X15 Turbo Actuator failure?

[SquareOne]

Got the actuator knocked out yesterday (1/27). First time I had done one on the Cummins, and it was fairly straight forward for those who are in need of replacing theirs. I believe I spent more time trying to get my Insite to connect then actually installing/calibrating the actuator through the program...guess that's the result of the Chinesium adapter. Typically takes me 4-5 tries before it connects.

I was a little concerned with the Turbo possibly having issues, but once the actuator was removed, the arm swept from hash mark to hash mark with minimal effort.

Hooked up the actuator (off the turbo), ran the 'install' option through Insite... then installed the actuator onto the turbo, and ran the 'calibrate'. Ran both 'install' and 'Calibrate' cycles twice. Both were quick to complete the action. Cleared stored codes, filled up the coolant and will be hitting the road shortly to see if all is well.

**BTW, the HD Turbo place Mr Hag recommended was a great option so far. I gave them a shout once I got the part number from quickserve. Person I spoke to seemed very knowledgeable. They had the actuator to me in just a few days (even with this crazy snow storm we had down south). New bolts, o-rings, a variety of seals and grease, along with a prepaid label for the core to be shipped back. All in (as long as the core is good) this job should be about around $980 w/18gal of coolant.

[SquareOne]

So it looks like my other truck (cm2350) will be in need of the Turbo and/or actuator. It has over 900k on the original and it just hung up again (this is the 3rd time in a year. Took a few key cycles to straighten it out). I'm definitely on borrowed time before it acts up and doesn't 'self' recover.

Question for anyone who's purchased a reman setup recently... are you all still using YTS out of Griffin, or has anyone used HD Turbo (place Mr. Hag recommended earlier in the post) instead?

I recently used HD Turbo for the actuator on my X15 and have nothing but good things to say about my experience dealing with them. Debating on using them for the turbo/actuator on my cm2350 as well... Thoughts?

[Rawze]

(Today )SquareOne Wrote:  So it looks like my other truck (cm2350) will be in need of the Turbo and/or actuator. It has over 900k on the original and it just hung up again (this is the 3rd time in a year. Took a few key cycles to straighten it out). I'm definitely on borrowed time before it acts up and doesn't 'self' recover.

Question for anyone who's purchased a reman setup recently... are you all still using YTS out of Griffin, or has anyone used the (place Mr. Hag recommended earlier in the post) instead?

I recently used HD for the actuator on my X15 and have nothing but good things to say about my experience dealing with them. Debating on using them for the turbo/actuator on my cm2350 as well... Thoughts?

I have seen good and bad from them. My choice would still be OEM, or YTS if you want to go non-oem, but that is just me.

[SquareOne]

(Today )Rawze Wrote:  ...I have seen good and bad from them. My choice would still be OEM, or YTS if you want to go non-oem, but that is just me.

Thanks for the reply. I haven't considered new or priced them out. I'd imagine a new cost would be fairly high compared to the reman. I'll give my dealer in this area a shout just to see where they land on price.

I remember awhile back you mentioning you had just installed the 2nd turbo on your truck (from YTS)... are you still running that one? I'd imagine it would have nearly 800k or so miles currently if so.

[tree98]

Personally I would just be suspicious of how much of there stuff has Chinese finger prints on it.

And when it comes to turbos, are they actually getting the shafts balanced as well as they need to be?? Are they using all genuine holset parts??

[marek4792]

I've never had luck with the oil seals on my turbo mandated and not.

[Rawze]

(Today )marek4792 Wrote:  I've never had luck with the oil seals on my turbo mandated and not.

Turbo turbine seals are not supposed to be designed for 100% oil tight. They are not made of rubber, but turkon.. made for extreme high speeds without galling up.

Crank case pressure buildup is the number one cause of turbo bleeding oil. Second is it not spinning fast enough at idle and getting a vacuum on the intake.