Threaded Mode | Linear Mode

JMBT

Ok, Volvo, CM2250, accessing the vibe dampener for replacement. I have removed all of the things I thought would allow me enough access for replacing the vibe dampner from the drivers side of the engine compartment. (Inner fender, power steering reservoir, steering shaft,..etc.) And I can still barely touch the bolts on the front pully! Albeit I have short arms but WTF!!
There is no access from the bottom and the passenger side is useless as well.
It looks like to have a shot at this I will have to remove the whole front structure. (Hood, AC condenser, CAC, top tank, radiator, and fan) If that is the case should I wait until I am ready to do the fan, CAC, radiator or something else that would require removing that much? Or just tear it all down for the vibe dampner itself? The truck has 620K, but is running smooth and I am missing loads, good loads, right now on a daily basis.

Has anyone done a vibe dampner on a Volvo with a 2250? Please tell me I am missing something!!

Thanks

dhirocz

When I did mine, I had to reach in blind and feel my way around the bolts from the driver's side after making some room. Took a good bit of time. Didn't help that it was rusted in place as well. Getting it off the first time was a huge PITA. Yeah, you can pretty much forget bottom and passenger side access.

If I had to do it over again, I'd pop off the bonnet and pull the front structure. It would take me less time, but now I've gotten pretty good at removing it without removing much else. Just remember, yours might be rusted on too, and the front structure being on while arguing with a frozen damper will be an aggrivating experience to deal with.

If you haven't done the front seal recently, now would be a good time. I did mine without the fancy puller, front structure in place. Again, not fun.

Front structure removal isn't too bad if you have a helper and your hardware isn't rusty. Mine was I replaced it with stainless. Drain your coolant into some buckets with a spout lid and pull it all off. Once you do it, you'll see how easy it really is. I thought it would have been harder but won't hesitate next time.

JMBT

Thanks Dchirocz, good to know that it is possible with the front in place. I have had the front structure out on two other occasions but was hoping to do this job without having to pull all that. Snapped a pic with my phone and the front of the pully looks rust and corrosion free which is a good sign. I know it could still be bound to the crank nose though.
The truck you a speaking of was a Volvo?

Zusky407

If you could snap and post some pics of the procedure that would be much appreciated.

dhirocz

No, the truck I was referring to was my t2000 but it should be fairly similar.

Alot of guys I've known when I was wrenching, myself included, make the mistake of thinking they will save time by not removing things in the way of what they are working on, thinking that it will save them time. What usually happens is it costs you 3x the time you thought you were going to save.

If you think it would be easier to do with the hood and radiator out, then pull them off. It'll give you a chance to inspect and service things that are much harder with the nose on the truck, too. Biggest thing to fear is rusty hardware the first time you go to disassemble it.

To be honest, that is the only reason I didn't do that when I swapped my damper out. Now knowing what I know, I could have saved myself the 5 hours of wiggling to free the damper by just pulling the front structure. Not much in that area as a good pry point to motivate that thing loose. DONT pry on the cover unless you want to replace that too!

Hammerhead

If your truck is running fine without excess vibrations...and you're currently missing loads, that's a "wait for a more appropriate time" job all day.

My rear structure (flywheel housing gasket) is leaking and it pisses me off, but when I was about to drop the tranny and take 4 or 5 days to do it, inspect and replace all the wiring & plumbing securement between the tranny and frame, and go through the tranny all at the same time over Christmas/New Years, the phone rang with a load that paid 20% over normal...have I mentioned my rear structure is still leaking? It is planned for this Christmas/New Years now.

Waterloo

(09-27-2017 )Hammerhead Wrote: If your truck is running fine without excess vibrations...and you're currently missing loads, that's a "wait for a more appropriate time" job all day.

My rear structure (flywheel housing gasket) is leaking and it pisses me off, but when I was about to drop the tranny and take 4 or 5 days to do it, inspect and replace all the wiring & plumbing securement between the tranny and frame, and go through the tranny all at the same time over Christmas/New Years, the phone rang with a load that paid 20% over normal...have I mentioned my rear structure is still leaking? It is planned for this Christmas/New Years now.

Bingo. I hate to say this, but take it to a shop for the Damper. Pay the few hundred bucks and get back to work, been there, and done that. There are some things that one should tackle, and then there are these times. Shop time vs Lost Revenue. Sorry, just me.

JMBT

Thanks for all the input and advice guys! I put things back together today, had a few other projects going including replacing all the studs on the steer hubs and a few very difficult to get to metal coolant lines on the passenger side of the motor. Everything is buttoned back up now and ready to go.
My dampner is primed, painted, marked, clear coated and ready to install when I make it back. At that time I will pull the front structure, and incorporate a fan rebuild and front main seal into the dampner job. For now I gotta go chase that dollar!

Hammerhead

(09-27-2017 )JMBT Wrote: Thanks for all the input and advice guys! I put things back together today, had a few other projects going including replacing all the studs on the steer hubs and a few very difficult to get to metal coolant lines on the passenger side of the motor. Everything is buttoned back up now and ready to go.
My dampner is primed, painted, marked, clear coated and ready to install when I make it back. At that time I will pull the front structure, and incorporate a fan rebuild and front main seal into the dampner job. For now I gotta go chase that dollar!

Good choice. My oil leak, like your damper probably does, frustrates me. But it isn't causing severe detrimental damage, and that is how I make these decisions.