uploaded some new Videos

[Rawze]

I uploaded some video series on replacing my hub bearing on my prostar. Maybe others can use it to help them out there.






In Video 5 of 7, I forgot to lube the seal before installing it, though I have never had trouble putting them on dry.
-- Here is a reference video...

https://youtu.be/PXHqCEuHu00

[in2trux]

Rawze, you are truly the gift that keeps giving!

I wish we had this video to show the "mechanics" in my father in law's shop 20 years ago! The shop serviced a major flatbed carrier with over 500 trailers, now defunct. The brothers passed on and without the old school wisdom, imploded.

My father in law was an authorized Fontaine warranty repair shop that had 16 trailers in the bays on any given day. WITHOUT FAIL, 2 -3 trailers would come back every week for leaking wheel seals after a major brake job & PM.

PAY ATTENTION TO THE "CLEAN" parts! Every single step you show is best practice, anyone can do it, IF, you follow the steps.
Taking time to seat wheel seals properly will keep you from doing it again in a few weeks AND save you the cost of new seals AND the new brake shoes that had to be thrown out because they got soaked! Let's not forget the labor of doing it all over.

BTW, CRC, good stuff! You can never use too much assembly lube! They've been around as long as I can remember, 40 years?

I like your BFTB torque bar. Where did you get it? I've been borrowing and need to buy one.
Everyone needs a, BFH, (Big F__G Hammer)
BFSD, (Big F__G Screwdriver) and a BFTB!

[Coco620]

Thank you Rawze! Everything you post helps us at one point or other...question, how do you like those balancers? Worth the investment? Thanks again

[Rawze]

(03-25-2016 )Coco620 Wrote:  Thank you Rawze! Everything you post helps us at one point or other...question, how do you like those balancers? Worth the investment? Thanks again

they are ok, though I think at this point, that balancing beads are a better choice.

[Kid Rock]

From my years of skateboarding in my early youth, i was always using words like bearings, kingpins, and bushings because they were all important parts of the skateboard. never knew i would be using the same terms in diesel trucking as a business owner! lol life is good

I know its a big difference form skateboarding to trucking but in skateboard world ball bearings were very important and would be the main determining factor of how fast you could go on a good set of wheels. There were bearings rated at ABEC3, ABEC5, ABEC7 all the way up to SWISS, and SWISS ceramics... With a set of ABEC3's in the wheel you could push and push and push and struggle to get anywhere lol, good for beginners but not the seasoned rider. now a rider whos been around the block a few times and could afford to throw a set of $65-$100 SWISS CERAMIC bearings had IT MADE. Im talking night and day compared to the lower grade bearings. This rider could "drop in" on a ramp at a skatepark and just use the momentum of his/her body to pump around the park and not even have to push much...

this makes me wonder how much more fuel efficient our rigs could be with the right bearings... class 8 bearings take an enormous amount of daily strain and im sure the engineering behind making a super efficient ball bearing and one that can live 900K + miles would be a extreme task.. maybe they are already this efficient but I wonder if more importantance should be put on the efficiency of the bearing?... Now we wouldn't need rigs rolling so freely that new drivers would be smoking breaks left and right but a happy medium leaning towards a more free resistance...

PS THANKS RAWZE U BE THE MAN! NOW I FINALLY KNOW WHAT THE INSIDE OF MY HUBS LOOK LIKE :)

[kryten]

Rawze - You forgot 1 thing and forgot to mention another. You never showed reinstalling the bearing spacer, not even sure if it's required, and you never mentioned hub end play. If I remember right you showed how to check end play in your brake reline video.

[Rawze]

(03-25-2016 )kryten Wrote:  Rawze - You forgot 1 thing and forgot to mention another. You never showed reinstalling the bearing spacer, not even sure if it's required, and you never mentioned hub end play. If I remember right you showed how to check end play in your brake reline video.

Thanks..

I left the spacer out on purpose. i was told that the new bearings did not require it.


I did not do end play, as I torqued it to 50 ft-lbs pre-load. Like you say as well, it is in the brake video if someone wants to check it.

Hub nut torque for bearings without spacers = 50-ft lbs. Bearings WITH spacers = 230 ft-lbs.

I would think that with spacers, you would want to check hub end play just to be sure, but with no spacers, there will be no end play at 50-ft-lbs.

[dbl overdrive]

Awesome video. Now I'm going for it. I've got a weeping seal on the rear drive.
I'll wait for the wife to go to work so she don't complain about her oven to bad. Lol. Gives me a reason to clean it afterwards.
I think she'll be in shock when she sees the clean oven.
Thanks again.

[simon999]

Thanks for awesome videeo. I was impressed that no wheel seal driver tool needed, that seal could just simply hammered.