My Pete rebuild

[Rawze]

(01-31-2019 )Nostalgic Wrote:  My first time dealing with ground loop noise, and I still blame the cheap amps, but putting ground loop isolators on the 4 F&R channels took most of it out. I bought everything from Crutchfield's scratch-n-dent store, and despite the non existent budget, pieced together a pretty good sounding system.

ground loop noise can be stopped in its tracks if you use a single heavy gauge power wire/ground pair feed that starts at only one end of the system and powers all components in a daisy chain on a single power feed-line instead of tapping a source of power/ground from different places in the vehicle.

For example, same thing happens at your house,.. lots of people complain about line noise in their home theater and television systems when they turn the volume up high ,... you look at how all the amps, cable tv boxes, computer that is connected, and devices are plugged in and they are all plugged into the nearest outlet instead of using a single outlet, then daisy-chaining that single connection with drop cords to all devices in the system. It makes a huge difference if you only use a single source daisy chained like that instead of the nearest power source. Daisy-chaining the power from a single source keeps the varying current draw of all the devices in phase with each other as they draw more or less power off that single power feed line.

[Waterloo]

You need two of these distribution blocks, one for ground and one for power if you are installing two amps or more. I have three amps in my truck.
https://amzn.to/2LiZFJJ

My cable, 1/0 and 4 ga
https://amzn.to/2WmRU6r

https://amzn.to/2DOIB8m

1/0 ga to the distribution blocks, ground and power, the power is fused in the battery box. This particular brand of cable is incredibly flexible, the reason I went with it. They have some nice amp kits available too if the amp(s) you are installing are not going to require some big cables. I really like these guys for their cable and lugs.

https://amzn.to/2WkkDZH

Here is the ground lug I used in the floor of the cab. http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/...HEEALw_wcB

The above ground lug is grounded to the frame on the underside of the sleeper via 1/0 ga cable, then 1/0 cable to ground distribution block, 4 ga out to amps, both power and ground.

Main thing is to ground and isolate the cables using the distribution blocks. Ground direct to frame if possible... Only use two isolated connections like Rawze stated. One direct power to or from battery, and one direct ground to a good surface, like the frame rail. Then distribute power and ground from there.

My home stereo is set up the same way, two outlets power everything, on their own 15 amp circuit, the AVR, 2 separate Amplifiers, one Pre-Amp and 3 subs along with the TV, BD, Cable, Turn Table, etc. The 2 amps are on one plug, then I use a power isolation strip for the rest of the stuff on the second, daisy chained. No feedback, no hum.

If that is a power inverter, I would wire that on a direct line to the battery, separate from the stereo gear. Use the heavy cable just as you would on the car stereo, run direct. Two fused power cables in, one to amp(s) one to inverter. Two grounds, use two of the ground lug posts in the floor board, I think it is easier that way than trying to run direct from battery or frame rail on the ground. That is just me. I like to keep the inverter separate from everything and ground the hell out of it. My TrippLite has two grounds.

[Nostalgic]

I used the same style power distribution blocks - just Rockford brand. 1/0, same as you, and the 6 channel amp is running on 4 gauge, the 2 channel 8 gauge, with 1/0 continuing on to the inverter. The only difference is, I ran ground straight to the battery. I wasn't quite sure how to run a better ground from the sleeper and cab to the frame (factory appears to be around a 4-8 gauge?), so it could be some of the problem? Either way, using the ground loop filters worked (pretty much the same as grounding the negative of the RCA's to the HU case.

I did try running a different ground for the HU, but it didn't change anything, and to be honest, once the filters worked, laziness just kicked in and I didn't do anything else to fix the underlying issue since the bandaid worked lol. I was getting ready to replace alternator cables, etc. and am at the point where I need to STOP finding new ways to prolong buttoning things up (and spending more $$$). It seemed like I never stopped finding something else to add or do "while things were apart".

I do need to pull the pillar and front panel again to run run power for my dash cam, and debating if I'm going to go ahead and run power for a linear amp. I hear the CB isn't the same as it was 15-20 years ago, so not sure if I'm going to do much else that my barefoot Galaxy and a 3' firestik.

