uploaded some new Videos

[Rawze]

Just remember your supposed to put a bit of regular oil on edges of seal when you install it. I didn't do that in video. Watch the SKF video I provided as a link and follow that for installing it.

[dbl overdrive]

This is a bit of info I learned while doing my wheel seals this week and maybe it helps someone else too.
The sleeve inside the hub is called a crush sleeve.
It is a one time use component. If you replace your seals,you must replace this sleeve as well. I have seen many shops re use it and it is the number one cause of bearing failure and seal failure in that style of rear end. They will also cause the spindle to wear prematurely due to improper bearing load.
I removed mine and went old school like Rawze's. I still have one on the front axel but the end play was in spec so I didn't mess with it. The job was a breeze thanks to Rawze's video and some research and talking with other mechanics.
I had to by the tools but it was still cheaper and I know it's done correctly.

[Waterloo]

The bearing races, how much does it cost to have the old ones taken out and new ones installed? My kitchen is not set up for cooking parts in the oven... But, I could go out and buy an electric stove and easily install in my garage, as the wiring is already there along with my freezer... ;-)

[Unilevers]

the hubs with the spacer are called LMS hubs. they are a torque up and forget hub, but removing the spacer and just running them without it is not really the way to go either. yes ive done it and yes it works, but the design of the LMS hubs is different than the older manual end play hubs. That is a crush sleeve as well as a spacer for dissimilar metals. i have personally seen a hub crack and fall apart and the lack of the sleeve was blamed. now how many people just throw em out - many. how many actually break - very few. But after seeing that one come apart - i always put the sleeve back in. The OEM recommends replacing the sleeve every time but that is crap - ive done thousands of hubs and measured end play thousands of times on old spacers/sleeves and never seen one loose after the proper torquing procedure.

The stemco seals are supposed to be installed DRY. When they are lubed they attract dust and dirt and it sticks to them and wears out the wear ring and seal at an accelerated rate. EVERYTHING ELSE SHOULD BE PRE LUBED ive tried almost every differnt kinda wheel seal, and the only ones i use anymore are the Stemco grit guards - they seem to last the longest when done properly.

my opinion - take it for what its worth

[Unilevers]

(04-10-2016 )Waterloo Wrote:  The bearing races, how much does it cost to have the old ones taken out and new ones installed? My kitchen is not set up for cooking parts in the oven... But, I could go out and buy an electric stove and easily install in my garage, as the wiring is already there along with my freezer... ;-)

ive never cooked a on road truck bearing race yet. get a large punch and pound em out and a a large punch and drive em back in.

[kryten]

Back a couple of trucks ago I decided to do bearings and races mostly because I had the hubs off for a new seal and it had about 800000 miles on it. What I used for a punch was I got an old brake S cam from the shop that I cut the cam off. Worked a treat, and also use a 3 - 5 lb hammer, it takes a lot of force to remove the races. Just get good and mad at something or someone and you should be in the right frame of mind for doing bearing races.

[jan0272]

(03-25-2016 )AndrewH Wrote:  From my years of skateboarding in my early youth, i was always using words like bearings, kingpins, and bushings because they were all important parts of the skateboard. never knew i would be using the same terms in diesel trucking as a business owner! lol life is good

I know its a big difference form skateboarding to trucking but in skateboard world ball bearings were very important and would be the main determining factor of how fast you could go on a good set of wheels. There were bearings rated at ABEC3, ABEC5, ABEC7 all the way up to SWISS, and SWISS ceramics... With a set of ABEC3's in the wheel you could push and push and push and struggle to get anywhere lol, good for beginners but not the seasoned rider. now a rider whos been around the block a few times and could afford to throw a set of $65-$100 SWISS CERAMIC bearings had IT MADE. Im talking night and day compared to the lower grade bearings. This rider could "drop in" on a ramp at a skatepark and just use the momentum of his/her body to pump around the park and not even have to push much...

this makes me wonder how much more fuel efficient our rigs could be with the right bearings... class 8 bearings take an enormous amount of daily strain and im sure the engineering behind making a super efficient ball bearing and one that can live 900K + miles would be a extreme task.. maybe they are already this efficient but I wonder if more importantance should be put on the efficiency of the bearing?... Now we wouldn't need rigs rolling so freely that new drivers would be smoking breaks left and right but a happy medium leaning towards a more free resistance...

PS THANKS RAWZE U BE THE MAN! NOW I FINALLY KNOW WHAT THE INSIDE OF MY HUBS LOOK LIKE :)

look into micro blu bearings http://www.microblueracing.com/new-low-f...ducts.html

rawze has posted his feelings about them on here. unless my bearings have been changed without my request and just lumped into some other repair mine have over 1.2 mil on them

[arch stanton]

for installing races i ground down the back of an old race so it slips in, when you install the new race turn the old ground race upside down and use hammer and punch to drive the new one home.

to grind down a race i just hold the race against a bench grinder and rotate it against the wheel until it slips in the hub

[same101us]

It works good to weld around on race with a welder to loosen them up some and pounding them out.