| If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? |
| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #10 | |||
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RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? (07-31-2018 )Explosia Wrote: ... Don't be so quick to toot their horn. you got (maybe) lucky is all... (except for that horrible gear ratio and failure prone auto-shitter). I have seen plenty of guys buy form there here in the area I live. They are no better than anyone else, and every one of the larger franchise truck stealershits "claims to replace DPF etc." bnut all they do is send them off to be baked and slap them back on. In fact, most of the time, the one they slap back on is not even the one they took off. The only reason for this is because they want it to run about 300 miles or so before the warning lights come back on. They could give a a sh$it about it otherwise. The Warranty they offer 90% of all cases I have ever seen refuses to pay for anything and is not worth the paper it is written on. More than half the trucks I see people got taken on and ended up with a lemon that needed much work has come form them just like any other bad, no give-a-damn used truck dealer. - Might have well have just purchased it form auction, same exact risk, because that is exactly what they did, then doubled the price on it. -- I have no faith in that place after seeing how many used trucks sold by them (and most of the other bigger used truck outfits like em) that weren't worth a damn. Seen trucks come from them with bad turbo's, failed EGR systems, destroyed cams, blown head gaskets, and a whole lot more problems. -- THEY DO NOTHING to the engine/tyruck to ensure it is even slightly ok outside of making sure it looks nice enough to sell and does not throw engine alarms for the first few hundred miles. (one example: reference: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...7#pid28987 ) They are no different than any other slimy used truck stealershit. It is up to the person purchasing 110% to see if there is anything wrong with the equipment they have chosen and it is like pulling teeth out of a lion to try to get them to stand behind anything once you sign that paperwork. i have seen so many guys left out in the cold on that it is not even funny. - Chanege those rears out with 3:55's or 3:79's and learn to drive it 60~ish and you will make a decent profit with it without lugging the liners out of the engine block. Your going to need it to keep up with the extra expenses of that auto trans and the 0.6 mpg less fuel economy it sucks out of the tanks vs a decent driver with a manual. just my own thoughts on it, no one has to agree. User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!. | |||
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| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #11 | |||
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RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? (07-31-2018 )DDB Wrote: Thanks for responding. A couple of questions though: Looking on truckpaper it seems you can find one of these for $15-25k w/650-850k+ miles that are still making money. So I could put it on the road for awhile before the inevitable rebuild. This is definitely an idea to consider. Even with the cost of rebuilding I'm well below what I currently have budgeted for a truck. Downside I guess is that everything else on the truck would have more wear and tear, also. So I'll be replacing a lot of other things sooner than I would on a 2014-2015 with 400k miles. Still, long term I believe this approach would be more economical, all things considered. Especially if it maximizes fuel mileage. | |||
| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #12 | |||
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| RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? Plan in somewhere around $30k for a good rebuild/inframe. Its 1 of those deals where while you have it apart you might as well replace such and such and this and that. That is where the price goes up and up. But usually money well spent if done correctly. Because the cost of being down and re removing everything later begins to add up in the thousands quickly. | |||
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| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #13 | |||
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RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? (07-31-2018 )DDB Wrote:(07-31-2018 )DDB Wrote: Thanks for responding. A couple of questions though: 1) -- No fuel pump issues like the 2250/2350's on the CM871's. - On my own truck, although it is likely overdue for some parts replacements, my entire fuel system (IFSM- Integrated fuel system module) is bone stock original with 1.3 million miles on it. This includes the electric fuel pump, solenoids, valves, gear pump,.. every bit of it. Only thing preventative I do on mine is that I use a DAVCO with a 10-mocron filter and big bottle of diesel-kleen about once a month in the tanks religiously (as per this reference: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...622#pid622 ). 2)- you are correct. DPF only engines. They were the worst for DPF problems/ soot buildup in oil leading to chewed cams, but a very well done de-mandate later (if you live in a foreign country that allows it), and they just run without any issues when well cared for. == As far as reman goes ... Look at blo-by and also run the overhead adjustment, checking for good detent clearance ( second half of this post: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...66#pid9466 ) while your at it. It is the heads that wear the most. Also look for oil leaks around behind the front gear cover where it meets the head on the intake side. Any oil leak there and it is a sign of the cam bearings in the head worn to the bone. An oil leak in the back just below the head is usually a sign of someone driving the snot piss out of the engine in its past, causing the flywheel housing to get warped, leading to the oil leak. As far as the reman itself, look for signs that the head is worn out., excess blo-by, etc. Look for coolant pressure buildup under full operating torque and when engine brake is on high. Those are signs that a reman is needed ASAP. If all is good, it is like a worn down tire. You don't change it just because it is showing its