Clutch replacement 870 without help
08-27-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #10
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
Also make sure you strap the box to the jack really well. You'll be surprised how much the clutch will make it want to nose dive if you leave it in the box.
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 Thanks given by: Rawze
08-31-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #11
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
Before unbolting anything put a digital level on the top of the trans and record the angle. This can help with alignment going back in, especially if the trans is changed or has been off the jack.
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 Thanks given by: Rawze , tree98 , snailexpress
08-31-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #12
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
(08-31-2019 )DVT873 Wrote:  Before unbolting anything put a digital level on the top of the trans and record the angle. This can help with alignment going back in, especially if the trans is changed or has been off the jack.

Awesome idea thanks for that!
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09-01-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #13
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
Dunno about everybody else but I used a old input shaft as an alignment tool once and will never do it again. Reason being the part that runs in the spigot bearing is always worn and it caused the clutch plates to be misaligned and then the new shaft wouldnt slide in.
I always use to bolt it to the flywheel first and use a proper dummy tool but now prefer to sit it on the input shaft and button it up after putting 4 or 5 bellhousing bolts in (if theres any issues you havnt got too much to get the box back off).
When installing the box, if the top is touching but the bottom is still a way off (or vice versa) dont try and pull it in with bolts as the housing is only aluminium. Keep playing with the jack settings till its pretty much flush. And like another user said, just run all the clutch bolts in half way first, then go back around once or twice with a torque wrench. The first one can sometimes be a little tricky but if you hold your tongue the right way you'll get it and the rest should be easier.
If its your first time then definitely make sure you've got a torque wrench for checking all the bolts (ESPECIALLY the drive shaft and clutch bolts). Using a torque wrench is actually easier when doing alot of things imo as you wont second guess yourself as to whether you could maybe do something a little tighter or if you're doing a bit too tight.
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 Thanks given by: Signature620
09-01-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #14
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
Do they make a clutch alignment tool so you don't have to use an old input shaft?
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09-02-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #15
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
(09-01-2019 )tree98 Wrote:  Do they make a clutch alignment tool so you don't have to use an old input shaft?

Yes they are out there
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09-05-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #16
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
How did this job go for you?

I just finished up putting a clutch and transmission in mine. The fumblehead shop I paid $120/hr to put the clutch in it 2 years ago didn't put the input shaft bearing cover on right. They had it turned so the return oil gallery was not in the right place. This cause the bearing to go bad and wiped out the pilot bearing. Clutch and pedal rattled something fierce. The best I can tell is they decided being able to read Eaton on the cover at 12 o'clock was more important than the oil flowing through the bearing properly. Glad I paid hard earned money for that... Never again if I have any say in it.
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 Thanks given by: Rawze , Hammerhead , redbeard
09-06-2019, (Subject: Clutch replacement 870 without help ) 
Post: #17
RE: Clutch replacement 870 without help
(09-05-2019 )Chamberpains Wrote:  How did this job go for you?

I just finished up putting a clutch and transmission in mine. The fumblehead shop I paid $120/hr to put the clutch in it 2 years ago didn't put the input shaft bearing cover on right. They had it turned so the return oil gallery was not in the right place. This cause the bearing to go bad and wiped out the pilot bearing. Clutch and pedal rattled something fierce. The best I can tell is they decided being able to read Eaton on the cover at 12 o'clock was more important than the oil flowing through the bearing properly. Glad I paid hard earned money for that... Never again if I have any say in it.

Wow what shame, that's exactly why I'm forced to do this one myself. I honestly don't have the time to do it but what choice do I have? To answer your question, I haven't started on it yet.
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