarket sensors and I am the only person to complain...

Since this Volvo is old and has seen life you should have the exhaust dpf, doc cans baked or wet cleaned (BUT it is the last resort final clean, after that filter is junk, since you are washing away the precious metals). After that last clean filter should last you 100k-200k miles.

https://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?tid=27

Read that article, there are two links, one link has videos too. It does not matter what make model mandated engine it is, the emissions systems need to be regularly maintained to keep them operating. If you are diy you should clean imap, back pressure sensor YEARLY and monitor the readings to make sure those sensors are reading properly.


Since there are all kinds of exhaust filters you are not going to immediately notice black smoke or something else being wrong with engine running improperly, but instead you are going to get all kinds of emissions related faults, dpf alarms and so on.

I'm thinking the diesel fuel lubricity where you are located is more favorable than here in the states. If that is the case it certainly reveals why the service of your equipment is more trouble free.