Electrical problems

[Pro Star Cummins]

Need some guidance to fix electrical problems.
The city horn and air horn,jake brake,quit working.
The tractor abs light and traction control lights
Are lit and some dash cluster lights don't work . The
Patel buttons on steering wheel don't work .
Cruise doesn't work , it did work before but always threw a
Intermittent fault code . We always could clear code,but it
Would return. We also cleared abs light with DLB , but this
Comes back. Pulled on wires , checked fuses, can't see any
Bare wires. Can cruise control switch cause these problems?
I'm thinking it must be switches in steering wheel pad.
Is there a way to check them ?
Any help would be appreciated . Thanks

[Waterloo]

You need to take the truck to the dealer and see what they pull up on Diamond Logic... I had the same issues, it was my compass... Yes, the compass. The compass is a canbus module in your fuse block area... The dealer should be able to figure this out in less than a minute or two. If it is the compass module, the dealer will want around $400 for it... I found a new one on eBay for $20 delivered. It fixed my problem

[kmk]

Use dlb to check the operation of the systems in question, you can manually turn them on or off. Body controller connectors get corrosion inside them, pull them out, you might have to repin them. Check the harnesses and the connectors going to your cluster. Since you have dlb, check your signals, if you are getting errors bn analog and digital suspect corrosion or bdc issues. Most signals are extremely low voltage and even a small amt of corrosion can cause failure of the kind you are describing.

[Rawze]

Ghost problems, lights that flash in the cluster or other panels, or at the window controls, issues with A/C, dash cluster acting up, accel pedal, various cab controller issues, and other things just acting funny on Prostars and Lonestars ...

(on my own truck)...
All my steering wheel controls on my prostar quit working a while back. Truck ran just fine but thing would act crazy, occasional ABs, etc. Cruise and Air and City horn would not work either. It was exactly like clock spring in steering wheel was bad. - Ohmmeter and load test on all wiring through it was good.


Turns out that the cab controller thought the truck ignition switch was in the "Cranking" position nonstop although it was not. Truck ran fine outside of little problems.


(The underlying problems with these types of failures)...
The cause was a tarnished fuse in the main fuse panel. Fuse was perfectly good, but was allowing voltage to one circuit to be a bit low. Took forever to find. - After I found it, i replaced ALL fuses that were old and had slightly tarnished blades. All problems went away.
===

update 03-06-2017...

My entire dash just went crazy. All air gauges went dead, turn signals went dead, headlights only work with windshield wipers,.. but wipers are dead!, Beep beep, beep low air warnings! - drive you crazy! -- Again--- Tarnished fuses in the panel! - As soon as i replaced them, all started working again!. - I ended up buying better brand of fuses this time instead of the typical truck stop garbage.

Here is a picture of the fuses that like to give these problems. It is All of the smaller ones only. The fuses were good, but the blades were slightly discolored! --

   

Also, don't forget about the fact that Prostars leak at the top of the cab badly from the factory... ALL of them do this. I mention it here in more detail...
http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...2#pid16882


-- and if anyone needs the wiring diagrams for their Prostar, here is where they are listed on Navistar's website:
http://bodybuilder.navistar.com/General/BBcircuitIX.htm

Tags:

prostar fuses, prostar tarnished fuses, prostar electrical problems, prostar no cruise, prostar no flashers, 5 amp fuses, prostar wiring problems, prostar wiring, prostar cruise

[redtick]

Take a digital volt meter and take a voltage reading with the truck running (lights and heater fan on) at these points. At the battery post, at the positive post of the alternator and then at the fuse block. If there is voltage drop at the fuse block, move the ground lead from the volt meter to the frame of the truck and observe the voltage. Any change, look to the grounding system of the cab and frame. If there is not a change, look to the cab power feed.

The older Internationals had a brass stud that passed thru the firewall and it would corrode in the fuse panel. The stud could be removed for cleaning along with fuse feed bar. Not sure how the ProStar is setup.

[Chamberpains]

Redtick what older Internationals are you speaking of? I've got a 9400i that has a tendancy to have some really crazy electrical problem when its freezing out. I know its water and ice getting in something but I can't find where. Common places may nartow my search.

[Delly876]

Electrical problem

I'm a owner operator for 3 years in Canada, I have run into a real bad issue with my truck. It's a 2008 international 990i, with a isx engine, "mandate". The issue is! The truck keep shutdown sporadically when driving. The gauges will go in the 360 degree position, and stick there, untill you cycle the ignition switch. All the light in the dashboard will quickly turn off in the process, but within couple seconds will gain back current, And you can start back the truck immediately.

I have take this truck to several Mechanic shops including the dealer to have it repaired, they can't fix the problem, leave me into thousands of dollars in repair depth.

Some of the parts they change.
Fuel sensor
3 different ECM
Ignition switch
Battery terminals. Ect.

When they connect there computer to the truck the reading that the computer gives! Lost of ignition source to ECM. Thx.

The problem started when my alternator wire break off, the shop sader back the wire to the alternator. From then my truck is broken. I need your help to get this truck restore.

[Chamberpains]

Sounds like your losing power or ground to the ECM or ignition circuit. I'm assuming they cleaned and replaced the fuses, terminals and fuse holders at the battery box. Did anyone go over the connections at the starter? Often times these will work loose, be busted up or corroded. If they all check out, it may be time to get really dirty and pull the wire from the battery box all the way to the front of the truck and ECM down and have a good look at them. There is probably a broken wire somewhere barely making connection.

Another place to check for good connection is in the firewall passthrough connectors. There will be round ones on the driver side firewall and rectangular ones on the passenger side (held in with a 1/4" head screw in the middle) pull those off and make sure all the pins are in good shape and none are recessed or pushed to far in to make a good connection. Also pull on the wires to see if maybe you have a broken one inside the weather packing.

[Waterloo]

There should be an inline fuse somewhere in the wire that powers your ECM, has that been replaced? And it may be worth the few minutes time to just run a new wire from the batteries to the ECM. Don't bother running through the body and all of that at first, just go direct from the battery box to the ECM and see if that fixes the problem... My buddy had similar problems with his 9900, that new wire fixed it and the first thing that came to my mind when reading your post.