New Cummins owner, intro and inquiry

[Camstyn]

Hi all! I found this site from doing some google searches, as I just bought a used 05 KW with an ISX.

A little about myself, I am an owner-operator running western Canada pulling super-B's, which is roughly 140,000lbs GVW to my American friends. I run most of my miles in BC, which is very mountainous, and I am loaded 120-140,000lbs for 95% of my operating miles.

I've always been a Cat guy, I've owned a couple of 2007 Peterbilts with 625hp Acert's, and currently own 2014 Peterbilts both with the Paccar 500/1850 engines. They actually pull this kind of weight surprisingly well for a 13L, not in the league of a 550hp Cummins or D16 Detroit, but they hold their own against a 485-500 ISX.

I wasn't really looking to buy an older truck, but I found a real cherry of a 2005 KW W900L. It's been garage kept, slipper driven, and is spec'd for my kind of work other than the rear ends (3.55 DSH40P's) with a 565, 18spd, 2050 torque clutch and SPL250XL driveline. I've bought a set of 46's with 3.91's for it from a wrecked low mile 2012 attached to the same AG400 suspension, which should make this a great stump puller, ideal for my kind of work.

Any who, about the engine. It's got 1,080,000km's, never been inframed. It had the head replaced under warranty at some point, and cam followers/jake heads were done not too long ago, if I understood correctly. I got the truck at a great price or I wouldn't have bought it, so that being said, I'm prepared to do an inframe any time if necessary. Obviously I hope that will be later rather than sooner, but I'm ready.

I'd like to do a mandate, and any other little tricks that might be good for this engine. I don't need or really care about having a 700hp, I'm more than happy with 550+, I'm more interested in fuel economy and reliability. What would you folks suggest, where should I start? I brought it home yesterday, it's currently at the shop waiting for my new axles to show up. I'm hoping to be putting it to work next week, so I can pull my 2014 and put it up for sale.

I've read a lot on here about why to beware of the big delete companies, the info is very compelling and I am going to definitely listen to it. Where do we start? It sounds like there are a couple of very highly recommended forum members on here, how do I get in touch with them for a custom tune, etc.?

Thanks in advance!:big_smile2:
Cam

[Wiseman]

As far I know , Unilevers is geographically close to you then Gearhead. Distance doesn't matter if you do it remotely. Rawze can do it to , but you have to go to GA.
You can PM and get in touch with them . They'll guide you what to do .
I see you've read something here but that's not enough. You have a lot more reading to do about CM870 and anything else . Needless to say you have to pull at least valve cover off and see what's inside, check turbo , be sure exhaust back pressure tube isn't clogged and whole other things. Get inline5/6 and Insite, dedicated laptop with windows 7 (preferably) , and so one. The more mechanically inclined you're the better . The more you learn the better . The more common sense you have the priceless.
Hope this will get you started .

P.S. Don't ever get fooled how the truck looks on the outside/inside! And where's been kept ! Even records !
Only upon thorough inspection you can see exactly what's ahead and plan accordingly.

[Camstyn]

Thanks Wiseman, I have a lot to learn about these engines. I look forward to getting everything checked off for piece of mind and having a good running machine without all of the SCR nonsense. I know these engines aren't as simple as a N14 but seems a lot more serviceable than the new units. The thought of my warranty running out on my new ones makes my stomach turn.

[Waterloo]

First thing, do the overhead. And I would also think seriously of replacing the damper, unless you know it has been replaced recently. Cummins recommends every 500,000 miles as they do wear out. The viscous fluid in them hardens over time and renders them useless. If not replaced, they can actually blow apart. There were photos here somewhere of one that had done just that. Unfortunately, there is no way to physically inspect them. The only reason I caught mine is due to the fact it started taking out my components and pulleys. I would replace it if you have no history on it, as it is cheaper than alternators, AC compressors, pulleys, belts and the big one, the tow bill.

[Hammerhead]

(07-06-2016 )Waterloo Wrote:  First thing, do the overhead. And I would also think seriously of replacing the damper, unless you know it has been replaced recently. Cummins recommends every 500,000 miles as they do wear out. The viscous fluid in them hardens over time and renders them useless. If not replaced, they can actually blow apart. There were photos here somewhere of one that had done just that. Unfortunately, there is no way to physically inspect them. The only reason I caught mine is due to the fact it started taking out my components and pulleys. I would replace it if you have no history on it, as it is cheaper than alternators, AC compressors, pulleys, belts and the big one, the tow bill.

By the sounds of it if your replacing the rears to work properly for your job, you will have no trouble popping the valve cover and doing a quick overhead valve & injector set your self. If you haven't yet, sign up for a Quickserve.cummins.com account and enter your engine S/N. The service manual is available online in that format and it will tell you step by step how to do anything, including your own inframe! You can also look up your own part numbers to order parts easily and check parts for the most recent change up part or part number. Invaluable tool.
Very good suggestion Waterloo. I just did my damper at the same km's as the OP and wow did it make a difference. I seriously wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't done it.
FYI OP, I just bought a Vibratech from Artic Truck Parts in Edm for CDN$718.00.
DO NOT talk to them about your motor, they are a Big Name Delete dealership for the one right off I-15 just before you get into NV, but they stock good dampers.
Unilevers is one province east of you, just north of Red Deer. He's a straight shooter.
If you're mechanically inclined and like to do your own work like I do, you can't go wrong getting an Inline & a laptop with Insite.
If you ever happen to be around W Edm and need help, drop me a line as that's whe I'm located and I'll help with anything I can if I'm around...
BTW, I've had my truck since new, and have learned more about this motor in the last six months to year since finding Rawze's videos on YouTube and then this site. You are in the right place man!

[Camstyn]

That is great stuff, thanks! I PM'd Unilevers tonight. I go through Red Deer all the time, in fact that is where I found/bought this truck. Will be passing through there in a couple hours!

[Camstyn]

Well I haven't set myself up with an Inline or Insite yet, but registered for Quickserve. I see what you mean, that is a great database for us owner ops!

The truck is in good hands right now, at a great central Alberta shop getting massaged by the boys, care of Unilevers. They replaced the main bearings, turbo, shimmed the oil pump, put on a new Vibratech dampener, PukeDits intake manifold, and a few other odds and ends including taking care of the wonderful mandate. I had the pleasure of meeting Unilevers today, he's a great guy as are everyone I met at his shop. I should be under way tomorrow afternoon with a better than new engine. The peace of mind is priceless knowing that everything is in tip top condition and should be a great worker.

I've never been a Cummins guy but I am coming around, I have a good feeling about it. If I hadn't found this place who knows how things would have turned out, I likely would have ended up at a 3 letter butcher shop going down the wrong path.

This place is priceless, can't thank you all enough!

[Brock]

The Alberta connection is strong in this post.......

[preacherboy24]

I would consider rods and mains. After watching Rawzes video and seeing the condition of his liners I borescoped mine. I still have cross hatching in mine. My rods and mains were in need of replacement after 800k. If your not burning oil do the mandate removal with a little tweak with the fuel and turbo tables.....Unililevers can do that over the internet. I would consider doing the bubble test with the actuator block to see how the injectors are doing too. Lookup Rawzes video on that. I get no less than 6mpg with my truck loaded. You need to kill the gears in that thing.....weight+mountains does not equal 355...lol. I am seriously considering removing my VG on my ISX because its air actuated and the three main components on that are more expensive than one brand new HX55. I have been hearing that you loose jake power but you dont loose on performance. The option is out there and I will keep the forum posted on the progress. You have a good engine but you need to tilt the hood and eat lunch with it.....its a crybaby.