Primary fuel filter

[tree98]

(02-18-2020 )MAScontractingllc Wrote:  Thanks for the quick response

We don't have the Davco only the factory Paccar filter
We are using 10 micron fleetguard filters in the Paccar housing

When he said that, I assumed we were talking about only a spin on filter and no pre filter at all. Disregard what I said about you filter micron being too big. 10 and 4 is correct.

[Rawze]

Southwire loads, we take em all the time out of Kentucky, they deliver in carrolton,GA.. -- Those loads make the total gross weight of the truck 78,677(last cat-scale ticket)lb. They take my truck through the Tennessee foot-hills, and over Mt.eagle. Then down thru Atlanta traffic, and out 20west. <- of the hundreds of times we have taken this ~450-ish mile run, My truck has yet to break anything below 8.3 mpg to the pumps on it. - we are quite often in the 8.6-8.9 mpg range on em tho.

-- I'll take slowing down a bit and better driving habits over "run, run,run" any day of the week. I don't like working on my truck and buying replacement parts because I beat it to death, and I don't like whatsoever giving away fuel money.

I have yet to see anyone who drives the way I do that does not make a decent profit/paycheck, has constant headaches and problems, and/or is fighting with themselves, their truck problems, the system as a whole, or even the traffic on the roads.

But I have seen thousands who struggle, can't stay on top of their problems, loose their truck or business, around every corner is that unexpected engine failure, has problems at home because they can't make enough pay to keep the family happy, and all sorts of "struggle-mode" issues .. who drive and do the "run,run,run" mentality... they all think that one extra load for the week is with the fast-paced go,go mode and they all seem to never look past their own noses at the overall picture that it REALLY IS NOT WORTH IT! when it comes right down to it.

-- I know of more than a few people in this area that haul containers and in/out of the rail yards.. They do just fine taking one less load for the week, going 55-60~ish mph, and take home/keep in their pockets a lot more money home at the end of the year than all their peers.

[MAScontractingllc]

Thanks Chamberpains....I appreciate the time you took to read and understand where I'm coming from

Your correct I'm always looking for ways to spend more time at home (not in the shop)

Yes I'm learning the old ways of getting up to speed fast burns more fuel then keeping those rpm's down when getting up to speed....I'm stuck in the 90's la la land turn it up hammer down....It's sad to see the good old days of trucking aren't coming back nor is the "tougher equipment" Then again neither are paper logs LOL

Old habits are hard to break especially when I want to get home lol....I'll definitely will keep my foot out of it and do some calculations on how to save more money and less wear and tear

[Rawze]

(02-19-2020 )MAScontractingllc Wrote:  ...
keeping those rpm's down when getting up to speed
...

low rpm (much below 1500) + foot half way or more to the floor results in a very shortened engine life. Especailly on the model engine you own.


Install a boost gauge, your next important move (should have been done the day you got the truck), and use it / practice some better driving habits that yield less wear and tear and headache, more long term profit.

This means - DRIVE BY YOUR BOOST GAUGE!, and as well, start by limiting your boost overall to only 20 psi or so,..and over time, work your way down to only allowing the truck to make 15 lbs or so by better and better driving habits. - YOUR WALLET will thank you later.

That truck cannot get out of itys own way at 3.36 rears .. especially if you try to drive it the right ways for high profitability... HENCE:

Find a set of used rears to throw into that thing, keep the RPM up at 1550-1650 when your at 15+ or more on the boost gauge, and only use below 1400 when your making less than 10 lbs boost. (why my earlier statement about your geared all wrong for what you do).

It is also not so much that 10-speed tranny you mentioned. That is secondary, and unless it fails and needs replacement, there will be no justification / return on cost/investment for replacing it that you can get back with any gains of profitability.


Is a person in business to make money?- and maximize their long term (money they keep) profitability? --- OR are they in business to burn up the highways, and work themselves and their equipment as hard as they can so that all the extra efforts make them think they are getting somewhere?-- because THOSE 2 THINGS ARE NOT THE SAME! -- and typically are NOT compatible either.

THIS MODERN EQUIPMENT we are subject to use these days,.. they are not made for the "run hard' scenario any more... those days are like you say... long, long gone.. and those trucks that can do so need to be in a museum somewhere. <-- this new stuff is made for a very low profit margin. It can make a damn decent paycheck just nicely if a person just learns how to work with it and disciplines themselves towards higher profit margin instead of simply trying to eat more miles.

So if you want to push against something with all your might and vigor .. use this effort to Push against those fuel mileage numbers, especially in the low-rent market your in, not your miles. - Figure out how to factor that in as heavily as possible and you will start to see some eventual daylight at the end of that tunnel.

-- As far as de-mandating it goes... yes you will absolutely have a cleaner running engine, yes your fuel mileage may go up (depends on how clogged, unhealthy the system is tho), and several other benefits.

