Code 1894 Now what?

[farmer70]

      What’s the first thing to do now that I know I have a code 1894? 2016 ISX 500 cm 2350. Check engine light came on once yesterday and once today. Paid a local shop $50 to read my codes. After he did that the truck cleared codes and shows no active faults on the message screen. Thanks in advance! I really appreciate all your guy’s advice. Can I take the top off and look in the actuator?

[JimT]

I'll assume this is a continuation of the troubleshooting from this thread.

So, you now know that the Accelerator pedal was the cause of your stop engine light.

Looks like your turbo and/or actuator might be the source of your popping sounds.

(01-18-2020 )farmer70 Wrote:  I’ve got a 2017 389 with ISX500 2350. I just bought it and am trying to figure it out. The just put new batteries in my truck before I bought it. Sometimes when I turn the key to start it it acts like the batteries are low or dead but I keep holding the key and it starts just fine. I’m guessing I need to go through and tighten all battery connections.

Right after I got loaded for the first time I was driving down an unfamiliar road and got caught around some curves by surprise any way the truck got shifted into neutral with the jakes on. The stop engine light came on. Twice I think then it went off but exhaust system fault light stayed on until the next day and then went out on its own.

A few days later I get the check engine light on going down the road it flashes goes out exhaust fault light goes on stays lit until next day., But just a few minutes after this happens I hear this sound coming from the engine compartment sounds like popping popcorn I pull up to a stop sign and the sound seems to go away when I set the brakes to check out the sound.

Last night I got loaded was leaving the plant and missed a gear or something odd I can’t really say what happened the check engine light comes on exhaust system fault indicator lamp lights up check engine light flashes again goes out. Could this all be low voltage? Also had the popcorn popping sound randomly a couple of different times it seems to quit when the truck quits moving. Sometimes you just have to put up with crap until effs up enough that you can figure it out. I think something not really serious is making my engine throw these codes but I have no idea where to begin looking. The popcorn popping sound I have no idea any guess? Right before I got my trailer loaded to leave plant last night I changed out my imap sensor also changed the Delta P sensor the other day.

Based on your original description along with the codes listed, I would still investigate possible electrical problems. I would particularly look into some common wiring harness or ground that they all might share. If you log in to quickserve you can bring up a wiring diagram for you engine, then check to see if those components are on the same harness. Go around and clean all your ground points. Check all the battery connections, make sure they aren't loose. Follow all the wires from the battery and all around the engine, look for anything that might be rubbing and shorting out.

There are also troubleshooting step in insite or quickserve for each of the fault codes, look them up and start following the steps.

[farmer70]

(01-28-2020 )JimT Wrote:  I'll assume this is a continuation of the troubleshooting from this thread.

So, you now know that the Accelerator pedal was the cause of your stop engine light.

Looks like your turbo and/or actuator might be the source of your popping sounds.

(01-18-2020 )farmer70 Wrote:  I’ve got a 2017 389 with ISX500 2350. I just bought it and am trying to figure it out. The just put new batteries in my truck before I bought it. Sometimes when I turn the key to start it it acts like the batteries are low or dead but I keep holding the key and it starts just fine. I’m guessing I need to go through and tighten all battery connections.

Right after I got loaded for the first time I was driving down an unfamiliar road and got caught around some curves by surprise any way the truck got shifted into neutral with the jakes on. The stop engine light came on. Twice I think then it went off but exhaust system fault light stayed on until the next day and then went out on its own.

A few days later I get the check engine light on going down the road it flashes goes out exhaust fault light goes on stays lit until next day., But just a few minutes after this happens I hear this sound coming from the engine compartment sounds like popping popcorn I pull up to a stop sign and the sound seems to go away when I set the brakes to check out the sound.

Last night I got loaded was leaving the plant and missed a gear or something odd I can’t really say what happened the check engine light comes on exhaust system fault indicator lamp lights up check engine light flashes again goes out. Could this all be low voltage? Also had the popcorn popping sound randomly a couple of different times it seems to quit when the truck quits moving. Sometimes you just have to put up with crap until effs up enough that you can figure it out. I think something not really serious is making my engine throw these codes but I have no idea where to begin looking. The popcorn popping sound I have no idea any guess? Right before I got my trailer loaded to leave plant last night I changed out my imap sensor also changed the Delta P sensor the other day.

Based on your original description along with the codes listed, I would still investigate possible electrical problems. I would particularly look into some common wiring harness or ground that they all might share. If you log in to quickserve you can bring up a wiring diagram for you engine, then check to see if those components are on the same harness. Go around and clean all your ground points. Check all the battery connections, make sure they aren't loose. Follow all the wires from the battery and all around the engine, look for anything that might be rubbing and shorting out.

There are also troubleshooting step in insite or quickserve for each of the fault codes, look them up and start following the steps.

Yes this is a continuation. I guess I’m too dense to understand why the truck clears the codes to read no faults found. So do you think the Turbo and actuator are possibly going out or could the fault be caused by electrical problems?

[JimT]

(01-28-2020 )farmer70 Wrote:  Yes this is a continuation. I guess I’m too dense to understand why the truck clears the codes to read no faults found. So do you think the Turbo and actuator are possibly going out or could the fault be caused by electrical problems?

typically whoever reads the codes will then clear them out when they are done.

some of the troubleshooting steps for the turbo code will include checking the electrical. But I suggest that you also check the other parts of the system that I listed. There is also a (small) chance that the ECM could be the source of the problem, however you need to do ALL the other troubleshooting first before considering the ECM.

You gave 3 examples where these issues appeared together while driving. You also mentioned that the batteries were replaced just before you bought it. There's a good chance that there is an electrical issue that caused the old batteries to become weak or bad and you are only seeing some of the symptoms right now as you drive, turn and hit bumps.

Take the time, go through the steps one by one, eliminating possibilities until you find the cause(s).

[Lonestar10]

watch some of "south main auto"'s electrical diagnostic videos youll learn that even though the computers saying a part is a the problem most of the time its not but you need to get into some laborish electrical diagnostics to find the problem. the benefit you have over him is hes working on cars where all the components are smashed into a 5sq ft box called and engine bay where most all your electrical is out in the open. but he shows how to check communication twisted pairs, 5v references and all sorts of other electrical. take into consideration one of his biggest things that shows you might be able to get voltage on a wire but if suppose to be able to carry current he uses a 3.6amp headlight and probes in and sees if it lights up. a test light is only something like 350-700 miliamps and is much easier for a circuit to light up.

[JimT]

(01-28-2020 )Lonestar10 Wrote:  watch some of "south main auto"'s electrical diagnostic videos

His videos are great. South Main Auto Repair
"And just remember viewers, If I can do it, you can do it"

[farmer70]

I was looking at Insite they are all voltage related. Thanks for your reply!

[Moose]

(01-28-2020 )farmer70 Wrote:  I guess I’m too dense to understand why the truck clears the codes to read no faults found.

The truck doesn't 'clear' the code per say... The OEM side display is programmed to just annunciate any active codes present in the ECM. If they "go away" on the dash it just means they have gone inactive. All the inactive codes remain in the fault code history inside the ECM until they are reset with insite.

[farmer70]

So it can be inactive and everything will work ok? But if it is something really serious it will stay active? That code about the DEF unit was weird because it was full of DEF truck was bumped up to about 1100 rpm and out of nowhere the DEF light inside the DEF gauge comes on, the message center screen says DE RATE eminent. It was cold that night I wonder if it had something to do with that?