CM871 Tune

[Rawze]

(09-28-2018 )Chamberpains Wrote:  Are those fresh bright brand new freeze plugs I see in place of where a EGR cooler belongs? Bud, you have yourself some real problems. If they removed the EGR cooler you are not getting proper coolant flow through your engine.

The back cylinder number 6 coolant routing goes through the EGR cooler into the back of the engine block. Without that there there is no coolant circulating in the back of your engine. Rawze has also proven that doing this makes an extremely high pressure coolant pocket back there.

Yes, the blocked port form the water pump builds as much as 70+ psi onto the dead pipe. It inadvertently face-loads the water pump, shortening its lifespan. This has been measured in the past.

[Rawze]

(09-28-2018 )Husky05 Wrote:  

(09-28-2018 )Rawze Wrote:  What brand/make turbo is on it ?

It's a Holset

It being a Holset HX series is not as bad as those crappy big-boss or borg werners. Still, not the best thing to do if you care about fuel mileage or your engine brake much. Looks like the thing has been on there a while too... Outside of extreme applications, if the average engine load history shows it in the 28-30% range for its lifetime, like most highway trucks here in the states, then it is a shame someone did this.

[Husky05]

Ahhh well I planned to find a old EGR cooler and EGR and put it back on just so it looks like it has it and so the cooling can route from rear to the pump. Thanks for pointing that out to me. Once money is rolling in again I will for sure start working on to make the engine right.

Right now trying to get Insite and Calterm to work, having time issue with the Insite right now and unable to run in pro mode.

[Husky05]

Got insite to work in pro mode, however some features are locked to read only mode like accelerator pedal settings and couple more things but most of all are unlocked now and now can run diagnostic.

Calterm, that thing I can't for my life get it to connect with the ECM. I can connect to ECM no problem with insite.

Any idea?

[Rawze]

(09-30-2018 )Husky05 Wrote:  Got insite to work in pro mode, however some features are locked to read only mode like accelerator pedal settings and couple more things but most of all are unlocked now and now can run diagnostic.

C@ltr!m, that thing I can't for my life get it to connect with the ECM. I can connect to ECM no problem with insite.

Any idea?

Maybe follow instructions where you found the software at. This is not a file-sharing or engine tuning site. Questions like those are probably better off asked on those types of forums.
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[Rawze]

(09-27-2018 )Husky05 Wrote:  Hello all, I have a truck with 09 CM871 that is D'leted tuned from 485 to 550. fresh complete overhaul on engine with non VGT turbo.

I am noticing a slight vibration from 1300 rpm and up. below that It's smooth. So I suspect it is a bad tune. Tune was done by a shop a hour away from me ...

Husky05 sent me the program supposedly out of his truck last night. There is a clear explanation on why he is having excess vibration issues. Needless to say it is bad -- VERY VERY BAD programming. It is consistent with the programming found on those auto-tuning sites and those guys who tend to hate my forum for pointing out this stuff. There is no accountability for those a-holes that do this kind of brain butcher work!.

Without going into details, here is just the torque/power curve that is programmed into it...



He has now officially become a member of the bad delete victim club. What a shame.

- Adding to this, all fueling and other limiting has been removed, so there is nothing limiting the engine from clamping or clipping off this awful kindergarten hack-job of a torque/power map. the engine is actually set to try to make this happen!. Sad part is that injection timing, fuel-air mix and everything else is still expecting EGR gas into the intake. The result is an engine that tries to make 900+ HP, but only beating itself up internally, a large portion of the torque/power it is set to make is being lost as internal friction and heat that ends up in the radiator!. - The WORST WAY to make power and torque in one of these engines.

Even the accelerator pedal was also set to demand this from the engine.

This must be their Engine tuning theory/strategy: "Make it fight itself as much as it can and hope we can get some residual left overs to the flywheel?"


The wrong program is in his enigne as well. The program is incorrect for the pistons, injectors, injector cam, valve cam, CAC or anything else pertaining to his model truck/engine.

It is also set to only report that the engine is 600-hp and 2050 torque to anyone connecting to it with software. It is clearly set for 800+ HP and 3000+ ft-lbs of torque.

- The list is very long of bad programming mistakes in this complete garbage of a program. It goes to show how ignorant some of these guys calling themselves "custom tuners" or "engine delete specialists" in fact are.

No wonder it is shuddering the crank, it trying to beat the main bearings to death!.

Sad thing is that this kind of damage sets in quickly. According to his post(s) it just got inframed, and if he is driving it around with programming this bad in it, some permanent internal damage has already likely started to set in.

[Husky05]

Hello everyone, sorry it took so long to get back.

I only drove 75 miles with that cal. from the seller to home. Then it sat until I got the correct cal. for the correct engine/HP/TQ Rating in with delete and no vgt turbo done to it.

Ran to WA from MN and on the way back just a hour east of Billings i lost #4 injector. Got it towed to a shop in Billings. This was on Sunday. Monday morning I got up and that shop I got towed to was booked 2 days out. So I made some calls found a shop that can put in new injector in same day. But it was 4 miles away. I took the risk and drove without the trailer to B&R Repair. They put in OEM Injector in, let me look at the old one that they said it was dripping diesel out of the ball on the bottom, so looking at it, it is a aftermarket one. I knew it because when I bought the truck, it came with paperwork including the inframe paperwork and warranty paperwork on the inframe, it stated that all 6 injectors were replaced, and they were 450 dollars each. I know my injectors in my old truck when I did all 6 injectors myself, i used OEM remans which were 650 each.

I have only put 2700 miles on this truck when the #4 injector went out. The seller said that it has approx 40k miles on the overhaul. I am not sure how much of what he told me about the truck is true anymore.

Hopefully those other 5 will last little longer. I cannot remember the name that was on the injector.

I had a shake going up a hill in Bismarck on the way back to MN, it lost power also. Pulled over for 15 mins looking around, found nothing wrong, so I restarted and gave it a rev and the shake was gone. Rolled out to the truck stop, it worked fine. Got new fuel filter in just in case and it has not happened again.

Truck runs good, other than a rattle that is driving me crazy that only happens at 1300 rpm and up, goes quiet when I let off. I have searched all over and cannot find anything loose. I am home now and going to have the local shop look at it and help me find the rattle. I am not sure if it's something loose or if it is the clutch. Its right around my foot to the transmission dome.

Right now I am wishing I could have brought my laptop with me to see if the seller would have let me pull the cal to see what has been done before buying it. But I own it now and am stuck with it for a while and can only hope for the best.

I am getting about 7.2 mpg doing 64 @ 1350 rpm so I am happy with that as my old truck with CM870 was getting 6.3 on the same MN-NW route at 64 @ 1430 rpm

[Chamberpains]

Is the "rattle" at 1300 rpm+ in gear and out? Through every gear? Or only in the top gear 1300+, meaning 60 mph+? Maybe speed related? What the closest sound you can compare the rattle too? Do you feel any shaking?
From your description of the area it sound like your clutch brake or throw out bearing on the clutch may need some attention. Possibly even the forks or linkages. But if I where you, I'd thoroughly check the trans and rear ends (fluid for contamination and signs or failure) and the u-joint while your at it.

[Husky05]

It only happens in any gear over 1300.

I am going to get trans, and rear fluid drained to check for contamination. U joint and carrier looks good to me, but I'm going to have the shop check it out also.

It seems like some piece is loose and getting knocked around inside a moving part like clutch, metal to metal rattle.