New truck demandated file

[HamblinTrucking]

Hello everyone, I am new and still learning how to demandate. When I say rookie, I mean ROOKIE.

First thing first, I just bought a 2012 KW T660. I bought it from a friend because it was a deal and I know what was done to it. I has 500k on it and its already demandated, though I know its a bad demandate. This engine was completely overhauled at 4xx,xxx (not sure exactly when but, late 2019 early 2020). Full overhaul including cylinder head, rockers, injectors, injection pump, gear pump, fuel lines, radiator, etc. The guy that owned it really takes care of his stuff.

My old truck is a 2012 with the same CPL, so I compared files. I had the same CL10138 file in both. My old truck was originally a 10135 and the KW is a 10136. Going through the file, it appears to me they changed things until they got the check engine lights off. They didn't even turn the smart torque off, nor did they raise the turbo krpm limit. They didn't change hardly any thing other than the emissions things. The vgt llim table looks very guessed and basic. Also I have already noticed it probably is going into different operating modes as sometimes when you start it the vgt spools real high and other times it doesnt. I can tell its being derated but, there are no engine lights or codes. The truck got a new ecm because there was an issue and it didnt have a tag on it. I just looked up the CL on quickserve. I know the 10135 and 10138 are compatable, with the exception of turning off smart torque. Not sure about the 10136.

I know just enough to get into trouble. I can change very limited amounts of things. The file i have in my truck was made by someone on here and I know its a good file. I have also studied hard enough and learned enough from talking to a guy on here, that I can tell this tune needs changed for me to have this thing last. My old truck is a Cascadia and I know that airflow through the cac is different on the two. I am not going to flash a file into the KW without consulting one of you experts on here. As I said, I'm a rookie and I want this truck to last me a while.

If anyone would be so kind to take some time to look at this file, I would greatly appreciate it. Also, old truck is manual and new one is Auto. I know there is one parameter I could find that selected the transmission. There has to be more differences that just that one parameter.

2013 KW T660
CPL 3719
CL10136 (currently CL10138.37)
79609007

[Rawze]

---Assuming you live in a foreign country where that stuff is ok to do...

*A) The Bad program in ECM needs to be backed up using CT software. This way you have it in case a truck-specific/dash setting gets lost. The bad program is otherwise useless.

*B) Using the Insite software, performing an ECM Backup and ECM Template will save the truck specific settings (if they are still valid).

*C) ECM needs to be flashed back 100% factory to latest file for that engine and truck according to the engine ser#. DO NOT UP-RATE IT BY USING A DIFFERENT PROGRAM!. Power/torque can be changed later on. it is better to have the exact match program for your engine and truck. This can be done at most truck stealers$its via a "bench flash" if you take the ecm off the truck and to them. All dash and truck settings need to be backed up/restored during the reflash as well. Taking the ECM off side of engine to have bench flashed at a stealers$it for few hundred bucks is easiest solution for most ppl. it will also ensure the latest software updates for the engine too. The ECM has to come off the truck, because once it is flashed back to factory programming, and the truck de-mandated.. it will not make it out of the parking lot. Its best just to bring them the ECM.

*D) If you have the proper truck specific settings backed up (from step *B), then doing an ECM Template Restore with Insite to restore all the truck specific settings should be applied to the now clean, factory file. Otherwise, you will have to rely on the stealers#it restoring these settings properly. sometimes they get it right, sometimes not.

*E) --= AFTER BEING FLASHED BACK TO FACTORY PROGRAMMING... The Engine/ecm needs to run on the newly flashed factory program for 10 minutes. it does not ahve to idle.. just key-on. this is because it takes about 8+ minutes to re-establish all the correct ram memory settings, clear everything out on the background etc. after a fresh flash. . ANY time an ECM is flashed with a virgin factory program, it will need this step. ... it does not matter if it has any emissions error codes, the ECM just needs to run (key-on) a bit to restore/renew/clean out all the ram memory again.

*F) After the 10 minutes of run time ... Key-off for 2 minutes so that the ECM will fully shut down one time before connecting Calterm to it.

*G) The new factory program, after having more than 10 minutes of key-on time on it ... can then be pulled out with CT ... and overlayed with a decent, proper de-mandate. if it is a CM2250, that overlay is free, and has been on the internet for a few years now. It is amazing that these rip-off shops will not use somethng propperly made.. but garbage that they get scammed out of thousands of $$ insuead. becaue of all the crooks on the auto tuning forums out there. - god forbid people find out that they can de-mandate their own jus=nk.. properly.. without all the back-water crap... eh? -- Anyhow, I recommend you e-mail whatever result, if you do this yourself me for verification so the it is established to be 100% it is correct and safe for your engine. It can also be updated, etc. if needed. I cal also Apply any power/torque changes (within safe boundaries) as desired while it is being inspected. For Cm2350's and newer engines.. those files are not public on the internet so if the clean factory file that was pulled again with CT is sent to me, I can do it for someone.

*H) Ensuring all the exhaust is properly hollow to the bare metal. THIS INCLUDES THAT the SCR is 100% gutted too. Many of the bad delete shops do not bother to gut that SCR properly and it always clogs up after a while and causes severe engine damage!. Some of these places don't even bother with them at all. Some places, insyead of maiking them bare to the metal all the way.. will only make small holes (amlost as bad) and all sorts of other half-arssed methods are used, none of which is correct and lead to bigger problems down the road. . - ALL OF THE EXHAUST SYSTEM needs to be 100% to the bare metal and as free-flowing as absolutely possible to prevent and heat buildup in the turbo and engine.

*I) Ensuring proper quality block plate(s) are installed to prevent EGR gas form entering into the intake.

*J) Removing the butterfly valve body if the intake throttle device.

*K) Replacing the crank case filter with a maintenance free one from cummins, as the sensor for it will no longer be active.

*J) Putting the corrected file back in and test driving the vehicle to ensure boost is not excessive under full operating load vs the model ISX that you have.