King pins tools

[zero4]

Hello everyone.
I was wondering, what kinda of tools do you guys use to replace the king pins?
I know that's not an easy job, because a few months ago I did replace mines and I didn't have any special tools, just a piece of steel bar and a big hammer, and I borrowed a bushing drive set.
Please share your experience and thoughts on this one.

Thank you.

[Rawze]

Here is a procedure for many types of front axles...






However, Every type of axle is different. On my model Hendrickson front axles, you don't replace the king pins, they are hardened and non-replaceable. They are also typically a bit larger diameter than most other types of axle king pins. You only replace the bushings. When you replace the bushings, you have to precision machine the brass with a reamer and guide before installing them into the housings for proper fit to match the wear of the non-replaceable king pin. I found a video on youtube for this but the guy never used a torque wrench on any of the critical steering components, so I would not recommend following it unless you use the manual instead.

https://youtu.be/01_vpoCqy-Q (warning, this guy fails to properly torque things and makes several mistakes, especially towards the end. Just posting the video here to show what Hendrickson king pins.bushings look like).

I left a reply, here is that reply ...

Rawze Wrote:Pretty decent video, thanks for sharing. I however do not agree that you did not use a proper torque wrench on any of the bolts or the steering components. Not trying to be an A-hole or a troll, just a truck owner who expects a high degree of professionalism and care for proper methods. It only takes a few seconds to torque something properly while your there to improve the standards of what a shop does. You can choose to disagree and your "Arm" may be calibrated well enough, but not using a torque wrench suddenly becomes a serious liability for you and your shop. These are critical steering components and it only takes one accident that kills someone + this video, then you + your shop would be buried in lawsuits. The entire video also goes south at the installation of the pitman arm, the tie-rod end, and the hub bearing retaining nut back into place. No cleaning + acetone to the tapered fit steering components so they donl't just spin when using the torque wrench for correct tightness of the castle nuts. To put it into perspective, You simply state "don't over-tighten them" and "tighten the piss out of it" for the hub nut. Using a torque wrench conveys "How Tight Piss is" (235 - 300 ft lbs in the case of the sleeved hub nut and 185 ft-lbs, then turn to key hole for the castle nuts) into the video correctly and when explaining things to others in your shop. In other words, Everyones "arm" adjustment is different, so torque is used as a standard conveyance of how tight something should be and it removes that liability of possible component failure for anyone in the future. - Just pointing out the obvious as tips for your videos so that no one tries to follow this and kills themselves or someone else because they did not get it right. . - Just a heads up, perhaps make the video again and add in these things + torque everything properly with a torque wrench according to the manuals (free online from Hendrickson). Add in checking the new backlash by using a dial indicator on it based on manual specs and you suddenly, in the eyes of most youtube how-to watchers, go from "mediocre mechanic" to "quite professional" for those who watch your videos. - My background on this: I have done this same exact job for my own equipment and for others. I have the proper reamer (yes they are expensive, got mine at McMaster-Carr) and other tools + proper torque wrenches, etc. I have helped many people replace pitman arms, tie-rods, and these style of bushings. I always use a proper torque wrench for avoidance of liability and if for no other reason, to instill confidence into the truck owner of my professionalism and the proper repair of his equipment. - thanks, Rawze from Rawze.com

Also, the proper torque spec for every axle type is different too, keep that in mind. After-all, they are critical steering components.

[dhirocz]

I replaced my kingpins and used no special tools aside from a brake hone and a socket, I think it was a 34mm, that fit perfectly to tap out the old bushings... I used the keiser setup and I love it...

Just make sure you read the directions carefully. You want to make sure you reassemble everything correctly.

Now if I only had an easier way of pulling and installing bearing races and spring eye bushings I'd be all set!

I do agree that you need to make sure that you torque your fasteners to spec and check lash where appropriate. I don't consider these kind of tools to be 'special'. Just make sure if you do it, it's legit and correct.

I also made a point to change all my cotter pins and whatnot while I was down there.

[bwake]

There are really no special tools that are required to do this job on a majority of kingpins. The only suggestion that I would for anyone that is doing this job "at home" is to get the bushing that are a no ream style. This will keep you from having to hone out the spindle to get the bushings to fit. All kingpin bushings that I do are done with the no ream bushings, makes for a pretty simple job. Occasionally there are some pins that are a mother to get out and require a press but that happens less often. If you do have one that you have to hammer out, I suggest placing a nut from a spring u-bolt on top of the kingpin to hammer on. This will protrude out giving you something with a larger diameter to hit, it's also not a hardened piece of metal that will splinter off and turn into a projectile.

[Rawze]

(10-06-2018 )bwake Wrote:  ...
get the bushing that are a no ream style ...

You cannot get them no-ream for that style Hendrickson front-end as far as I know. The Only ones I could get for mine all have to be a machined fit for those models.

Just a heads up on my own experience with them anyways.

[bwake]

(10-06-2018 )Rawze Wrote:  

(10-06-2018 )bwake Wrote:  ...
get the bushing that are a no ream style ...

You cannot get them no-ream for that style Hendrickson front-end as far as I know. The Only ones I could get for mine all have to be a machined fit for those models.

Just a heads up on my own experience with them anyways.

Not sure which style Hendrickson front end you are referring to but you may be correct. I was giving a suggestion to the OP which made no reference to a particular style axle. But, most front axles have the no ream style bushings available for them (like the video you posted) and I wanted any readers to know that there is a difference in the two. As always, anyone doing this type work should be following manufactures specifications and if that is to use a ream style bushing, by all means, that is what should be placed on the truck. Many don't know there is a difference and I was pointing that out to them.
Here is a no ream kit for Hendrickson axle code UC2 and US2.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...sbjcr154YE

[Rawze]

(10-07-2018 )bwake Wrote:  Not sure which style Hendrickson front end you are referring to but you may be correct. I was giving a suggestion to the OP which made no reference to a particular style axle. But, most front axles have the no ream style bushings available for them (like the video you posted) and I wanted any readers to know that there is a difference in the two. As always, anyone doing this type work should be following manufactures specifications and if that is to use a ream style bushing, by all means, that is what should be placed on the truck. Many don't know there is a difference and I was pointing that out to them.
Here is a no ream kit for Hendrickson axle code UC2 and US2.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=...sbjcr154YE

Its all good. I fixed the link for the catalog you posted, nice cross-reference. The UC2 and US2 are older style I think?. Most of the newer style Airtek front ends any more will take Hendrickson kit# 60691-??? or similar. Mine takes th the 60691-630 for my prostar. Here is a catalog that came up in a search that shows what the kit looks like...
https://ecommerce.tw-distribution.com/im...html#p=589

Just putting all this here for reference in case some day someone is looking up king pins on their Hendrickson air-suspension front end.