DO I RECOMMEND IT?=-== I am not able to, NOR is it legal for anyone to tell you to do so! -- A person has to make their own choice on that one, as it is not legal if you live in an epa regulated country.. but I blame no-one for doing so, that I leave completely up to them to make that decision.

and if you do go this route...
-- WHATEVER YOU DO -- DO IT RIGHT -- THAT IS THE HARD PART -- BECAUSE THERE ARE WAAY TOO FEW PEOPLE WHO CAN ACTUALLY DO IT RIGHT!. There are delete shops around every corner, and hundreds and hundreds with more than fancy eye-catching websites all across the internet -- all talk a good game,.. all have those testimonials and the like, fancy trucks and false promises, ... BUT in all reality -- there are ONLY about 4 or 5 in total in the entirety of the north American continent that even get it close to being reliably right. - that is the reality of it,and YES, I see hundreds and hundreds every year, as I openly and freely review any custom (or delete) programming someone has had done to their truck to ensure it is safe for the enigne, simply because I do not want to see yet another failed and destroyed trucking career and engine over it.. <- Someone need to show how bad this problem really is, I happen to be one of them who understands all this stuff with an unbiased honest opinion on what is seen out here, as everything I do it for free. There is no gain in it whatsoever in it for me at all.. I am semi-retired and make my money with my truck, and not by telling people where(or who) to go to or what to do, one person vs another.


So... DO NOT EVEN CONSIDER having anyone touch that engine or truck when it comes to this, unless it is someone recommended directly by this forum, or you will be nothing but another one of the thousands of victims that got taken advantage of in the end. - here a running list of some of these victims if your curious: http://rawze.com/forums/showthread.php?t...5#pid13255

btw: MM programming is avail for it, that is what is recommended (or a very close variation of it that is up to date and is the latest version), for the 2350. It is just not going to be found on the inter-webs is all.

Like others mentioned...

forum memebrs..
'Mommaburt', 'Unilevers', perhaps a trip to Mr-Hags shop, where he goes all out and ensures the whole truck is right,
,.. (or possibly 'running rough', thou I think his prices are too high for what he is doing).

[Mattman]

Do you change your fuel filter at 1500 miles and then your power comes back?

What does the filter look like when you change it?

I recall reading something about a sight reduction in power if you don't fill def tank when you fill fuel tank. Others will know know more than I about this.

[MAScontractingllc]

Thanks Rawze for your replies...My wife and I appreciate all that you do for all the members on here ....

That last post put a smile on my face BIG TIME...... we're on the same page.....

The fuel filter comes out fairly black...however not slimy when I rub my fingers across the pleats

Yes the power and boost do come back with a new filter

Very interesting that you bring up the DEF.... I've always just filled it up every other time but it appears I'm going through more of this fluid recently (maybe I should always top off?)

Can you tell me (or forward me a link) how to look on regen numbers in insight? I'm still trying to learn all of the functions of it

I did follow Rawze's video on the injector leak down test that came back with really good numbers

[Lonestar10]

if you can find a vendor with cheap boxes/jugs of DEF use that the pump def tends to get contaminated alot that then starts screwing up the def systems.

[Mattman]

You did say your fuel tanks are clean??

I run my fuel filters, same filters as you are using 15,000 miles. I have a fuel filter restriction gauge in the dash, don't think I have seen it get over like 4.
Sounds like you have dirty tanks or are getting for fuel.

Cheapest place I have found for DEF in the box is at Atwood's it's like a tractor supply or rural king store. Think it is 6.99 for 2.5gallon jug.
With that being said I haven't had any troubles with def at the fuel pump.

[JimT]

Since DEF was mentioned I'd like to remind people that the DEF filter also needs to be changed out regularly.

----

Which biocide do you use? There are different things to treat for and some biocides work better on some than others.

Here's a great article on the subject. Not a highly detailed test setup, but the conclusion helps clear up what the results were.
https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-ma...-boat-fuel

This article is a bit more scientific and the products are mostly availble in the UK, but still an interesting read (well, I found it interesting, not everyone will share my opinion).
https://www.pbo.co.uk/gear/12-diesel-bug...sted-43353

I personally use BioborJF. It cleaned up my tanks when I first got the truck and I do a maintenance treatment every once in a while. Especially since its hard to avoid all the bio-diesel blends out here which help accelerate the growth. Supposedly BioborJF is not actually approved for use in on-highway vehicles. After some research I found that it has something to do with the EPA and pesticide and not about any kind of engine issue. So, I use it anyway. It works well but the dead biomass will clog up the filters quick so expect 2-3 short filter replacements before things return to normal.

I actually need to do a shock treatment. After my last filter change I filled up with the mandatory bio-diesel blend sold in CT and then truck sat for almost a month with that same fuel in the tank. Now after 4,000 miles the davco 10-micron filter turned black and the fuel is half way up the filter already. The previous filter had 25,000 miles on it before it needed to be replaced. Amazing how quickly it can change.