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gatow900

(01-18-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote:
(01-17-2017 )gatow900 Wrote: I use a nail to pull my injectors and for the oil in the bolt holes I just screw the bolt by it self in to squeeze out the oil
gatow900, just to clarify, I assume you bend the nail at a 90* near the tip and insert it into the removing dowel hole and pull/lift to extract the injector from the bore.
Is that correct?

Sorry for late reply. I use the flat end and put it between the injector and the head and just pry slowly around the injector

gatow900

(01-18-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote:
(01-17-2017 )gatow900 Wrote: I use a nail to pull my injectors and for the oil in the bolt holes I just screw the bolt by it self in to squeeze out the oil
gatow900, just to clarify, I assume you bend the nail at a 90* near the tip and insert it into the removing dowel hole and pull/lift to extract the injector from the bore.
Is that correct?

Sorry for late reply. I use the flat end and put it between the injector and the head and just pry slowly around the injector

Hammerhead

10-4! Thanks for the nail tip. I used one of my little prybars, it popped them slick as butter.
Well my injector bubble tester came in today at 11:30, so I walked over to KW and picked it up. I did the bubble test and the same two injectors that were leaking previously were still the only ones leaking. Better to test than guess.
Out came the rocker shafts, cleaned the oil out of the head as best as a turkey baster can, wiped, and wiped, and wiped, and pulled the two culprit injectors. Bores looked nice & clean, as best I could tell with a flashlight and no boroscope. Walked back over to KW and swapped them two leaky ones for two Genuine Premium ReMan, whatever the hell that means, and walked back to Morton's T/S and popped two shiny new all coated in Vaseline injectors into their bores. Clamped & torqued them down to spec, and cleaned up because the sun was setting. I put a towel over the motor and closed the hood, and put a towel and plastic bag over the rocker cover and shafts for the night.
I want to make sure I do a very thorough job of properly cleaning out the rocker shaft bolt holes before I reinstall them. And I want good daylight, not gloomy parking lot lamp light to do the valve adjustment correctly.
Snailexpress says he should be by sometime tomorrow morning with the correct torque wrench to properly set the injector pre-load, and I should be good as, well I can be...

Hammerhead

First off, big thanks to snailexpress! He stopped by the T/S today and handed me an in/lb dial torque wrench to set my injector pre-load! Thank you!

Now, this sucks! The sound I was hearing is still there. I'm stuck and am looking for help.
The noise I hear sounds kind of like a miss or cold fire piston knock, it comes in about 1475 through 1650 rpm with over 20psi of boost. You can still hear it above 1650, but it's not nearly as crisp/sharp.
To me it sounds like a slight miss, which was why I thought injector. It may well still be.
I did an injector cut out test while driving. And it isn't distinguishable enough to positively say "Yes, when I cutout number X, it doesn't change so that's it.
So I did the cylinder cutout test while parked, and yes it will run on one cylinder at a time, each cylinder individually.
I did the "Cylinder performance test" in Insite, it passed all 6 cyls.
I did the injector leak test in Insite, all 6 passed.
I used SomeTerm to override the turbo to 90% closing and couldn't find any leaks.
I did the injector bubble test, and the same two injectors that I knew were leaking previously were still the only two leaking. #2 made a small bubble while barring, #6 would only move the water line, no bubble.
Number 2 & 6 injectors were replaced.
Everything all adjusted up and test drive, the sound is still there.
As stated in my previous post, I noticed about a 3-4 psi boost drop. The pyro was slightly higher than baseline. And the coolant and oil seem to heat up faster than before. I added 2 jugs of PS Diesel Kleen in Wells, NV. The sound never went away, but I noticed by boost was back to normal, and power seemed to return. I fueled again in Hesperia, CA and again added 2 jugs of PS Diesel Kleen. After delivering in LA and running empty back out to Hesperia, I noticed boost and power down again. This was why I was fairly certain of an injector being fowled up.

Any thoughts or advise for directions?
It's raining here right now, when it stops I am going to unplug the actuators and connect Insite to observe the gear pump fuel pressure. Am I barking up the wrong tree?

Running rough

Fuel flow restriction, sucking air, check your pickup tubes in tanks, ECM cooling plate bad orings on conections, primer pump gasket, something stuck in metering or timing actuaters, bad ECM?

Running rough

I have heard of a guy who installed an engine heater and the shop who did it left Metel or aluminum drillings in his fuel thanks, it did the same thing your describing, he had to clean his fuel thanks free of debris

Hammerhead

No drilling has occurred in my tanks.
How would you suggest I check for air suction on the road?
I don't pack my whole shop with me, I try but it just won't all fit.
The fuel tank suction lines are pretty easy for me to check, I have tank isolator valves so I can Shh one off at a time and go try it.
There are no fuel leaks at on or around the actuators, ECM cooling plate are connections that are visible.

Rawze

(01-20-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote: No drilling has occurred in my tanks.
How would you suggest I check for air suction on the road?
I don't pack my whole shop with me, I try but it just won't all fit.
The fuel tank suction lines are pretty easy for me to check, I have tank isolator valves so I can Shh one off at a time and go try it.
There are no fuel leaks at on or around the actuators, ECM cooling plate are connections that are visible.

At some point when your truck is no longer reliable and running healthy, you have to face the fact that you may need to shut it down and fix it instead of trying to patch it on the roads. -- I.E. bobtail or run it empty to where you can work on it properly, or go get it fixed somewhere correctly. -- Hell,.. for all you know, you may have a spun/weak bearing, or bent rod, or a slipped cam, although I am leaning towards what some of the the other guys say, ... You likely have air getting in the fuel system, or an injector that has partially failed, etc.- it could even be a fouled metering or timing actuator.

==========

I had someone over not too long ago that had a CM870 with low boost, ran like crap, etc. .. and swore it was the programming or a derate that no one could pinpoint. I told him that it was not likely, after all he had done,.. and that he likely had a leak somewhere. -- He had a brand new CAC, and a lot of other work done, including a new turbo put on. -- He took it to Mr.Hag and had entire engine pressure tested and it revealed he had a massive leak in that brand new CAC unit. -- Point being, that something may have failed, but not enough for you to find while tinkering with it on the road at idle.

Johnboy

Check the fuel filters I have seen the davcos threaded ring loosen up and cause problems but for good measure change them anyway if you haven't already also have you considered winter blend fuel?
I'm not being a smart @ss every year it throws me for a loop with something poor performance, hard starts, fuel milage, just thoughts here its not always a mechanical problem lots of times it's something simple. I'm not saying you don't have a mechanical issue just throwing that out there.