CM2250 won’t boost over 20 psi

[Cpowers06]

Truck won’t build over 20 psi of boost, throwing a intake manifold temp sensor data erratic code after replacing IMAP sensor. Truck did have a failed EGR cooler that was prolonged before getting repaired... Also noticed what appears to be crusty soot on the outside of EGR valve right below where the bottom of the shaft for the butterfly would sit like a possible crack in the casting, anybody ever seen this? Thanks in advance!

[Zhidden]

No other codes? Check the connection on the sensor. Might sound stupid but ive seen quite a few with a bit of moisture in them and that will make for a long day. Check ecm connections and bulkhead. A man with a pressure washer can do a lot of damage that may not pop up for months

Verify the egr valve is working properly as well as the VGT. Both can cause high intake temps.

[Cpowers06]

(08-12-2018 )Zhidden Wrote:  No other codes? Check the connection on the sensor. Might sound stupid but ive seen quite a few with a bit of moisture in them and that will make for a long day. Check ecm connections and bulkhead. A man with a pressure washer can do a lot of damage that may not pop up for months

Verify the egr valve is working properly as well as the VGT. Both can cause high intake temps.

No other codes, now that you say that I wonder if the VGT is unable to actuate to full open or close. The truck ran for about 2 months putting a gallon of coolant each day from a failed EGR cooler. Talk about gunked up sticky mess... I’ll keep ya posted

[smorgan87]

It is possible the new imap is bad. Clean and reinstall the old one and see if the code goes away.

[smorgan87]

Id check the connection for any corrosion and clean it up real good too.

[Rawze]

(08-12-2018 )Cpowers06 Wrote:  Truck won’t build over 20 psi of boost, throwing a intake manifold temp sensor data erratic code
...

Intake temp sensor alarms are a sign of something slowing down the turbocharger and causing excess exhaust pressure.

(08-13-2018 )Cpowers06 Wrote:  ...
The truck ran for about 2 months putting a gallon of coolant each day from a failed EGR cooler.
...

That is very very bad. Coolant going through the engine, egr, and exhaust systems for long periods like that can and will causes a lot of damage. When the egr cooler got fixed after running the engine like that for that long, you should have also ...


* Performed a cam inspection + re-adjusted the overhead valves.

* Replaced the rod and main bearings.

* Replaced the engine oil and filters.

* If any excessive wear is found on the rod and main bearings, replace the guts of the high pressure fuel pump too.

* Disassembled 100% of the EGR system including the EGR valve, piping, crossover block for the Delta-P sensor, etc. and cleaned it all out.

* Replaced all of the EGR and intake sensors with the exception of only temp sensors that are unaffected by moisture.

* Cleaned and inspected the EGr valve.


* Pulled the DOC and DPF and had them baked + flow tested. It is also possible the platinum in the DOC / DPF has been washed out by the coolant intrusion too, rendering them useless or problematic towards proper regen cycles.

* Replaced the DPF Delta-P and cleaned out the pipes feeding it.

* Replaced the Doser injector if it is more then 200k miles old, otherwise cleaning it.

* Performed a proper turbo inspection while the turbo was off the engine.

* Inspected the decomp tube and SCR can for coolant intrusion problems.

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If something is derating your truck, use Insite to see what it is. If no faults are coming up then you can also monitor the "Engine State" parameter and it will usually tell you what is holding it back.

My question is -- WHO THE HELL'S DUMB IDEA WAS IT TO DRIVE THE THING LIKE THAT FOR 2 MONTHS??? -- I HAVE SEEN PEOPLE CAUSE HUGE AMOUNTS OF DAMAGE TO THEIR ENGINES AND EXHAUST SYSTEM COMPONENTS FOR DOING EXACTLY THAT!!!.

Not trying to be mean, just stating it as a wake-up call to anyone reading this post to let them know NO IT IS NOT OK TO DRIVE AROUND WITH EGR LEAKING ... NOT ONE BIT!.