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J_Rok · 01-13-2025, **(Subject: 120 ohms at Deutsch connector )**

Hello everyone I’m looking for some advice on how to get back down to 60 ohms at the triangular connector right at the engine. It’s a 2014 Peterbilt 2350 de mandated, everything is in tact emission wise including the egr cooler. (The exhaust by passes all the cans.) The truck still has the VG turbo on it and working. I’ve looked all over for the second terminating resistor that’s supposed to be near the def tank or dpf filter. I found a blue plug near the DEF tank but no resistor nearby. I’m wondering if I can buy a resistor and wire it in myself somewhere after the VG turbo? Or what would my options be? Just don’t want to fry a turbo actuator. I’ve attached a couple pics of what I found near the DeF tank where I have it unplugged both sides of that connector go into the ball of tape in the first picture, could the resistor be in under that tape? Also I had 120 ohms at the blue female plug but open lead at the male plug.
Any help is greatly appreciated thanks!

Mal4shtf · 01-13-2025, **(Subject: 120 ohms at Deutsch connector )**

Is that not a terminating resistor in your pic? Looks like on but I may be wrong. One of your resistors has failed if your getting exactly 120 ohms gross circuit resistance batteries disconnected. The other resistor is usually behind the gauges in a pete. Pm for a diagram or any other support.

Rawze · 01-14-2025, **(Subject: 120 ohms at Deutsch connector )**

(01-13-2025 )Mal4shtf Wrote: Is that not a terminating resistor in your pic? Looks like on but I may be wrong. One of your resistors has failed if your getting exactly 120 ohms gross circuit resistance batteries disconnected. The other resistor is usually behind the gauges in a pete. Pm for a diagram or any other support.

There are multiple networks on the vehicle...

He is referring to can-buss #2 (engine harness), not the can-buss #1 (vehicle harness) under the dash of the vehicle.

Rawze · 01-14-2025, **(Subject: 120 ohms at Deutsch connector )**

(01-13-2025 )J_Rok Wrote: Hello everyone I’m looking for some advice on how to get back down to 60 ohms at the triangular connector right at the engine. It’s a 2014 Peterbilt 2350 de mandated, everything is in tact emission wise including the egr cooler. (The exhaust by passes all the cans.) The truck still has the VG turbo on it and working. I’ve looked all over for the second terminating resistor that’s supposed to be near the def tank or dpf filter. I found a blue plug near the DEF tank but no resistor nearby. I’m wondering if I can buy a resistor and wire it in myself somewhere after the VG turbo? Or what would my options be? Just don’t want to fry a turbo actuator. I’ve attached a couple pics of what I found near the DeF tank where I have it unplugged both sides of that connector go into the ball of tape in the first picture, could the resistor be in under that tape? Also I had 120 ohms at the blue female plug but open lead at the male plug.
Any help is greatly appreciated thanks!

where exactly the aftertreatment can#2 j1939 terminating resistor is on a vehicle can vary.

No, you cannot just put it right at the turbo. The terminating resistors go at each end of the network.

Think if it like a clothes line with a post at each end holding it up. A post (resistor) goes at each end of it... and each article of clothing is a device (turbo, ecm, egr valve, etc.) connected to it along its length.

The turbo controller itself has one of the terminating resistors built in, as it is at one far end of the line. The other one is like you said, down under the vehicle usually near one of the after-treatment components.

Since some moron unplugged the whole harnesses to those cans, the next best place to put it would be to add it right near where the harness was disconnected going down to the systems that are now unplugged/missing. You will have to track down the network twisted pair and add it (or near) at that connector.

Instead of any old 120-ohm resistor, I would find one on Amazon, or at an auto parts store, with proper plug/socket .. and use that .. so that it has a proper delphi connector that is weather/salt/corrosion sealed, etc.

Truckdriven · 01-14-2025, **(Subject: 120 ohms at Deutsch connector )**

Funny I just ran into this issue yesterday on a KW with a CM2350, in this case it appeared the resistor was located in the def tank module itself cause the blue plug you pictured had nothing in, just a seal cap. I pull the canbus pins out of the main bulkhead plug at the def tank and, installled a deutsch terminating resister and verified 60ohms at the engine data plug. I would expect a peterbilt would be the same way

The Deutsch resistor P/N is DTM06-2S-P006. Google search will give you multiple sources to buy.
This is a pin size 20 and the ones on the original harness are 16 so I had to install new terminals and the proper housing so this plugs in since I wasn't able to find any with a 16 pin size

J_Rok · 01-14-2025, **(Subject: 120 ohms at Deutsch connector )**

Thanks to all for the replies on this, Rawze I found an earlier thread with a link to Amazon on which resistor to buy so I ordered that one. The confusing part here is that everything is still plugged in for the DEF tank, SCR and DPF in fact I can’t find anything unplugged. It could be a wiring issue I suppose, I did quite a bit of looking around and couldn’t find it but I might have to keep on looking. I just wish I could find the end of the network that’s supposed to be underneath the truck, would make it easier for me to troubleshoot. Truckdriven you be able to point me in the right direction as to what the main bulk head looks like at the DEF tank?