age. You get a bit more life out of it and look for the signs of it being ready. - Throw a gallon of 85-140 gear lube in it at every oil change and don't drive it hard. Get that last 100+k miles out of it before in-framing it if you can and replace all the other junk like shocks, u-joints, etc.etc.etc. making it into something glorious again. My own truck has more than a million miles on it and everyone who looks at it and even drives it will swear it has less than 200k. Even the tranny and shifter is tight like a new one after that many miles. I keep after it very very well and it has always been good to me in return. I would however at a minimum, replace the rod/main bearings as a safety on an older ISX for prevention of a wrist pin failure (recommended at 800k miles). That is what gets many of them when they are neglected, and when it happens the block is trashed. just my own random thoughts on it at the moment anyways. User's Signature: ->: What I post is just my own thoughts and Opinions! --- I AM Full Of S__T!. | |||
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| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #14 | |||
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| RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? Rawze did you really mean 5:55, or 3:55 to 79. Looked at a truck this morning like I am interested in but has 3:36, and a Pac. Moved on to other pages. User's Signature: "KW is my choice of trucks" | |||
| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #15 | |||
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RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? (07-31-2018 )Ragindirt Wrote: Rawze did you really mean 5:55, or 3:55 to 79. Looked at a truck this morning like I am interested in but has 3:36, and a Pac. Moved on to other pages. 3.55 is better on flats. 70 mph @1500 rpm (13 spd.) 3.73 is better if you're running in the hills allot. User's Signature: 2010 386 Pete CM871, 13 spd. 3.55 | |||
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| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #16 | |||
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RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? (07-30-2018 )DDB Wrote: First post here but I’ve been lurking for about a month, trying to get up to speed. I’d like to get some feedback from current owner operators and/or mechanics. That's a loaded question! You're in the right place to get straight,honest advice. 1. Get your finances in order, you're going to need it! The FASTEST way to ruin your credit is to buy a truck. It will ALWAYS cost more than you planned! Want to find out how fast you can go through $25k in cash? Buy a truck. That's AFTER the down payment, financing, taxes, IFTA registration, insurance premium. Been there, done that. Assume EVERY truck needs a complete overhaul, has been abused, needs a new clutch or transmisson UNLESS you get a FULL service and repair history. (Chicken teeth) Every truck has warts, you just have to find them! Unfortunately the trade has shifted to throwaway or recyclable trucks that are shot by the time they reach the OEM warranty. 2. Have a Business plan. This is a business! Know what lanes and commodity you're going to run pay. What the average revenue/mile is, be very sceptical! Seasonal demands can swing rates wildly, plus or minus $2-3k/ month in gross revenue. Supply and demand. You can be the best driver and mechanic in the world but if you suck at business, FAIL. You can be the best businessman in the world and suck at driving and mechanics, FAIL Good at both = Success. https://www.dat.com/freight-rates Know your cost and profit/mile! Learn to create Excel speadsheets 3. Buy what you want to own! Are you going to be comfortable in it, working on it? What is the parts availability? The devil you know is better than the one you don't know! If you want a truck that will run and give you a good ROI and time, think long and hard. My best advice is to start with a platform that is tired but not broken, reman or overhaul engine, transmission and build it up. Reliability comes from constant attention. The CM 871 is a great engine when done right. User's Signature: 2010 386 Pete CM871, 13 spd. 3.55 | |||
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| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #17 | |||
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| RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? GREAT advice in this thread. I just paid mine off, and I'm doing exactly what rawze had suggested for those exact reasons. Mine is showing it's age, but I'm running something highly profitable and local for awhile while I catch up on a number of things, ending with a inframe and trans job. Mine was apart at 685k, and part of what it got was a new set of bearings, for just that reason. I was trying to buy time after the cam went flat. I noticed it is alot less temperamental by not driving it on the edge and cutting back on the boost, and trying to stay off of loads that go through mountains. It no longer uses coolant and oil either. She's noisy, but she still runs fine so I'm running it for now and taking it easy on it while I get a better grip on things. What I learned is it really comes down to being smart and relying less on those who prey on you and more on yourself. I got no help after all the 'promises' that were made to me...company couldn't care less. I ended up diving in and straightening it out myself. Don't rely on company promises or warranties, rely on your own business sense and your own two hands before anything else! That's the only warranty I want or need. User's Signature: 2010 T2000, CM871, 13spd, 977k, tanker yanker Overhauled @ 927k | |||
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| 07-31-2018, (Subject: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? ) Post: #18 | |||
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RE: If you had to buy a truck right now, what would you look for? (07-31-2018 )dhirocz Wrote: GREAT advice in this thread. Congratulations on paying off your tractor! You get it! We wound up overhauling the engine @635k. One year after purchase Tried doing it to the letter but saw the writing on the wall. If it wasn't for this site, we would have been brake dust. User's Signature: 2010 386 Pete CM871, 13 spd. 3.55 | |||
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