I went with an Apple Carplay receiver, and made some use of the qualcom wiring to drop a camera on the rear of my sleeper to view the trailer with the flip of a switch and wired my other spare for a future rear axle dump.



The company uses Keeptruckin, so I got the cheapest Tab I could find for it's dedicated use. I'm glad it's dedicated, because I hate it. I'm not sure if it's the android OS or just this model, but would really prefer an iPad. Actually, I'd prefer paper...

[mj9770]

Looks awesome. Lots of hard work! Great job

[Nostalgic]

Between hospital visitations and every other daily catastrophe that seems to be prevalent on the farm, I managed to do some trailer shopping, and am pretty sure I'm going with an older 48 flat to see what I end up hauling before buying a payment book for something that I regret.

Paranoia got the best of me - when I drained the diffs, the front had just a little more material on the plug than I'm comfortable with, and there was just a little too much rainbow/silver sheen running into the drain pan. So... I got to pull my first diff...



I really expected to find some chunks, but it really didn't look too bad inside.



I can't see much, but it looks like all of my silver is coming from the spider gears on the divider. I'll run it to the place that did my driveshafts and transmission to go over.

[ZeroNthedark]

(01-31-2019 )Nostalgic Wrote:  debating if I'm going to go ahead and run power for a linear amp.

Honestly, it's not worth your trouble to bother with a linear, unless you have to sound like those "people" on Channel 6. Almost any decently setup radio will talk as far as you need. You might be amazed at what can be accomplished with a Cobra 29 and Wilson 2000. Not much good if I can hear you 20 miles away, but you can't hear me. If you really have to have big wattage, I'd buy a factory radio with one already in it, i.e.; Galaxy 98VHP and 99HP, Connex 3300-300, and most of the Rangers. Stay far away from Strykers- yeah they look nice, and even work well initially, but when they don't you get a real expensive paperweight.

Also remember to keep power/ground cables way away from any RCA cables and keep them separated from your coax. I just love it when I key up and it comes through my subwoofer.

Just an opinion from a guy who's had more than a few radios of all brands bouncing in the cab.
And hold on to that Galaxy- my 98VHP has been going strong for 7 years and counting...

I also see you went with the Knoedler seat. I hope you enjoy it, soon as I drop a couple pounds mine is going back in!

[Nostalgic]

I read about channel 6, and it must be something new? Other than the marine in the boat, I haven't used a radio for a long time. I pulled my box'o'truck stuff out of the attic and took everything up to Bob's CB shop to go over since when I googled "my cb shop", Livewire, I found he passed away in 2010. My Cobra 29 was still turned down to use with a little 200 watt box, so I decided to just run my Galaxy. Just needed new knobs and a meter light replaced, and it's good to go. My Road King mic was stolen 15 years ago, so I picked up a new one... So sad that a cheap ripoff piece of chinese crap is what represents the name now. I'll have to try to snag a good one off eBay.

[ZeroNthedark]

I won't go on too much of a tangent here, but I'm glad you got all fixed up. You'll have a better setup than 70% of what passes for truck drivers today. Most don't even seem to own a radio, let alone know how to turn it on! Ch. 6 is just a bunch of guys that sit a home with their over powered base stations and try to yell across the country at each other. Wouldn't be so bad except when the weather is right they bleed at least 10 channels in each direction.

You'll be fine that RK 56- for some reason Bob always try to tell guys that they aren't any good anymore. Still made the the same way, with the same parts. Only thing that changed is the parent company, who just happen to be based in PA. Take apart an Astatic and Road King- exactly the same.

[Nostalgic]

I bought an Astatic while in mourning over the loss of my RK, but never did get used to how it sounded. Not bad - it's a good mic, but just not the same, and it's not like I have a good radio voice to start with lol. The new RK is nothing like my old one - everything is thinner, cheaper feeling, and lighter. I haven't had the truck outside to tune the antenna and see how it sounds yet, so we'll see.

While waiting at the CB shop, I was actually really surprised to hear as much traffic as I did - on a Saturday nonetheless. It's going to be surreal hitting the road again after being away for so long.

Going to pick up my rebuilt diff. tomorrow and hopefully get my enhanced inspection, title, plates, and trailer before end of month and get ready to start wheels rolling.