Milky in oil fill tube

[shawnkw]

Today
Opened coolant cap no oil in coolant.

Pulled oil dipstick no bubbles or water good viscosity and color.

Opened oil fill tube more milky had formed over night I cleaned yesterday. Green condensate on underside of cap and some in neck.

Performed coolant leak test it held 15 psi for 5 min no leak down. Pumped to 20 psi held for 5 min no leaks.


I could pump to 20 and see if it holds till morning but I can’t pull the pan in my yard.


Thoughts ?????

[Lonestar10]

Has there been alot of high humid hot days then real cool at night? Has it lost any coolant?

[Rawze]

(04-10-2019 )shawnkw Wrote:  Today
Opened coolant cap no oil in coolant.

This simply means it is not likely your oil cooler.

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(04-10-2019 )shawnkw Wrote:  Pulled oil dipstick no bubbles or water good viscosity and color.

Head gasket or liner issues you will never see it on dipstick,.. mostly useless to look at dipstick for evidence of anyting unless u already has some kind of caterstophic enigne failure.
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(04-10-2019 )shawnkw Wrote:  Performed coolant leak test it held 15 psi for 5 min no leak down. Pumped to 20 psi held for 5 min no leaks.

I could pump to 20 and see if it holds till morning but I can’t pull the pan in my yard.

Coolant system is 15+ gallons big,.. you could let that thing sit pressurized for a week and it oozing coolant into the crank case and may never really see it on a pressure gauge. Unfortunately, the only correct test is to pull the oil pan off it with it pressurized if you want a definitive answer.


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Now that your assumptions have been put into proper perspective ...

Hopefully, like you said, it is possibly severe condensation from sitting,.. but if you want to know the actual answer,.. you have to do the check(s) properly and not guess based on short-sighted assumptions.

The only correct answer if you want to test the engine for internal leaks is to do what I said above ( post#5 ) , otherwise, your just pissing in the dark and guessing at it.

BTW: if the oil fill cap is that bad, you need to pull the engine cover (valve cover) off it and look at its underside as well, just to ensure your problems are not severe.

- The whole top-end could be getting rusty, have seen it before, and if enough moisture gets into it (or even small amounts of coolant seepage), it can wipe out rod and main bearings + other components in a hurry.

[shawnkw]

Thank you Rawze. I understand the importance of the leak down test and the time it takes and the removal of the oil pan. I couldn’t do that today because I had to get back to the fire station. I was fortunate enough for my officer to let me sneak over to my yard and do a quick test. I will go back tomorrow and do it correctly. Or take to a shop and do a cylinder leak down test and most likely get ready to fork out 18,000.

Thanks Shawn.

[Magard]

18 grand might need to add about 10 to that unless you really short change it.

[shawnkw]

(04-10-2019 )Magard Wrote:  18 grand might need to add about 10 to that unless you really short change it.

Wife works for Cat so the perks are pretty nice

[Rawze]

(04-11-2019 )shawnkw Wrote:  

(04-10-2019 )Magard Wrote:  18 grand might need to add about 10 to that unless you really short change it.

Wife works for Cat so the perks are pretty nice

(assuming is a cummins engine for a moment )...
unless they do all the extra steps recommended by this forum , you are destined for a repeat failure with it.
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...4#pid35624

[shawnkw]

Rawze is at the cat shop for cylinder leak down test won’t know more till next week and will take the appropriate steps that’s recommended on this forum.

Thanks for all the help

Shawn

[Magard]

Is this truck powered by a cat or Cummins