N14 issues

[race7820000]

My N14 was overhauled 3/16, I bought the truck in 2/18 and maybe have put 40k miles on it this year, according to the receipt the Truck has 230k roughly on overhaul.

I took to cummins cause it was missing. Or I thought it was and doesn't have power.

They "fixed" the miss a little lol but truck is the same. Still has a miss. Just not as severe. The guy that did the injector and dynoed it after said he can feel the miss under a load they just can't pinpoint it. And suggested a computer, etc etc, I really don't want to throw parts at it. It still Doesn't have the power. It will maintain speed pulling a load up a hill. But if your on the flat and your mash it, it just sits there and takes forever to gain speed.

It's a 525hp 13sp 3.58 gear

They Said blow by was 12 inch under load. Which I would think is high.

When the Truck runs there is no smoke whatsoever out of stacks and burns clean.

Is there a way to test the turbo to see if it's causing the blow by part?

I realize that just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was done right or something else happened.

[hhow55]

(11-11-2018 )race7820000 Wrote:  My N14 was overhauled 3/16, I bought the truck in 2/18 and maybe have put 40k miles on it this year, according to the receipt the Truck has 230k roughly on overhaul.

I took to cummins cause it was missing. Or I thought it was and doesn't have power.

They "fixed" the miss a little lol but truck is the same. Still has a miss. Just not as severe. The guy that did the injector and dynoed it after said he can feel the miss under a load they just can't pinpoint it. And suggested a computer, etc etc, I really don't want to throw parts at it. It still Doesn't have the power. It will maintain speed pulling a load up a hill. But if your on the flat and your mash it, it just sits there and takes forever to gain speed.

It's a 525hp 13sp 3.58 gear

They Said blow by was 12 inch under load. Which I would think is high.

When the Truck runs there is no smoke whatsoever out of stacks and burns clean.

Is there a way to test the turbo to see if it's causing the blow by part?

I realize that just because it was rebuilt doesn't mean it was done right or something else happened.

I recall having problem's like your's with my old n14.
First I would check turbo, and see if any fins are missing, and also check for excessive side play.

Get some soapy water, and search for leak's on all you boot's to and from the cac. Your low power could be a weak fuel pump. As regard's to the miss, when mine had one it was alway's a bad injector. Try disconnecting the injector connector's one at a time that are on the left side of your motor, and see if that work's.
Are you signed up at quickserve.cummins.com ?

[race7820000]

Yes I'm registered with quickserve.

I changed the fuel pump in July. Bought from cummins and it came with a selnoid. Also changed all the fuel lines and the check valve. It was hard starting is why I changed all that.

I've tried unplugging one at a time and the number 6 injector will start missing when I unplug it but it doesnt sound as severe as the rest when I unplug it. You can just tell I did.

Cummins tested cac and the intake system when it was there and found that bad intake gasket and fixed it.

You can here the turbo spool it just feels like it has no boost. The horse it has you should be able to feel it pulling a 30k lb load. It feels like I have a 330hp ism lol

[Rawze]

(11-11-2018 )race7820000 Wrote:  Yes I'm registered with quickserve.

I changed the fuel pump in July. Bought from cummins and it came with a selnoid. Also changed all the fuel lines and the check valve. It was hard starting is why I changed all that.

I've tried unplugging one at a time and the number 6 injector will start missing when I unplug it but it doesnt sound as severe as the rest when I unplug it. You can just tell I did.

Cummins tested cac and the intake system when it was there and found that bad intake gasket and fixed it.

You can here the turbo spool it just feels like it has no boost. The horse it has you should be able to feel it pulling a 30k lb load. It feels like I have a 330hp ism lol

This is all speculation, i have never worked on one, just repeating what has been said to me in the past ...

N14 injectors that are worth a damn are hard to get. Cummins is no longer making new stock for them from what I hear, so all you can get these days is remans that have been re-worked several times and are are slap worn to the bone. Parts for N14's are a crap shoot at best these days, the engine are no longer supported. There are also 2 sizes of injectors, make sure you have tyhe correct oens for your engine + make sure they did not mis-match them.

Mr. Hag has repaired a bunch of them in Atlanta. Maybe a trip his way at some point wuld not be a bad idea.

[Chamberpains]

Rawze i believe is on the right path. The N14 I had years ago would just go flat intermittently pulling a hill. Almost like it was derating but N14's don't derate. If this is what your feeling, more than likely you have a bad injector. Which one and how do you find it?? Well thats tricky. Usually a dyno will expose it, sometimes the injector cut out will coax it out, sometimes watching the injector pulse width with a pro-link will get you to catch it. The most effective way I found at the time was have the Pro-link in the truck and monitor the injectors pulse width while driving. You gotta catch it in the act. Because they'll operate just fine till they don't. I dont know if Insite works on the N14. Im sure someone on here knows. But Pro-Link and the N14 cartridge was the top of the line diagnostics hardware/software of the N14 days.

[the missing link]

Two things come to mind .
1st . If the feul draining back , their is a check valve you can take apart and clean . If I remember right , you take the fuel line off the block and it is inbettween the block and fuel line . You can aslo just take it apart and clean it .
The second thing is the crank sensor .
I would replace it and see if it is the problem . Worst case I would always pack a spare in the truck . There is actually two sensor in the one you see . What will happen is one of them will stop working , but it will still run . It will feel like you have no power . They are a bit of a bugger to change . You can actually take a socket and cut a slice out of the side of it and make it alot easier to change . If I remember right it is on the driver's side just above the air compressor , behind the front gears.

[the missing link]

Oh and and change the imap (intake ) sensors , there can be two on it . For the money I would them and the crank sensor . Then see where it stands .

[race7820000]

I'll try the sensors. The crank one looks newer or at least the wiring does.

That check valve by the computer is clean
I've checked that recently. Every time I service truck I clean it. Just cause it's super easy to do.

I'll change those sensors and let u guys know if it improves

Thanks

[race7820000]

Changed sensors. Didn't really notice a change other than it runs better cold.

Cummins said the crank sensor was the old style. It was flat and copper colored, it had a crack on the flat part of it. The new one was blue.