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JimT · 01-16-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

I have a 2012 Pete 587 and a couple unrelated questions.

First off I finally got me a glowshift boost gauge, getting ready to install it in a day or so. Watched Rawze's installation video and was wondering if anyone has any advice as to a good location to tap into for the wiring on this tractor? Any other tips from people with similar trucks?

Second, got a lube/oil/filter PM done the yesterday at TA and the tech said the only issue he found was clay in the carrier bearing. I was like, what? Clay? No, no, no, Play. Oh, ok... So it's very minimal but looks like it's time to address that. So, 2 questions...

1) does anyone know, or know how I can find out, the correct parts to get? Peterbilt is usually more expensive then anywhere else, but they also don't like to give out part info. There's a fleet pride nearby but they can't usually look up parts without the numbers. Haven't felt any vibration yet so I should have time to shop around for the best deal.

2) what other parts do I need to replace besides the bearing? I saw ppl mention the Pinion Nut, anything else?

3) what other parts should be serviced at the same time?

I'm still fairly new to servicing my own truck. The biggest hurdles have been identifying and sourcing parts and learning the proper procedures to follow. Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!

Brock · 01-17-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

When you lay on your back and press the driveshaft up, does the carrier bearing move out of the carrier? Or is it solid?

Waterloo · 01-17-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

Well, get that fixed asap if there is excessive play, I had mine fail, thank God in a parking lot... If I would have been driving, that would have been a mess. It felt like someone nailed 2x4's to my drive tires. If that driveshaft cuts lose, the damage can be catastrophic. Just ask Rawze. If you have any question on that carrier failing, fix it NOW! Do not drive the truck. Mine was fine, and then BOOM! No warning.

I had to have the truck towed to a shop, I could not drive it, where we discovered not only the bad carrier bearing but the u-joints were toast too, even though they would take grease. It was a $2200 job, redid the entire driveline, sent the drive shafts out to check for balance and one had to have the yoke removed as I had a bit of lot rot, it was not coming out using normal methods. If that truck of yours sat for awhile, you may be experiencing the same, lot rot.

For that carrier, FleetPride should have one, then on mine, there is a one time use crush washer behind the yoke, along with the nut at the yoke on that front diff. The torque values are stupid, like 900 ftlb. I have the Meritor driveline, not sure what unit you have, but that is something you should ask about. I take that stuff to the shop.

Recently I had the that pinion seal go on me, I bought the parts and made sure everything was replaced with new, the washer, nut and seals. I found the seals at the dealer and the rest at FleetPride, both carried the Meritor brand parts, I won't install knock off parts in these critical areas.

And if that dealer will not give you part numbers, find another one to deal with.

JimT · 01-17-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

The tech said the play was not much, but any play was bad. I should have asked him if he knew the brand. I'll be under the truck in a couple hours and see if can figure it out and doubek check the play. Haven't called around anywhere yet for parts or prices as this forum has become my first source for information. Watched a few videos on replacing it and I should have all the tools needed. Also learned the do's and don'ts (especially the don'ts). I just trust this forum to share better information than other internet sources and to go above and beyond the bare minimums, which is my philosophy too. I tend to spend significantly more time researching something before actually doing the work and it has helped a lot. So that's where I am right now, gathering info so I can (hopefully) do it right the first time.

hhow55 · 01-17-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

Maybe a pic would help fleetpride?

Riderivas45 · 01-17-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

Hey JimT. When I stalled my gauges I pulled power and the headlight switch from another existing gauge it had space for another jumper harness so I tapped into there. And i took ignition from my radio and i grounded it on a separate screw.

JimT · 01-21-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

(01-17-2020 )Riderivas45 Wrote: Hey JimT. When I stalled my gauges I pulled power and the headlight switch from another existing gauge it had space for another jumper harness so I tapped into there. And i took ignition from my radio and i grounded it on a separate screw.

Good info, thanks. I now have a right weigh gauge coming in a week and I'll be adding more gauges in the future, so i might just look into adding something to the fuse block that can support everything. Hopefully keep it clean, I hate having lots of splices that could cause problems down the line.

Waterloo · 01-21-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

You will love that right weigh gauge... Did you get two, one for the trailer and one for the drives? Or just the drives? Even with one, they are a life saver.

JimT · 01-21-2020, **(Subject: Clay in the carrier... )**

(01-21-2020 )Waterloo Wrote: You will love that right weigh gauge... Did you get two, one for the trailer and one for the drives? Or just the drives? Even with one, they are a life saver.

I only got one for the drives. I don't own the trailer, so I can't (or shouldn't) modify it. Its a spread axle 48' flatbed and I'm pretty good at spreading the weight without using a scale. This is just to prevent the tractor from going overweight and to experiment with finding the optimal spread for fuel economy. Although, I don't usually run heavy and now that I have the gauge I'll probably find only light loads :P