My Pete rebuild

[Nilao]

But to mention cummins redesigned the cooling jets to have the alignment tab use the liner for positioning rather than a tab that fit between 2 protrusions on the block.

[pearce trucking]

Thanks for the links. I'm getting tools now. I've got a cam gear puller on the way. Also inside and outside micrometers. I'll look closer at the links. Also, I'm purchasing the counterbore cutting tool with the foot. Will that foot work to measure depth without the extensions?
I spoke with Monaco and Apex and the 20167 liner press is 3-4 weeks out, but the timing wedges, counterbore cutter, rear crank seal puller are there. Which liner remover tool did you use? Also, is the sled gauge from apex a good one?

[Nostalgic]

Not sure if you're asking me or Rawze...

I bought my cam puller and timing wedges from Dave's Tools:

https://davestools.myshopify.com/product...er-3163069

I ended up borrowing a plate from the local shop that they used before they bought the press. Just a chunk of flat steel, use wrist pins as spacers, and go back and forth on 2 head bolts to snug it down.

I stopped by there on the way home from the machine shop for them to do a quick check for me, and they used the depth tool that comes with the Apex kit. It looks good enough to save a few bucks over buying a depth gauge.

I only pulled liners from 1 block so far, but I used a plate from a Mercedes coil spring compressor, the threaded rod from that kit, and a rear brake rotor with parking drum lol. There's only 1 o-ring on these liners, and they come out pretty easy. I think I just reached in a used my fingers to pull the last 2.

I'll pay for the shop to come out and install my crank seals on this one rather than drop another $600 on 2 tools I'll hopefully only use once in the next few years.

[pearce trucking]

(07-17-2018 )Nostalgic Wrote:  Not sure if you're asking me or Rawze...

I bought my cam puller and timing wedges from Dave's Tools:

https://davestools.myshopify.com/product...er-3163069

I ended up borrowing a plate from the local shop that they used before they bought the press. Just a chunk of flat steel, use wrist pins as spacers, and go back and forth on 2 head bolts to snug it down.

I stopped by there on the way home from the machine shop for them to do a quick check for me, and they used the depth tool that comes with the Apex kit. It looks good enough to save a few bucks over buying a depth gauge.

I only pulled liners from 1 block so far, but I used a plate from a Mercedes coil spring compressor, the threaded rod from that kit, and a rear brake rotor with parking drum lol. There's only 1 o-ring on these liners, and they come out pretty easy. I think I just reached in a used my fingers to pull the last 2.

I'll pay for the shop to come out and install my crank seals on this one rather than drop another $600 on 2 tools I'll hopefully only use once in the next few years.

Both of you. Yeah I already have the front seal tool, and I'm planning on getting the rear. Sounds like I might get by pulling them by hand. (very carefully)

[Rawze]

(07-16-2018 )pearce trucking Wrote:  ...
Which liner remover tool did you use?
...

I have the tool from cummins to pull liners. I don't use it though, it is much easier to just knock the liner up by the bottom with a cut broom handle and a smack from a 5-lb hammer, then grab it and take it out.

[Nostalgic]

Liners all took a final hot bath, got their o-rings and are home.

Cummins says vegetable oil, Rawze used vasoline if I remember, and the IPD sheet said silicon grease.

I used what I always use on orings - Super Lube. Light coat in the bore, and a good coat on the rings. Sat them down, you could feel them reach and sit on the taper and then they dropped right in with a little hand pressure. Wiped the inside of the liners with a coat of oil and everything is wrapped back up while I get ready to start sorting through rods.

One of the drawbacks of buying a basket case is I have no clue what went through what. My ebay block's rods already went through a recent rebuild (bearings all look great), but some of the caps have some dings and marks on them, which makes me hesitant to just use them all. I have no clue who knocked them apart... I'm thinking I'll use my 5 good ones and pick the best looking one? out of the ebay group.

[Nostalgic]

On another note, I'm not sure what to do with the crank & block from my truck.



I slapped a couple used main bearings in it, and the crank will turn....

But adding rods, I'm thinking not so much.



Is it worth anything as a core? I really don't have a lot of dry, climate controlled storage to store the thing, but hate to scrap something that could have some value.

[pearce trucking]

So these are what I went with. The name brand outside mics and calipers were a bit pricey. I got it from the mcmaster carr site.

1
Starrett Depth Micrometer
Model 445Bz-6RL with 0 to 6" Measuring Range
2051A42

2
Starrett Inside Hole Micrometer
Model 124AZ with 2" to 8" Measuring Range
2048A1

3
Economy Outside Micrometer
Set, 6 Pieces
2114A48

4
Economy Vernier Caliper
with Fine-Adjustment Screw, 0 to 12" Range
2272A24

[Nostalgic]

Well, looked over my flywheel housing and spent the better part of yesterday cleaning and painting it. No whiz wheels, as tempting as it was, to get the corrosion off the bellhousing end. Put it on, and checked the bore, everything was right within specs, until I checked the run out.

12 ~ 0"
3 +.010"
6 +.017
9 +.010

I moved it around, I pulled it off, pulled the dowels and ran a file over the area...

I have no clue how the housing gradually grows towards the bottom, but it does. Could it have a twisted up from abuse?

Cummins price is crazy, but local shop didn't have anything good to say about the aftermarket. Anyone used the AKMI?

Lesson learned - don't paint anything until it's on lol.