Crankcase pressure

[race7820000]

Figure I would give an update.

Got a platitum kit from cat and it came with a new head, evidently they were out of remans. They said sometimes that happens.

Head is getting checked out now.

Took my crank to a different machine shop and they cleaned up thrust area. They do all of the local cat shops work, Said it wasn't as bad as it looked. And then they polished it. So it's still std.

Liner protrusion was almost the same on every cyl., they read right at .0049 inches which is in spec. Cat said sometimes they are all similar. I just thought it was weird. I followed the sis instructions, torqued liner down, measured in 4 spots. Each cyl. Used an actual liner protrusion gauge.

The crankshaft endplay was .010 inches which is right in spec too.

The kit didn't come with cam bearings but I bought cat cam bearings and put them in and before that I took out oil galley plugs and cleaned everything out.

Bought separately a rear and front structure kit on top of the rebuild kit. Came with new bolts etc.

I still need to get a cam and a turbo. My cam is junk, a cpl intake lobes have pits in them.

I cleaned all the parts, and repainted every thing that bolts on motor. I was to get the valve covers chrome dipped but I don't know if that's worth $750 lol don't make it run better.

I've been using the sis program to put motor together. It's super handy. I follow it step by step.

Everything on motor in and on it is getting replaced with stock stuff. No high performance crap. The only part I'm not replacing is the ecm as it's 3 years old.

While motor is out I changed the input shaft and bearing in trans and all the linkage. Also bought a new clutch.

Anyways, It's taken awhile as I have other trucks and disasters. My favorite truck which is a international with a ism had the fan hub studs break off of the head, I tried everything to get broken studs out, even had cummins come out. They couldn't get so I torched the bitches out and cleaned up the threads. And locktited new studs in head. Was a giant nightmare, but worked good.

And I had a clutch go out. So haven't had much time to focus on this show motor I'm working on. But it's getting there.

Going to be the most bad ass 435hp c12 around here lol

[docter e]

i have an isx 450st cummins in a peterbilt crankcase light comes on and off any thoughts

[race7820000]

Its taken a while to get running but it runs! I cut my thumb half off and was in hospital and had to have surgery. At least it was my left hand lolol

Anyways.... it runs pretty smooth. I havent broke it in yet. I just got it to fire and ran for 15 min.then shut off.

I was going to call cat in the am and see how they break them in. Anyone have any idea?

I'll post better pics later. But here are a cpl before I got it all buttoned up.

I ended up getting everything from cat, the kit,cam,turbo,balancer,paint, oil,antifreeze etc etc.

After everything is said and done I have 20k in it, that's me doing all the work except from when I took the block and head into the machine shop and I bought a new clutch and a install kit for trans .

[Rawze]

When i build an ISX with someone here at the house, i get all the air out of the fuel system, i make sure there is no air left in the oil system. and that it has good pressure, no leaks, etc.etc. --> Then I slam the accel pedal all the way to the floor, let it rev all the way,.. then back it off only very so slightly so the rpm is only about 5-10 or so rpm less than its governed max,... and leave it there, not moving the fuel pedal at all for about 8 - 10 minutes. Scares the hell out of the truck owner. lol

While holding the rpm at a just a hare under its max, not moving the fuel pedal at all, ... if the engine starts slowing down at all then I know there is excess friction in it and it needs to be shut down because something is wrong internally. -- If it holds steady just under max rpm (just shy of the speed governor) without moving the pedal at all, then there is nothing to fear.

After that, I drive the piss out of it around the neighborhood for a bit, then straight to somewhere to change the oil again., Back home, then re-run the valve adjustment a second time.

that is how i do it anyways,,. call me crazy lol.

[tree98]

Wow Rawze, that would make me swallow pretty hard.

[race7820000]

I get what your saying. If it changes tone or slows then something is getting tighter lol I didn't think a guy would want to baby it . I set the cruse at 1500 rpm and let it sit there for 10 min. But I didnt let it run longer cause I dodnt know.

I wasent sure if it had to have so much torque on it to help seat the rings? Like it's not using its power in neutral at high rpms right? Or am I looking at it wrong?

Thanks

[race7820000]

I was also thinking of running that sta lube in it?

[Rawze]

(07-21-2019 )race7820000 Wrote:  I was also thinking of running that sta lube in it?

I used gear oil on mine with its first crank-up. -- It did take longer (it smoked for a couple weeks longer than expected at first crank every day) for the rings to fully seat due to the gear-lube, but otherwise, I noticed no other ill-effects. - Mine took about 80,000 miles to fully gain back its previous fuel mileage of 9+ mpg. i am thinking the gear lube may have slowed the break-in process down? because of less overall wear? -- Speculation at best though.

after 300k miles after my inframe though,.. all I can say is daaaamm!,.. it runs smooth.
Still using all the original IFSM components though... likely on borrowed time with the electric lift pump, gear-pump, and fuel system valves, solenoids, actuators, etc. lol - then again, i have always used a 10 micron fuel filter + added big bottle of diesel-kleen once a month to it since truck was new.

[race7820000]

I have put about 150 miles on truck. Runs great. Other than a small minor flutter that starts around 1100 rpm. Like an injector is acting up. I put it on computer and did the 4 cyl cut out test and it said number 3 was not ok. Did one by one and nunber 3 sounded like it was cutting out then the other times like it didnt make a difference.

Number 3 doesnt fail the test everytime. I did it 5 times and it failed twice.

When ur pulling it seems fine. All kinds of power. No blowby. Not yet anyways. Doesnt roll coal. Burns nice and clean.

I didn't put any program in or anything, I figured leaving it stock would last me longer and I dont need to show off. Not for 20k lol

Anyways, the injector has a selnoid , the cat program has a test for it and it passed.

Does anyone know a different way to figure out if it is injector? I already put the trim codes off new injectors in the ecm.
I just want it perfect
Thanks